What’s more tiring, skiing, or hearing about skiing? Your wife’s been bragging about her Kootenay winter vacations for years … and winter’s here again. She keeps reminding you, “Last year it snowed two feet the week I went to Whitewater Mountain Resort!” Enough already. Next she’ll be on about how they kept the grassroots vibe even though they added a new lift in 2023, boosting to 3,247 skiable acres—and she still never crosses a track until noon on a powder day. 

Then there was the year she decided to start ticking off her “bucket list” and go cat skiing. And then again the next year when she went heli-skiing, because there are more backcountry operations around Kootenay Lake than anywhere else in the world, and the terrain is “unmatched.” This winter she wants to try ski touring, and you just know it’s going to be the same endless gloating at the end of each day. 

But that’s no reason to stay home. Spokane, along with its international airport, is only three hours from Nelson, and a winter vacation poses its own restorative effects, even if you’re not into skiing or snowboarding. Visiting the serene shores of Kootenay Lake is easier than getting to Mexico—plus, you won’t get a sunburn. Not to mention the Canadian peso is an all-time bargain right now. But what does a man of more discerning tastes do to keep occupied? 

Ever been to a hot spring in the winter? It’s the quintessential Kootenay way to unwind: soaking in the contrasting benefits of hot and cold. Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort is just a short trip up the road from Nelson, with developed pools that are a natural delight, and rejuvenating waters that work magic to peel back big-city stresses. 

A walking tour of Nelson is likewise especially storybook in winter, highlighted by Victorian architecture and dozens of curated murals. Getting around by foot is quick and quaint, offering time to escape into one of many warm independent bookstores, or dozens of cafés—many of which roast their own beans and are award winners. Locals here have coffee for blood. 

But maybe breweries are more your thing. There are three in Nelson, and one up in picturesque Kaslo, just an hour up the road. The slow, winding drive along Kootenay Lake is mesmerizing in the winter, with views of snowcapped mountains reflecting off a glassy lake that never fully freezes. You can also take the world’s longest free ferry across the lake to Balfour, for an extra scenic cruise. 

But if you don’t have a rental vehicle, because the frequent shuttles from Spokane are just as quick and easy and Nelson itself is decidedly walkable, you can still keep busy right in town. There are more restaurants per capita in the Queen City of the Kootenays (that’s Nelson) than even San Francisco and Manhattan. It’s a culinary scene that foodies around the world flock to, crammed into four ornate city blocks.

 

Only 30 minutes north of the Washington border, Nelson’s architecture is a throwback to the turn of the century: a mix of American-style Italianate brick façades reminiscent of old Seattle, and granite-blocked civic buildings with distinct Victorian influences. There are over 350 heritage buildings surrounding downtown’s Baker Street, all built between 1895 and 1924—edifices that make the town distinct in the Canadian Mountain West.  

Like the stately Nelson Museum, Archives & Gallery, which will take you back to the frontier years, as will a visit to the S.S. Moyie Sternwheeler up in Kaslo: the oldest intact passenger vessel of its kind in the world. While you’re up there, Kaslo’s Langham Cultural Centre showcases contemporary and traditional exhibits year-round: a cosmopolitan amenity in an impossibly cute village framed by diamond peaks overlooking a placid lake.  

Art’s also on tap all winter long at Nelson’s Oxygen Art Centre, as well as at a plethora of galleries and artisan studios. As the undisputed cultural capital of the Kootenays, there are always shows at the Capitol Theatre, featuring local and national talent, performing dance, theater and musicals. Music, by the way, pulses winterlong at venues like Bloom Nightclub and Spiritbar; Nelson is also a sleeper hub for electronic artists the world over. 

But if you want to keep it simple, there are, of course, plenty of pubs and that Canadian staple, the good, old hockey game. The Nelson Leafs are a Junior A championship team that seldom disappoints. Which is perfectly in keeping with the area at large. Not everybody loves sliding on snow, and we get that—but everybody loves winning. The wife might have just bagged her best day on snow ever, but visit Nelson and Kootenay Lake along with her and it’s bragging rights for all. 

Traveling to Nelson, BC, This Winter? 

Why Not Take the Shuttle? 

Skip the drive and hop on the Kootenay Charters shuttle servicing Nelson, Castlegar and Rossland direct from the Spokane Airport. For complete details on departure dates and times, just scan here. Book now at Kootenaycharters.com/spokanewintershuttle or reach out with questions at info@kootenayCharters.com or (250) 365-2871. 

The post How To Not Go Skiing in Nelson, BC  appeared first on Out There Venture.

A trip up to soak in the mineral-rich thermal pools at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort—north of Nelson, BC, along Kootenay Lake—is a routine pilgrimage for many Out There readers, and winter is an exceptionally magical time to visit. Sitting in the main 96-degree pool, wrapped in steam and gazing out at the snow-covered Purcell Mountains rising up from the lake is pure rejuvenation. A quick overnight trip up from Spokane for Ainsworth’s hot-springs cave and soaking pool is worth the drive all on its own, but the resort has much more to offer.  

The lake-view Ktunaxa Grill—named after the Ktunaxa First Nations whose traditional lands include a vast expanse of territory surrounding the resort—features an indigenous-inspired menu built around local ingredients. It’s a culinary experience that typically inspires repeat visits. Stay a night or two in one of the resort’s spacious, modern rooms or suites—each with hot springs access and guest-only hours—and you have yourself a full-on restorative getaway. But Ainsworth has one more surprise that elevates the whole experience.  

After a day on the slopes at nearby Whitewater or snowshoeing the river trails around Kaslo, few things beat a hot springs soak—except following it with a massage at Ainsworth’s on-site Spirit Water Spa. The spa offers Swedish, deep tissue and targeted massage work. Let skilled hands unwind tight quads or a worked-over back, giving your nervous system a full reset. The Spirit Water Spa also offers energy therapies, detoxifying clay applications and indulgent body wraps. Treatments are designed to complement time in the pools, pairing heat and minerals with whole-body relaxation.  

Ainsworth blends natural thermal relaxation, striking scenery and unpretentious resort comforts that will make any winter adventure in the Kootenays more memorable. Learn more or book your trip at Ainsworthhotsprings.com.

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The post Spirit Water and Winter Wellness in the Kootenays  appeared first on Out There Venture.

The hiking and backpacking possibilities in the mountains surrounding Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort would take years to fully explore, but here are a few favorites trails to get you started. For more options and detailed hike descriptions and maps, pick up a copy of the “West Kootenay Hiking” guidebook by Abby Wilson. 

Toad Mountain (Nelson area) 

5 miles roundtrip with 1,821 feet of elevation gain 

Hike a ridgeline with panoramic views over Nelson, Kootenay Lake and surrounding peaks.  

Kokanee Glacier Trail to Kaslo Lake & Glory Basin (Nelson area) 

13 miles roundtrip with 2,830 feet of elevation gain 

This Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park hike leads from the Gibson Lake Trailhead to Kaslo Lake, passing Kokanee and Garland lakes along the way.  

Jumbo Pass (Kaslo area) 

6.2 miles roundtrip with 2,625 feet of elevation gain 

Panoramic views of the Purcell Mountains and the Horseshoe Glacier reward hikers who take on this moderately challenging hike. The two-hour, dirt-road drive to the trailhead from Kaslo can make this a less-crowded option.  

Kaslo River Trail (Kaslo area) 

1.9 miles roundtrip with minimal elevation gain 

A scenic trail that winds along the Kaslo River right on the edge of town with interpretive signs, connections to other trails and river crossings on red-painted foot bridges.  

Sponsored

The post Recommended Hikes Near Ainsworth   appeared first on Out There Venture.

Cover photo courtesy of Kari Medig

There’s nothing quite like sliding into naturally heated mineral waters after a day out on the trail. At Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort north of Nelson, B.C., there are so many hiking options nearby that it makes an ideal destination for pairing of hikes and hot springs. 

Perched on the shores of Kootenay Lake, Ainsworth has been drawing visitors to its therapeutic waters for over a century, but it’s the surrounding mountains that transform a simple soak into an adventure paradise. The resort sits at the convergence of some of the Kootenays’ most spectacular hiking terrain, making it the ideal base camp for those who believe the best hot springs sessions are earned through sweat equity. 

Spend your days exploring alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers or navigating rocky ridgelines with views of the Purcells and Selkirks, then returning to the resort’s hot springs pools where the mineral water will work its magic on trail-weary limbs. Summer brings the region’s hiking season into full swing, with endless trails nearby. Whether you’re seeking gentle river strolls or challenging backcountry ascents, the diversity of terrain means you’ll find your ideal trail.  

For those who prefer to extend the experience beyond a day trip, the resort’s comfortable and modern on-site accommodations also come with extended guest-only soaking hours. The resort’s restaurant, the Ktunaxa Grill, serves locally-inspired meals all day with panoramic lake views. This is adventure travel at its best—where the journey rewards you not just with summit views and wildflower meadows, but with a restorative soak and chance to truly relax. Plan your trip at Ainsworthhotsprings.com. 

Sponsored

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Cover photo by Kari Medig Courtesy of Nelson Kootenay Lake Tourism

Looking to take your golf game to new heights this summer? Nestled between the water and the edge of the mountains, you’ll find five courses in the Nelson and Kootenay Lake region that make this the ultimate golfer’s getaway.  

If you’ve yet to visit our unique corner of British Columbia, you’re in for a treat. And if you’ve already visited, consider this our invitation to return and make new memories on the greens and off. After all, there’s more to a golf trip than just golfing (right?). You won’t find any tariffs to cross the border either, as our door is always open to our American neighbo(u)rs (it’s true, we still love “u”!).  

As the closest major city on either side of the border to Nelson, Spokane is an easy three-hour drive from the Kootenay Lake region. The mountains get bigger and closer as you head north, while even the speed limits seem greater (almost—it’s that sneaky miles-to-kilometers conversion).  

And although we can’t guarantee our holes are any longer than your local course, we can confidently say you’ll want to take an extra moment to pause and soak in the views. All five courses offer stunning views of Kootenay Lake and the surrounding mountains, including Granite Pointe Golf Club in Nelson. If there’s such a thing as a “mountain course,” surely this is it. Built on the edge of the hillside, holes climb and descend, following the hilly grade, while granite outcroppings dot the course, adding rugged appeal and the occasional hazard. The elevated vista is ideal for looking down the lake and the snow-capped summit of Grays Peak in Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park. 

Anchored by historic Baker Street, Nelson’s charming downtown offers plenty to see and do when you’re off the links. Independent shops and galleries are packed tightly along the main street, offering the best in brands, selection, and a friendly shopping experience. Many stores are located in colourful heritage buildings, while public art installations big and small add to the cosmopolitan cultural scene.   

Take your pick from three breweries or over a dozen cafes and bakeries with freshly baked goods and locally roasted beans. You’ll also find a surprisingly diverse selection of cuisines represented along with traditional North American fare. Whether it’s a steakhouse or a cozy sushi spot, Nelson’s food scene punches well above its weight. Good thing for that strong US dollar. 

Nelson offers a wide range of accommodations to put your feet up post-game (this is a vacation, right?). Book a waterfront room at the Prestige Lakeside Resort for the ultimate private patio experience. If a boutique heritage hotel is more your thing, stay at the historic Hume Hotel with multiple restaurants, including an outdoor summer beer garden on site. The Adventure Hotel is a downtown favourite for groups, while the Baker Street Inn, Savoy Hotel, Alpine Inn & Suites, Prestige Inn and Cloudside Hotel complement dozens of quality vacation homes in the area.  

Fancy a trip back in time? Hop aboard streetcar #23 along the shores of Kootenay Lake, a truly unique experience. The golf might draw you here, but the attractions and amenities will make you want to stay.  

A short 30-minute drive east is the highly rated Balfour Golf & Recreation course. This quiet gem serves up stunning views, well-maintained holes and quality food. The first half of the course takes advantage of the surprisingly level terrain. If that feels like a walk in the park, save your energy for the back half of the course, which rises and falls while incorporating twisting creeks and towering cedars. Saving the best for last, the course offers one of the best finishing stretches you’ll ever play.  

Half an hour north is Kaslo, one of the prettiest towns in Canada, and home to an inviting 9-hole course. Try not to get distracted by the towering Purcell Mountains or lofty lake views; you’ll need your attention for this short but challenging course.  

Relax on the patio or indoors in the impressive timber frame clubhouse, but save some time for exploring Kaslo’s other attractions, including the SS Moyie sternwheeler, beautiful nature paths and its bucolic downtown. And don’t miss a dip at Ainsworth Hot Springs. Halfway between Kaslo and Balfour, it’s the perfect way to soothe your body before another round. 

Returning to Balfour, you’ll cross Kootenay Lake on a scenic free ferry to reach the East Shore, home to two nearby golf courses. The Riondel Golf Club is a 9-hole executive par 30. Run by a non-profit, and with rates starting at $20 (Canadian!), it earns its feel-good reputation. 

Just down the road is Kokanee Springs Resort in the artisan community of Crawford Bay. The gorgeous course should be a bucket list trip for any golfer, and with accommodations and eateries on site, it’s worth staying a while. Whether it’s a short and sweet round or a “must do” 18-hole course, the East Shore will have you coming back for more.  

Even if your drive isn’t up to par, the route to get here certainly is. These five fantastic golf courses and friendly communities along Kootenay Lake are conveniently accessible from Spokane, offering the opportunity for a scenic loop drive. Whether you’re a first timer or a long timer, we’re excited to welcome you to our special corner of B.C.  

(Sponsored) 

The post Five Courses, One Epic Loop  appeared first on Out There Venture.

If you’ve never made the trek to ski in Nelson, B.C., you wouldn’t be the first. Tucked deep in the Selkirk Mountains, only 45 miles from the U.S. border, it’s more of a hideaway than a destination. But for those in the know, that’s the way they like it. Strewn with old-growth forests, diamond peaks, and deep, consistent powder, what makes Nelson stand out is how little it stands out. It’s never been a place to boast, quietly carrying on as the most dependable and holistic ski experience in Interior British Columbia for generations. 

Dubbed the Queen City of the Kootenays, Nelson was founded in 1886 during the late-19th century mining boom—when the hillsides above Kootenay Lake blossomed with Victorian architecture, and Chicago-inspired industrial brick façades lined the waterfront and downtown’s Baker Street. By the early 1900s, it was a little slice of mid-century America plunked in the depths of the Canadian frontier. And today it’s not much different. 

Nelson remains a quizzical outpost of metropolitan sensibilities in the middle of enduring wilderness, wrapped in dense, evergreen forest. Full of galleries, artisan shops, and theaters, the town, the culture, and the skiing have remained relatively free from the tides of over-development. Today, it’s the gateway to the most enduringly authentic ski culture there is. 

Off the Beaten Piste 

Whitewater Ski Resort is just 25 minutes up the road from Nelson, and the biggest little ski hill in Canada. With 2,367 skiable acres and 40 feet of annual snowfall, it has the stats to stand on the world stage, but a small, grassroots vibe that keeps it grounded and track free. Here you’ll find kind locals, soft landings and pow days that last a week at a time. Visit during the annual Kootenay Coldsmoke Powderfest (Feb. 20-23) for an iconic taste of local ski culture. Or earn your turns in the abundance of easily accessed ski-touring terrain, where the uptracks have their own rhythm and you can claim a little piece of the mountain all your own. 

Nelson and Kootenay Lake are also the cat-skiing capital of the world. Which makes perfect sense when you consider the deep, climate-resilient snowpack, and the enduring local tradition of backcountry. If you want to take your ambitions a step higher, you can also step into a helicopter, with multiple companies poised to bring you where alpine vistas consume the horizon and cedars the size of small buildings stretch out across endless empty glades. 

All-day Après 

With a history of hard work as the backbone of the region, locals know that good food is part of a good life, whether at the resort or in town. Whitewater’s kitchen has produced six award-winning cookbooks, and Nelson has more restaurants per capita than both San Francisco and Manhattan—almost all of them with their own Kootenay-infused take on global cuisine. But you can just as easily settle into the familiar comfort of a pub, or the all-night energy of the renowned music scene that draws performers and artists from around the world. Keep your legs in fine form for the mountain with a soak at Ainsworth Hot Springs, the best recovery nature offers. 

As the most eclectic stop on the Powder Highway, you have to work a little harder to get here, but that’s what makes skiing Nelson and Kootenay Lake so special. Less than a three-hour drive from the Spokane International Airport in Washington, you can make your final approach by shuttle or car. A journey here will always need to be a little slower, and a bit more intentional—but that’s what makes it special. 

Sponsored

The post Your Guide to Exploring Nelson and Kootenay Lake Skiing  appeared first on Out There Venture.

Cover photo courtesy of Ainsworth Hot Springs

You might not normally drive 200 miles for a great meal, but the Ktunaxa Grill, located on the top floor at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort with sprawling windows that overlook Kootenay Lake, may make you think twice.  

Named after the Ktunaxa First Nations whose traditional lands expand far beyond the breathtaking lake and mountain views at the resort north of Nelson, BC, the menu features an indigenous-inspired menu with local ingredients prepared with classic and innovative cooking techniques. The result, best enjoyed after a relaxing soak in the on-site hot spring pools and a waiting pillow at the resort, is a healthy, non-hormone, allergy-friendly and antibiotic-free dining delight.  

The hot springs at what is today Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort were first visited by the Ktunaxa First Nations peoples, who experienced the warm waters as a welcome respite after a long day of hunting, fishing, and gathering roots and berries in what is now known as the Kootenay region. Since time immemorial, the Ktunaxa people have utilized this site as a place for healing. After battle, warriors would soak in the spirit waters (nupika wu’u) to ease the wounds sustained in the fight to defend their beautiful territory. Today, Ainsworth Hot Springs is owned by Yaqan Nukiy, the Lower Kootenay Band of Creston, B.C., returning the Ktunaxa peoples to this significant land so that they may share their appreciation with others.  

The scenic drive from Spokane to the hot springs at Ainsworth are an easy and rewarding trek that many regularly make throughout the seasons. Come winter, the towering snowy peaks and cold, glistening waters of Kootenay Lake are an especially stunning backdrop to it all. Not to be overshadowed by the hot springs and postcard views, the Ktunaxa Grill is a must-experience destination in its own right.  

Cory Chapman, a Red Seal chef with 30 years of experience in casual and fine dining, has been the executive chef at Ktunaxa Grill for the past eight years. Creating and evolving the culinary program at Ktunaxa Grill has been an adventure, says Chapman, explaining that indigenous fare is sadly a subject with little documented history in Canada. “My process is attempting to be as local as possible, using ingredients found in nature as well as farmed or cultivated in our part of the province, [including] BC’s coast and farther south to the U.S. and east to Alberta.” Chapman says game meats, fresh seafood and local vegetables are the primary focus of the menu. 

Open daily Wednesdays through Sundays and Monday morning, the restaurant menu features dishes that will leave you dreaming about them between visits. From grilled elk satay and bison French onion soup appetizers to the kale quinoa salad with a maple vinaigrette, with mains like cast iron pork chops, herb-crusted walleye, and wild game bolognaise, the Ktunaxa Grill consistently delivers memorable meals. Plan your winter escape to Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort and the Ktunaxa Grill at Ainsworthhotsprings.com.  

(Sponsored) 

The post Ktunaxa Grill at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort  appeared first on Out There Venture.

One of the greatest things about living in the Inland Northwest for many winter enthusiasts is the close proximity to the border with Canada and British Columbia mountain towns, ski resorts, backcountry terrain, hot springs, and friendly people. The currency exchange rate continues to save Americans around 25% percent on everything from hotel beds and lift tickets to meals and everything else. Crossing the border is easier than ever, as getting a passport or enhanced ID being affordable and more convenient. Don’t miss out on another season of BC winter adventures! 

SKI & SNOWBOARD RESORTS 

Apex Mountain Resort 

Location: Penticton, B.C. 

Summit: 7,175 ft. 

Lifts: 2 chairs, T-bar, & magic carpet 

Runs: 79 marked; 40+ unmarked 

Vertical: 2,000 + ft. 

Annual Snowfall: Nearly 20 ft. 

From Spokane: 5 hours 

Why Go: Dry, light powder; over 12,000 acres of backcountry/slackcountry terrain; close to amazing Okanagan Valley wineries. 

Baldy Mountain Ski Resort 

Location: Oliver, B.C. 

Summit: 9^th highest ski resort in Canada (7,580 ft.) 

Lifts: 2 + T-bar and magic carpet 

Terrain: 35 alpine runs, 360 acres of trails, and 240 acres of glades  

Annual Snowfall: 25 ft. 

From Spokane: 4.5 hours 

Why Go: Dry Okanagan powder; no crowds; 80% beginner and intermediate terrain. 

Big White Ski Resort 

Location: Kelowna, B.C. 

Summit: 7,606 ft. 

Lifts: 16 

Patrolled area: 2,834 acres 

Vertical: 2,550 ft. 

From Spokane: 4.5 hours 

Why Go: The second-largest ski resort lift system in Canada with real Champagne powder (and minimal lift lines); 100% ski-in ski-out accommodations; huge, vibrant village with over 20 restaurants and bars and plenty of off-the-slopes fun; super family friendly with new Kids’ Centre, a magic carpet and plenty to do for all ages and abilities (even for non-skiers). 

Fernie Alpine Resort 

Location: Fernie, B.C. 

Summit: 7,000 ft. 

Lifts: 10 

Skiable acres: 2,500 

Vertical: 3,945 ft. 

Snowfall: 29 ft. 

From Spokane: 5 hours 

Why Go: Fernie is an action-packed, real-deal ski town with seemingly endless resort and backcountry skiing and snowboarding; the views of jagged Rocky Mountain peaks above town will blow your mind. 

Kicking Horse 

Location: Golden, B.C. 

Summit: 8,218 ft. 

Lifts: 5 

Skiable acres: 3,486 

Vertical: 4,314 ft. 

Snowfall: 24 ft. 

Inbounds chutes: 85+ 

From Spokane: 6.5 hours 

Why Go: 60% advanced & expert terrain including 85+ inbounds chutes; and the fifth-biggest vertical in North America! 

Kimberley Alpine Resort 

Location: Kimberley, B.C. 

Summit: 6,500 ft. 

Lifts: 5 

Resort acres: 1,800+ 

Vertical: 2,465 ft. 

Snowfall: 13 ft. 

From Spokane: 4.5 hours 

Why Go: Some of the sunniest skiing and riding in the Kootenays; over 40% of the terrain is intermediate; night skiing, largest gladed terrain in North America. 

Panorama Mountain Resort 

Location: Invermere, B.C. 

Summit: 8,038 ft. 

Lifts: 10 

Resort terrain: 2,975 acres 

Vertical: 4,265 ft. 

Annual Snowfall: 16+ ft. 

From Spokane: 5.5 hours 

Why Go: Top 10 vertical in North America; 75% of the runs are suitable for beginners and intermediates. 

Phoenix Ski Area 

Location: Grand Forks, B.C. 

Lifts: 2 (T-bar and rope tow) 

Terrain: 15 runs 

Vertical: 800 ft. 

From Spokane: 3.25 hours 

Why Go: Great place for families to ski together and beginners of any age to learn; super unique community ski hill vibe. 

RED Mountain Resort 

Location: Rossland, B.C. 

Summit: 6,807 ft. 

Longest Run: 4.3 miles  

Lifts: 8 

Skiable Acres: 3,850 

Vertical: 2,919 ft. 

Annual Snowfall: 300 inches 

From Spokane: 2.5 hours 

Why Go: Huge, excellent terrain; in-bounds cat-skiing; epic tree-skiing and in-bounds steeps; nearly 82% of the terrain is intermediate to advanced; unique on-mountain lodging options. 

Revelstoke Mountain Resort 

Location: Revelstoke, B.C. 

Lift-top Elevation: 7,300 ft. 

Lifts: 4 

Skiable Acres: 3,121 

Longest Run: 9.5 miles 

Vertical: 5,620 ft. 

Annual Snowfall: 30-45 ft. 

From Spokane: 6 hours 

Why Go: Biggest vertical in North America; incredible in-bounds expert terrain; 45% intermediate terrain. 

Salmo Ski Hill 

Location: Salmo, B.C. 

Annual Snowfall: Plenty 

From Spokane: 3 hours 

Why Go: Fully-lit night skiing; great family-friendly terrain with a rowdy t-bar; old-school community ski hill on the way to Nelson. 

SilverStar Mountain Resort 

Location: Vernon, B.C. 

Summit: 6,280 ft. 

Lifts: 12 

Runs: 132  

Skiable Acres: 3,282  

Vertical: 2,500 ft. 

Annual Snowfall: 275 inches 

From Spokane: 6 hours 

Why Go: Colorful, ski-in, ski-out mid-mountain village; access to alpine slopes, Nordic trails, tubing, ice skating, and fat bike and snowshoe trails; B.C.’s third-largest resort and Canada’s largest daily-groomed cross-country trail network. 

Summit Lake Ski and Snowboard Area 

Location: Nakusp, B.C. 

T-bar: 1 

Acres: 30 

Vertical: 500 ft. 

From Spokane: 4.5 hours 

Why Go: Laid-back, old-school Kootenay ski experience with night skiing on Fridays. On the way to Revelstoke and Rogers Pass. 

Sun Peaks Resort 

Location: Kamloops, B.C. 

Summit: 7,060 ft. 

Lifts: 13 

Patrolled area: 4,270 acres 

Vertical: 2,893 ft. 

Annual Snowfall: 19+ ft. 

From Spokane: 8 hours 

Why Go: True to its name, Canada’s second-largest ski area soaks up over 2,000 hours of sunshine per year on average. 

Whitewater Ski Resort 

Location: Nelson, B.C. 

Summit: 6,700 ft. 

Lifts: 5  

Skiable Acres: 3,247 

Vertical: 2,014 ft. 

Annual Snowfall: 40 ft. 

From Spokane: 3 hours 

Why Go: 40 feet of Kootenay pow annually (on average); 55% advanced in-bounds terrain and incredible lift-accessed backcountry; new on-mountain lodging and RV camping; Nordic trail system; and friendly vibe, no cell service, legendary food, and proximity to Nelson, B.C.’s mountain town amenities.   

HOT SPRINGS 

Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort 

A short drive north from Nelson, the natural hot springs were first visited by the Ktunaxa First Nations peoples for healing and rejuvenation. Today the resort is fittingly owned by Yaqan Nukiy, the Lower Kootenay Band of the Ktunaxa Nation of Creston, B.C. Ainsworth Hot Springs includes warm, mineral-rich waters in a pool and a natural cave without the sulfur odor associated with some hot springs. There’s also a cold plunge pool, stunning views of Kootenay Lake and the Purcell Mountains, and onsite hotel and excellent Ktunaxa Grill restaurant. 4 hours from Spokane. 

Fairmont Hot Springs Resort 

Canada’s largest natural mineral hot spring with views of the Canadian Rockies. Resort includes a hot pool; large, warm swimming pool; and dive pool. There are a variety of lodging and dining options at the resort and an on-site, family-friendly ski hill. 5 hours from Spokane. 

Halcyon Hot Springs 

This remote and beautiful resort along Upper Arrow Lake 20 miles north of Nakusp, B.C., is on the way to Revelstoke and an incredible destination all its own. Enjoy mineral-rich natural hot spring pools, a kid’s spray park, and majestic lake-side views of the Monashee Mountains. Multiple on-site lodging options and the Chanterelle Restaurant and Bar. 5.5 hours from Spokane. 

Nakusp Hot Springs 

This community-owned hot springs in the Selkirk Mountains near the village of Nakusp and Upper Arrow Lake consists of two pools (one warm, one hot) fed by nearby natural springs. Rental chalets, camping and snowshoeing trails, and backcountry skiing options are nearby. 5.25 hours from Spokane. 

Radium Hot Springs 

Two large pools (one hot, one warm) provide soaking in natural mineral water within Kootenay National Park near the communities of Radium and Invermere. 5.5 hours from Spokane. 

FAT BIKING 

You can find fat biking trails, shared Nordic trails, and rentals at many of the ski resorts listed in this guide, but some of the best singletrack winter bike trails are being groomed in and around Rossland, Cranbrook, and Fernie, B.C.  

Rossland, B.C. 

Ride over 12k of machine-groomed trails around Rossland, including loops that start in or near town and RED Mountain Resort. Stop by Revolution Cycles for fat biking trail maps and local advice or for bike rental or gear needs.  

Fernie, B.C. 

Beginner, intermediate and expert riders will find a variety of groomed and user-packed trails for fat biking right out of downtown Fernie and another 12k or so of groomed multi-use trails at Fernie Alpine Resort. Stop by one of the local bike shops for recommendations. 

Cranbrook, B.C. 

Cranbrook has valley terrain, with plenty of flats and rolling hills that make for a great groomed fat bike trails system. Grooming typically happens in the South Star Cross Country Ski Area and the Cranbrook Community Forest, with up to 60-70k of trails groomed each winter that include options for all levels of riders.  

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING  

British Columbia has over 50 Nordic skiing areas across the province, with many of them located within an hour or two from the U.S. border. Most alpine ski and snowboard resorts have groomed cross-country trails, and many communities have additional groomed cross-country trail systems (some with lighting for night skiing) with excellent facilities. 

SilverStar Resort/Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre 

Canada’s largest network of daily-groomed cross-country ski trails begins at the SilverStar Mountain Resort near Vernon, B.C. Connected to SilverStar’s 55k of world-class trails is another 50k of groomed Nordic trails at Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre (dual mountain passes available). 

Nelson Nordic Trails 

Located 10 minutes south of Nelson on Highway 6 at the Whitewater Ski Area turnoff, the Nelson Nordic Ski Club maintains 30k of groomed trails (classic and skating tracks) for all levels. The trail system includes a day lodge, two warming huts, and 1.5k of lit trails for night skiing.   

Black Jack Ski Club Trails 

Five minutes north of Rossland, the 40k Black Jack cross-country trail system is one of the premier Nordic areas in western Canada and the closest B.C. trail system to Spokane. In addition to the groomed classic and skate skiing trails, there is a 2.5k lit night-skiing loop. 

Kimberley Nordic Club Trails 

The Kimberley Nordic Club hosts a 33k, first-class groomed trail network including double track, single track, and a center skating lane. The trail system on the edge of Kimberley includes a 3.3k lit loop for night skiing, a lodge with bathrooms, and a warming hut. 

Fernie Nordic Trails 

There are over 50k of groomed cross-country trails around Fernie, from beginner circuits to advanced trails. You can explore one of these different trail systems in the spectacular wilds of the Canadian Rockies each day of your trip: Fernie Alpine Resort, Fernie Golf Club, Island Lake Lodge, Montane, and the Elk Valley Nordic Centre.  

Paulson Cross-Country Ski Trails 
There is an excellent Nordic trail system close to the town of Castlegar. The Castlegar Nordic Ski Club grooms 52-kilometres worth of trails at the Paulson Cross Country Ski Trail system 20 miles from downtown.  

BACKCOUNTRY 

Scoring untracked backcountry powder on skis or a splitboard in the Kootenay-Rockies region of B.C. can take on many forms, from earning your turns on day tours, fully-catered hut trips, and vertical-maximizing cat ski or heli ski adventures (avalanche/backcountry gear, training, and awareness are essential). These popular ski-touring meccas offer endless opportunities to start exploring on your own; however, avalanche risks abound so go prepared. 

Kootenay Pass: Just north of the border near Salmo and Creston, this popular backcountry area can get crowded on weekends. Excellent terrain on both sides of the highway. 

Whitewater Ski Resort: Whitewater’s spectacular in-bounds riding is just the beginning of what this gateway to backcountry terrain has to offer those equipped to access the powder fields and steeps you can’t see from the lodge. 

Rossland/RED Mountain Resort: There are plenty of backcountry ski tours in the Rossland Range as well as lift-accessed touring possibilities from the resort and cat skiing. Check RED’s backcountry page for any updates to their touring policy and visit Backcountry Skiing Canada’s Rossland page for more info. 

Fernie: The long season and jagged Rocky Mountain peaks around Fernie make for dramatic ski touring and splitboarding out of the resort and other nearby alpine areas. Two local cat skiing operations make for a great guided option to explore the backcountry. 

Rogers Pass: This legendary backcountry destination between Revelstoke and Golden demands respect and a keen awareness of avalanche dangers. The big mountain terrain has gained a reputation that attracts skiers from around the world. 

Backcountryskiingcanada.com: This treasure trove of backcountry ski and splitboarding route recommendations, forums, and other valuable information and resources will help you explore B.C.’s wide range of backcountry options wisely.

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By Vince Hempsall 

Cover photo by Kari Medig and Courtesy of Nelson Kootenay Lake Tourism

Mountain biking wasn’t born in the West Kootenay region of British Columbia, but some might argue it was perfected there. Just ask Nelson local and three-time Red Bull Rampage winner Kurt Sorge. Or Mike Riediger, a Nakusp resident and CEO of the Kootenay Adaptive Sport Association whose trail building guidelines are now being adopted around the world.  

The city of Nelson and the communities surrounding Kootenay Lake are mountain biking meccas. They’re only a three to four-hour drive from Spokane, but they’re a world away when it comes to serenity and spaciousness. In fact, you’d be hard-pressed to encounter more than a few bikers on the trail systems in the village of Kaslo or on the East Shore area near the tiny communities of Crawford Bay and Riondel. Despite this, the riding in the region is world class, especially in the fall months when trail conditions are prime, and three new offerings stand out as particularly inviting for bikers of all ages and abilities. 

The newest trail is Tam O’Tiger and it’s located just north of Riondel off Tam O’Shanter forest service road, which acts as the up track. Once at the top, you’ll enjoy the first purpose-built, machined mountain bike trail on the East Shore that’s brimming with berms and bridges. Tam O’Tiger flows for about a mile and advanced riders will want to tackle the offshoot trail Shamrock with its long rock roll down. The ride finishes on the multi-discipline Lower Waterline Trail, which deposits you back at the parking area. 

After riding the East Shore, take the 45-minute-long ferry across Kootenay Lake to Balfour. It’s the world’s longest free scenic ferry and offers beautiful views of the Purcell and Selkirk mountain ranges that are bejeweled in gold during the autumn months as the larch trees turn color. From the ferry landing it’s a 25-minute drive north to the quaint community of Kaslo where you’ll find one of the longest mountain bike trails in B.C. 

Officially opened earlier this year, the Friendly Giant is well named because it’s a bi-directional green run that rises 4,400 feet over 11 miles. It has taken three years to complete this trail because, well, it’s huge! It’s also super fun. After reaching the summit and enjoying the views of Kootenay Lake and the surrounding mountains, ride back down the way you came and enjoy the buttery-smooth berms and rhythmic rollers. This is a great ride for the whole family as you can shuttle part way up in case little legs don’t feel up to grinding out the miles. 

Once you’ve gotten friendly with the Giant, you can go soak your bones at the Ainsworth Hot Springs resort 20 minutes south of Kaslo or continue down the lake to the beautiful mountain town of Nelson. There you’ll find lots of riding options including the modern flow tracks at Morning Mountain, which boasts the city’s newest trail called Rhythm and Blues. Officially opened last spring, this perfectly machined intermediate run offers a mile of smiles because the tabletops, berms, and bridges are so manicured, you feel like you’re riding a giant playground slide.  

For more information about mountain biking, and all other autumn activities to enjoy around Kootenay Lake, visit Nelsonkootenaylake.com. 

Where to Pre-Eat and Aprés Drink  

East Shore: Hit up the artisan hub of Crawford Bay where you’ll find potters, painters and broom makers as well as good eateries. Ladybug Coffee at the ferry terminal serves the best all-day breakfast sandwich and homemade chai in the region.  

Kaslo: The Bluebell Bistro makes the best cappuccino in town. For post-ride drinks, visit the local brewpub Angry Hen Brewing or the recently renovated bar in the Kaslo Hotel. 

Nelson: No less than 21 places serve coffee in the city and one of the oldest and best establishments is Oso Negro. There are also three craft breweries and plenty of restaurants serving everything from authentic tacos and wood-fired pizza to Tamil-style Indian and vegan fare.

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Nothing beats a hot spring soak after a fall day hike, and Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort (40 minutes north of Nelson, B.C.), is surrounded by some pretty spectacular options. Take your pick from old-growth forest, stream-or-lakeside strolls, challenging hill climbs, or cascading waterfalls. Then kick back and relax in the natural, mineral-rich thermal waters at Ainsworth. The vast mountainous country that sprawls in all directions contains more hikes than you could take on in a lifetime of road trips, but these are a few autumn favorites. 

• Kokanee Old Growth Cedars (2.4k round trip). Located 11.7k up the Kokanee Glacier Road by Kokanee Provincial Park, between Nelson and Ainsworth, this grove of huge trees up to 800 years old is a humbling and inspiring hike that just about anyone can take on. 

• Kaslo River Trail System (from 1k to a full day of wandering). Right on the edge of the village of Kaslo, this trail system has loops, red covered bridges, and streamside views of spawning Kokanee in September. Hike as far or as little as you like and keep an eye out for interpretive signs and the handiwork of local artists along the trail. 

• Fletcher Falls (around 1k round trip). 6k south of Kaslo, the short but steep hike down to Fletcher Falls and the shore of Kootenay Lake rewards hikers with the pounding spray of an impressive waterfall and a gorgeous picnic and rock-skipping spot on the lake. 

Book your Ainsworth hot spring session in advance (included with lodging) and do yourself a favor and make dinner reservations at the on-site Ktunaxa Grill while you’re at it. Ainsworthhotsprings.com. 

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