For over four decades, ROW Adventures has been leading people on guided outdoor adventures here in the Inland Northwest and around the world. While the Coeur d’Alene-based company is most well-known locally for guided whitewater trips, ROW recently started offering fully-guided bike tours here in the Inland Northwest.

This new service includes several options for multi-day bike tours on trails like the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes with the potential to link up to the Route of the Hiawatha and other North Idaho rail trail routes. These new tours will no-doubt be a hit with cyclists from around the world looking to explore the region’s truly world-class rail trail network, but they are also a great option for local cyclists who may not be comfortable with a self-supported multi-day bike tour.

Some of the biggest challenges for any DIY bike tour are the shuttle and having to haul all your own gear. ROW’s guided trips include meal stops, a sag wagon (van) providing support if riders need it, and comfortable hotel lodging each night. The tours also come with knowledgeable guides who can help you learn about the places you’re pedaling past, and is a great option for people who want to focus on the ride and get a good night’s rest each night.

Check out all of ROW’s bike tour options, including the Bitterroot Bonanza that includes biking, rafting, and kayaking in the same week, at Rowadventures.com/biking.

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Developments include the Camas Center with its heated swimming pools with slides, 32-foot rock climbing wall, full-court gym, and fitness center that opened in 2008; a visitors’ center and rest area; and the Kalispel RV Resort in Cusick (opened in 2019) that has RV and tent sites for camping as well as furnished cottages for rent. For those who are interested in indoor gaming entertainment and dining, the relatively new Kalispel Casino is located next to the RV resort.

Now the tribe and Kalispel RV Resort are encouraging adventure tourism to the region to continue to build on an already growing tourism and outdoor recreation economy.

“Recreational tourism is an important piece of our rural economy,” explains Mike Lithgow with the Kalispel Tribe’s Natural Resource Department. Indian Creek Community Forest, he says, is a great place to learn about the tribe’s forest restoration and conservation education efforts and experience this beautiful corner of the state.

Some of the other recreational activities nearby the Kalispel RV Resort include the International Selkirk Loop, a 280-mile scenic back road byway that encircles the Selkirk Mountains, as well as dozens of hiking and mountain biking trails on Colville National Forest lands, including Bead Lake, Sullivan Lake, the Salmo Priest Wilderness, and many others.

With so many lakes and miles of Pend Oreille River access in the area, fishing and water sports are also a major draw. Anglers can cast lines for days in the Pend Oreille River and in dozens of nearby lakes, including Browns Lake, which is exclusively reserved for fly fishing.

The Pend Oreille River Water Trail, a 70-mile stretch of river between Oldtown, Idaho, and Boundary Dam offers excellent paddling on kayaks, canoes, or paddleboards, as well as bird and other wildlife viewing and historical and environmental points of interest to explore.            

If you are planning to camp at the Kalispel RV Resort and explore the area, call ahead (509.447.7144) to inquire about availability and amenities while some COVID restrictions may still be in place this spring and summer.

[All photos courtesy Kalispel Tribe of Indians.]

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• Ski to Sea (May 24): Ski to Sea is the original multisport relay race, from Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bay. Organize teams of 3-8 racers and join in the fun on Memorial Day weekend. Teammates and spectators await finishing racers in Bellingham’s scenic Marine Park and experience the Historic Fairhaven Festival, the all-day street party just up the hill.  Editor’s Note: The 2020 Ski to Sea Race is cancelled because of the circumstances associated with COVID19 pandemic. Below is the content that appeared in our March 2020 issue’s Race, Ride, & Event Guide Special Section.
• Granite Man Off Road Weekend (June 27-28): This is one of the few off road tri/du’s in Oregon. It is a weekend full of events for the whole family, including swim and paddles, mountain bike rides, and trail runs. Affordable camping available at Applegate Lake.  
• Tour de Whatcom (July 18): Explore the beautiful landscape of Whatcom County, in northwest Washington, with a ride distance to suit your style. Options include 22 or 44 miles, Metric Century (62 miles), or Century Ride. Start/finish in downtown Bellingham. 
• Mt. Baker Hill Climb (Sept. 13): This event poses a unique challenge with over 4,000 feet in elevation gain in 22 miles along the winding highway into the alpine. Riders over the age of 13 can choose from three participation categories: social, recreational, and competitive. 
• WaCanId International Selkirk Loop Ride (Sept. 14-19): The WaCanId is an annual Rotarian-supported bicycle tour on paved roads encircling the Selkirk Mountains of Washington, Canada, and Idaho. The 6-day event covers 370 miles and showcases the International Selkirk Loop’s spectacular scenery. And if cyclists need a lift, there is plenty of support available. 
• Clark Fork Adventure Challenge (Sept. 20): Participants run, row, and ride their way through some of the most scenic areas of western Montana. With two options, the original Adventure Challenge and the Adventure Challenge Lite, there is opportunity for individuals with all levels of skills to participate.

Check event websites for any schedule changes and updates.

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Program coordinator Brian Bell, who has worked for MAST for over 22 years, says, “We don’t get many American students for some reason—only one American student every 3-4 years. You’d think it would be way more popular [especially because it’s] a good deal with the exchange rates.” International students must apply for a “Study Permit” and provide proof of medical insurance that’s valid in Canada in order to join the program. 

Though the average age is 23, Bell says students range from 19 to 50 years old, and the typical incoming student is less interested in a traditional academic college education. “Some want a career in adventure tourism, some don’t know, some come here to learn skills to go out into the mountains on their own,” he says. What MAST students all have in common, though, is they’re adventurous, athletic, and definitely like winter.

 “The MAST program motivated me to become an avalanche dog handler and avalanche tech, specializing in search and rescue,” says MAST 2010 alumna Jamie McCaffrey, 31. She has also worked as a professional ski patroller. Other MAST alumni have started their own guide service companies, like 2001 alumnus Mike Trehearne, founder of Cloud Nine Guides. “It’s very cool to see where our alumni have gone, and many are now raising families of adventure lovers,” says Bell. 

In the U.S., the Pacific Northwest is home to a handful of institutions offering degrees or certificates in recreation, outdoor leadership, eco-tourism, and similar fields. From Bellingham to Missoula, schools are based in cities surrounded by expedition opportunities. In Coeur d’Alene, North Idaho College (NIC) has an Outdoor Recreation Leadership program, where experiential learning outdoors helps “students grow both intellectually and physically,” says Professor Paul Chivvis. Boasting a 100 percent job placement rate, Chivvis says his students have become professional ski patrollers at local mountains and have found careers paths with the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management.  They are also recreation guides in sea kayaking, therapeutic recreation, fishing, and hunting. 

Andrew Pierce, 31, earned his NIC Outdoor Leadership Certificate in 2012 and has worked as a professional ski patroller and a guide for heli-skiing, whitewater rafting, ice climbing, and mountaineering. Now he’s an avalanche forecaster for the Washington Department of Transportation. NIC’s program, he says, offers progressive learning of “basic skills necessary to survive and thrive in all sorts of outdoor environments and sports, and then develops you to be a thoughtful and impactful decision-maker who is ready to help others explore the same way you do.” 

He considers his eight months at NIC as some of the best in his young adult life. A grueling snow cave camping expedition during his Introduction to Mountaineering class especially impacted him. “What once terrified me now brings an amazing sense of joy,” says Pierce. “Ski patrolling, heli-ski guiding, and avalanche forecasting can lead you into some pretty intense weather and demands full attention and focus. I often think back to that trip with Paul [Chivvis] whenever the wind is pounding snowflakes against my face with 50 mph winds.”

An outdoor recreation degree can also be a stepping-stone to an evolving career trajectory, like it was for Nick Parkert, 38, a Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife (WDFW) enforcement officer. After earning his bachelor’s degree in Recreation Leadership & Management from Western Washington University in 2004, with a focus on wilderness therapy, Parkert worked as a youth wilderness guide in Maine. Realizing it wouldn’t be a long-term career for him, he moved back to Washington and became a park ranger at Riverside State Park, near Spokane, which required police academy training. Six years later, when decreased funding for state parks caused widespread layoffs, he wanted to continue working outdoors—and also really enjoyed law enforcement. This led him to WDFW. First assigned to the northeast Washington office in Colville—overseeing Ferry, Stevens, and Pend Oreille counties—he transferred this past summer after seven years to a WDFW region for Pierce and Kitsap counties. 

“Even though my job is more regulatory, I am still outside and can feel some of the joy that those people are experiencing,” Parkert says, referring to people fishing along shorelines. Combining his love for the outdoors, recreation interests, and wildlife conservation values, he finds it personally rewarding to help protect “animal populations for future generations,” including for his own two daughters.

Some jobs will never be outsourced. Snowboard instructors, ski patrollers, and park rangers are needed by those of us who toil away inside, escaping to mountains on our days off. Whether it’s guiding, forecasting avalanches, or training a dog for search and rescue, work inspired by love for outdoor recreation feels less like work and more like daily adventures.

Check out these Regional Outdoor Recreation Degree Programs:

• College of the Rockies (Fernie, B.C.): Adventure Tourism certificate or degree, Mountain Adventure Skills Training (MAST).
• Eastern Washington University: B.A. Outdoor Recreation Leadership.
• North Idaho College: A.A.S. degree or certificate, Outdoor Recreation Leadership.                                      
• Oregon State University: Tourism, Recreation, & Adventure Leadership degree.
• Spokane Community College: A.A.S. degrees or certificate options; Natural Resource Management (forestry), Parks and Recreation, Wildlife/Fisheries, and Arboriculture/Urban Forestry.
• University of Idaho: Bachelor’s in Recreation, Sport, and Tourism. 
• University of Montana: Bachelor and master degrees in Parks, Tourism, & Recreation.
• Western Washington University: B.A. in Recreation Management & Leadership.

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Day 1: Fat Bike and Stay at Whitefish Bike Retreat

Enjoy the spacious seats on the Amtrak train overnight and arrive at the historic downtown Whitefish train station early on day one. If you book with Dollar Rental, a representative will have the car warmed and ready. Drive to Whitefish Bike Retreat (WBR), where owner Cricket Butler can set you up with beautiful lodging and perfectly fit fat-tire bike. Although on-site groomed trails are limited this winter due to timber harvesting, Butler’s knowledge of all things bike and trails make the lodge worth a visit. “I don’t believe bigger is better. I believe in quality,” she says. In all of her roles, from shuttle driver to owner to bike technician, this commitment stands out—so much so that guests who aren’t bike enthusiasts will also love the WBR experience. 

At the heart of WBR is its lodge; its simplicity shows off the rugged Montana style. With access to a beautiful and generously allocated kitchen, cozy living area, luxurious bathroom for hot showers, and long tables for spreading out maps or sharing a meal, it’s the perfect home base for couples or groups of friends. Winter season includes reduced rates and a wood-fired sauna. For people who prefer not to dirty their hands in the kitchen, drive back to town to Pescado Blanco and enjoy a mountain-town twist on Mexican favorites.  

Day 2: Cross-county Ski at Glacier National Park and Stay at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake

Head back into town for breakfast at Swift Creek Café before picking up ski rentals. Glacier Cyclery & Nordic will have you fully kitted out for a day of cross-country skiing in Glacier National Park. The knowledgeable staff can also recommend an itinerary. With the Going to the Sun Road closed for winter, the winding, scenic pavement turns into a human-powered dreamscape. A good introduction to cross-country skiing in the park is a leisurely glide to Lake McDonald. 

From Whitefish, drive 25 miles to the west entrance of Glacier National Park. Follow signs for Apgar, but be sure to stop at the foot of Lake McDonald to take in the view. Continue to the parking area at Lake McDonald Lodge and ski out and back on the Going to the Sun road. Be sure to pack plenty of snacks, water, layers in case the weather changes, and binoculars for wildlife sightings. 

Drive back to town and check-in at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, which is an approved drop-off location for Dollar Rental. Take the S.N.O.W Bus into town for dinner at Wasabi Sushi Bar & Ginger Grill. Ask your server to recommend sake pairings for every course, and start with the Hamachi carpaccio— a thin veil of fresh yellowtail with hot curry oil, avocado, tobiko, chives and tare sauce. From there, take your meal in any direction, from Nigiri to Sashimi to inspired fusion roles. 

Day 3-4: Ski, Snowboard, Snowshoe, and Relax at Whitefish Mountain Resort

After watching the sunrise from the lake-side hot tub at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, catch a free ride up to Whitefish Mountain Resort on the S.N.O.W. bus, which runs approximately on the half hour from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Great deals on winter ski and stay packages, consistently epic snow, and 11 speedy chairs that cover 3,000 acres of groomed runs and playful terrain—those are just a few of the reason why Whitefish is a must-visit resort this winter. Kate Atha, the assistant ski patrol manager, offers a behind the scenes glimpse of what else makes the resort special. 

In an industry where male patrollers are still the industry standard, Whitefish stands out in that close to half of its patrollers are women—and, coincidentally, fully half of the dogs in the patrol’s K-9 unit are female. Atha has co-led challenging rescue scenarios, like extracting a skier with a broken femur from the trees and safely lowering 140 guests from a chairlift with mechanical issues. “Anything that could happen in day to day life could happen here,” Atha notes. Anything and then some. 

It’s liberating to know you’re in such good hands when exploring epic terrain. Skiers looking for a challenge should try Atha’s favorite linkup: Elephants Graveyard to lower No Name to Haskill Chute. As for a favorite, all-level option? “If I have to pick one run, it’s definitely Inspiration. It’s a 2,000-foot vertical run with the best views of the area,” she notes.

Travelers on a budget should check out the resort’s Hibernation House, which includes hot, home-cooked breakfast and a hot tub. The Bierstube on the mountain offers pub fare and sightings of your favorite resort staff and patrollers.After two full days of charging, take the S.N.O.W. bus back to town and be ready to snooze in the spacious Amtrak seats the whole way home. Grab one last bite at Craggy Range, a Whitefish classic, while you wait for your train to roll in. Keep an eye on the online train tracker. If an act of god delays your train on its way from Chicago, consider it a sign from the heavens that you should order another round and raise a glass to your epic long-weekend adventure. 

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Tucked under a thick canopy of cedar trees, each cabin sleeps up to five in rustic luxury—think thick beams, hardwood floors, and hand-crafted furniture, befitting Ymir’s history as a timber community. The cabins are ideally situated for south Kootenays snow. Twenty minutes north lie the famed glades and cliff faces of Whitewater Ski Resort (and since you’ll be coming from the opposite direction as Nelson, you won’t have to contend with first-chair rush hour).  

Fifteen minutes to the south, Salmo Ski Hill epitomizes small-hill charm, where tickets run about $30 CAD and kids cling for dear life on the steep T-bar line. The hill’s night skiing, offered every Monday–Thursday, is a beloved Kootenays institution. And Kootenay Pass is only 20 minutes beyond Salmo, which gives backcountry enthusiasts a solid head start on skiers from Nelson and those coming from stateside. Stocked with woodstoves and warm robes, the lodge is also perfectly situated for staying put. // 

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As the first stop on Canada’s Powder Highway coming from Spokane, Red Mountain Resort’s 110 runs and abundant terrain are what really make the first-class accommodation worthwhile. 300 inches of snow each year, affordable cat skiing ($10/run), and multiple summits accessed by eight chairlifts cater to beginner through expert skiers and riders.  

The Josie is positioned between Red Chair, which charges directly to the summit of Red Mountain (5,219 feet), and the Silverlode Chair, which shuttles you to a cat track and additional chairlifts that access the summits of Granite (6,807 feet) and Grey (6,719 feet). The 360-degree descents from Granite Mountain will have beginner and intermediate skiers enjoying turns toward Paradise Lodge while advanced skiers get frisky on Buffalo Ridge and the adjacent chutes and trees. 

After a day skiing your legs into oblivion, or mingling with other dabblers in the lodge, The Josie’s Velvet Restaurant and Lounge stands out as the most inspired amenity of the resort. The exquisite gravity of executive chef Marc-Andre Choquette’s French-influenced seasonal fare and locally inspired drink menu will pull you back for every meal. It satisfies the most ravenous post-ski appetite with an ingredient-forward take on a classic burger. For a full menu experience, start with crispy Brussels sprouts doused with spicy Korean BBQ sauce. Then enjoy the red and yellow beet salad, garnished with crispy quinoa, puffed wild rice, compressed fennel, and licorice-garlic dressing. Finally, savor the pan-seared halibut and saffron bouillabaisse broth, roasted squash, and squid ink tapioca crackers. For a robust culinary experience, ask your server for wine pairings, and under no circumstances should you skip desert. 

If The Josie sounds out of reach, think again. The 30 percent “Canadian discount” thanks to the strong U.S. dollar makes luxury travel more accessible to everyday Americans. Plus, the hotel honors AAA discounts and offers ski packages for additional savings, as well as a “kids ski, stay, and eat for free all winter long” promotion.  //

Originally published as “Play Hard, Pamper Hard” in the December 2019 issue BC Ski & Winter Travel Guide.

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Cranbrook steps up the opportunities for turning some pedals in the snow. The city boasts one of the largest groomed, singletrack fat bike trail networks in western Canada. And the rolling terrain with wide-spaced trees around town makes for stellar winter riding. //

For more details about fat biking in Cranbrook, visit this link.

This story was originally published as “Don’t Forget the Fat Bike” in the 2019 December issue’s BC Ski & Winter Travel Guide.

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1. Proper ID: Make sure everyone in your vehicle has a current passport, enhanced drivers’ license/ID, or federally issued passport card (half the price of a passport). You’ll need one of these easy-to-obtain ID options to get in and out of Canada. 
2. Pick the Best Border Crossing: Do your research and choose the right border crossing for the fastest trip to your destination based on distance, road conditions, and time of day (some crossings have limited hours). Making a mistake can add hours to your trip. See our list below of the 7 regional official ports of entry.
3. Leave That Stuff at Home: While Cannabis is legal in both B.C. and Washington, leave your stash at home. Same goes for many fresh fruits and vegetables you may get questioned about, as well as all guns and other weapons, and, for the sake of the American image, any attitude with Canadian border officials. //

Choosing the Best Border Crossing 

Use this border crossing info and a map to make sure you don’t get stuck at a closed crossing or waste time taking the wrong one. 

Osoyoos/Oroville: 24 hours; Use for some Okanagan resorts. 

Midway/Ferry: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Use for Big White/SilverStar shortcut when roads are good. 

Cascade/Laurier: 8 a.m.-midnight; Use for Big White, SilverStar & Phoenix. 

Paterson/Frontier: 24 hours; Use for RED Mountain & Rossland. 

Nelway/Metaline Falls: 8 a.m.-8 p.m. U.S. / 8 a.m.-midnight Canada; Use for Whitewater, Nelson, Ainsworth, Kootenay Pass, Salmo, Nakusp, Revelstoke, Halcyon & Rogers Pass. 

Rykerts/Porthill: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. U.S. / 8 a.m.-midnight Canada; Use for Creston/Kootenay Pass. 

Kingsgate/Eastport: 24 hours; Use for Kimberley, Fernie, Panorama, Fairmont, Radium, Golden, & Kicking Horse. //

For more information on traveling from the U.S. to Canada and travel documentation requirements, visit these official resource pages from the U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the U.S. Dept. of State.

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