The Full Moon Bike Club (FBC) in Sandpoint turned 7 in April and will be holding their 94^thFull Moon Fiasco this month. They meet at Eichardt’s Pub and Grill at 8 p.m., ride at 9 p.m., take a different route each month, and sometimes see a moose. Spoke card sales raise money for some good causes. Follow them on Facebook or at Fbcsandpoint.net for exact dates and reviews of past rides.

In 2018, a small group of community-minded businesses in Coeur d’Alene got together and picked up the full moon ride torch from the Lake City Lunar Landers, who had been organizing rides for about four years. The CDA Full Moon Ride has since grown into a lively year-round event with fun for the whole family. For the July 16 ride, the pre-party begins at 6 p.m. at Slate Creek Brewing Company, with the ride starting at 8 p.m. Stops include Independence Point and Coeur d’Alene Cider Company. Follow CDA Full Moon Ride on Facebook and Instagram (@cdafullmoonride) for updates and how to volunteer.

Brand new this year, the Route of the Hiawatha is hosting monthly full moon rides on the trail: $32/person includes a shuttle and $60 gets you an additional t-shirt, water bottle, and snacks. The July 16 ride meets at 8 p.m. at the East Portal and is suitable for ages 13 and older. Pre-paid reservations only. Call 208-744-1301 ext. 19 to reserve and go to RideTheHiawatha.com for more info.

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Meghan Henry, triathlete and winner of this year’s second leg of the Tour de Dungeness.

Bike of choice: Giant TCR Advanced Pro 

Background: Henry competed in Ironman races for eight years. 2019 is her second year road racing where, at the time of this writing, she is four points shy of Category 3 upgrade.

Favorite road ride: Saltese Flats and Quinimose Hill 

A 31-mile loop skirting Liberty Lake that winds around and through the Saltese Conservation area, with a 1.5-mile climb. A good bit of up and down with winding descents or climbs, depending upon the direction travelled. It includes one 500-foot climb and 1,300 feet of climbing overall. The Saltese-Quinimose loop can be tackled in either direction by intermediate riders and made as difficult as one likes. (Bradley Bleck)

Dan Wilson, Evergreen East board member

Bike of choice: Pivot Mach 5.5, “a climbing and descending machine.”

Background: 15 kind-of-serious years, since high school

Favorite mountain bike ride: Caribou Ridge

Wilson says Caribou Ridge near Coeur d’Alene has “got some of the most gnarly, technical ridgeline trails around. My favorite thing is to go out and climb and do it all for the descent. I love trails that keep me on my toes and push me. If you fall off, it can be really bad.” Distance: 14-mile loop with about 2,800 feet of climbing. Difficulty: Advanced to expert or a willingness to tumble down some steep slopes (Bradley Bleck)

Justin M. Short, Dirty Spokanza founder

Bike of choice: An Open Unbeaten Path carbon gravel bike, nicknamed the Blue Goose Looney

Years riding: 41, or since he got training wheels.

Favorite ride: Dirty Spokanza

This 100-mile, mixed-surface ride with pavement, gravel, singletrack, doubletrack, and a few optional jumps was first held this past summer. The Dirty Spokanza starts and finishes at Mojo Cyclery in Spokane Valley. From there, it’s off to Beacon Hill and then Mount Spokane’s summit. It starts with a wheelie contest, followed by the ride to and a big air contest at Beacon Hill, then a summiting of Mount Spokane where those who brought kites fly them. Short is looking to change up the route, trying to work in 10,000 feet of climbing.  Difficulty: Advanced to expert. (Bradley Bleck)

Central Washington

Dirk Fowler, Manager at Cycle Central 

Bike of choice: Trek Emonda

Years riding: Since 1995-ish

Favorite road ride: Mad River Road

Drive to the town of Entiat and park at the south end of Entiat City Park (road biking). Head up Entiat River Road. Just after Cooper’s General Store, take a left on Mad River Road. Begin climbing for the next 11.6 miles and enjoy the beautiful brutality. When the pavement peters out at around 4,500 feet, turn around and head back to Entiat. This 3,000-foot climb is one of the most challenging in the state. It’s also stunning as it begins at a gorgeous creek and heads into high alpine country. It’s relatively untraveled and best in June or July in the early morning when wildflowers are blooming. Distance: 51 miles and 4,595 feet of elevation gain. Difficulty: Advanced. It’s one of two 8c climbs in Washington. (Summer Hess)

Kyle McNatt, Arlberg Sport bike and ski technician 

Bike of choice: 2019 Specialized Stump Jumper Expert 

Years riding: 16 

Favorite mountain bike ride: Upper Mission Ridge Trail to Lower Devil’s Gulch

You can ride both trails both directions, but the logging road has a more gradual uphill. Park at the Lower Devil’s Gulch Trailhead. Ride up Fire Road 7100 until it ends and take a right on FR 9712. Pass the Upper Devil’s Gulch Trailhead and continue another 2 miles to the Mission Ridge Trailhead. The upper section is super rocky and really technical. After 4 miles come to an intersection and continue down Devil’s Gulch Trail and enjoy a flow trail the rest of the way down. Mission Ridge Trailhead tops out at nearly 6,000 feet and you can see 360 degrees. You’re in the woods the rest of the time. Distance: About 14 miles uphill on fire road and 12 miles down on trail. Difficulty: Intermediate-advanced. (Summer Hess)

Montana and British Columbia 

Cricket Butler, Whitefish Bike Retreat owner

Bike of choice: Trek Stash

Years riding: 13 

Favorite bikepack:Red Meadows Divide Ride

Start at Whitefish Bike Retreat with the option of riding singletrack or gravel roads. Head north toward Upper Whitefish Lake then continue on to Red Meadow Lake with a few primitive tent sites. The ride is treed with open views along the ridges up to Red Meadow Pass—the one major climb. Enjoy pristine alpine lakes with lots of wildlife and great fishing. There’s most likely snow in June, so this ride is best July-September. For a longer tour, it’s possible to ride to Kintla Lake or Bowman Lake Campgrounds via dirt roads through the west side of Glacier National Park. The west entrance of Glacier is not as popular and makes a good 2-3 night trip. Distance: Approximately 20 miles or one day to get to Red Meadows. Difficulty: Beginner friendly. (Summer Hess)

Nat McGrath, a mainstay on the BC Cup downhill series

Bike of choice: Rocky Mountain Maiden

Years riding: 17 

Favorite downhill ride: Hula Girl, Mount Swansea. 

British Columbia’s Upper Columbia Valley is not the first spot in the province that comes to riders’ minds when they think of classic BC biking. But there’s a reason the region produces riders like Nat McGrath, a mainstay on the BC Cup downhill series. Thanks to the arid climate—with its wineries and golf courses, the Upper Columbia Valley bears more in common with the Columbia Valley of southern Washington than with the surrounding Canadian Rockies. Its rocky, rooty, old-school trails allow for a long riding season. Hula Girl highlights the features in this technical trail system, where ladder-like launch platforms and rock steeps demand dialed-in riding. Distance: 1.7 kilometers one-way. Difficulty: Intermediate. (Aaron Theisen)

Jesse McClintock, SilverStar team rider

Bike of choice: Carbon Devinci Wilson 27.5 

Years riding: 8 

Favorite downhill ride: BX Creek loop at Silver Start Bike ParkMcClintock recommends an 8-kilometer loop beginning on Brian’s Trail, which connects to BX Creek trail, and then onto Grizzly Adams and Corkscrew. “The main reason for that is because the trailhead for Brian’s Trail is literally out my front door,” says McClintock.  But the riding itself is worthwhile: short, steep climbing switchbacks and berms alternate with root-strewn descents for a technical pedal. He admits that he loves every trail at SilverStar. He says, “It really just depends on what you feel like riding and who you’re with. I honestly just love being on my bike with awesome people or by myself with my headphones blasting.” Difficulty: Intermediate to expert. (Aaron Theisen)

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When you’re not riding, Wallace provides the perfect base camp to explore local breweries, pubs, shops, museums, and restaurants all in a friendly, character-rich town that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Wallace Coffee House at 6^thand Cedar will provide your pre-ride morning caffeine and breakfast boost. When you’re done exploring the trails for the day, you can refuel at one of several craft eateries and watering holes like the Blackboard Cafè, Fainting Goat Wine Bar and Tap Room, City Limits Brew Pub, Wallace Brewing Companyor 1313 Club. At the end of the day, choose from many different lodging options the town has to offer.

Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes 

To say Wallace has easy access to the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes may be an understatement since the 73.2-mile paved trail that runs from Plummer to Mullan goes right through town. The trail carves a path through rolling green hills of pine and fir, across wetlands and meadows that provide lake- and river-side views. From Wallace, you can schedule a shuttle with the Wallace Inn out to the town of Harrison, Idaho (about 56 miles away), for a challenging ride back into Wallace. For a shorter ride, arrange your shuttle to drop you off at one of several trailheads closer to Wallace.

Plot to take breaks in one or more of the towns along the trail for food and beverages (both Cataldo, Enaville, and Kellogg have pubs along the trail), or bring your own water and snacks (packing it in and out, of course). While you’re riding, keep an eye out for local wildlife such as eagles, swans, hawks, moose, or elk. The Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes is open to bikes year-round and also makes for great winter fat biking trips. 

Route of the Hiawatha

Opening for the 2019 riding season on May 24, the Route of the Hiawatha is a breathtaking ride that’s suitable for the whole family to travel from late May until late September. This rail-to-trail path will take you over seven historic, sky-high trestles and through 10 train tunnels on a slight downhill grade the entire way. Enjoy spectacular views of the Bitterroot Mountains on this 15-mile ride that is suitable for most adults and children who are comfortable riding a mountain bike or other bicycle with good traction tires for several hours. To complete the ride, a trail pass is required ($8 for kids and $10 for adults). Reserve your passes in advance online.

To make the ride easier, there is a shuttle service for a small fee ($7 for kids and $10 for adults) that will bring you and your bike back to the top of the trail after your ride is done. The route is famous for St. Paul Pass, or Taft Tunnel, which is a 1.66-mile long tunnel that goes under the Bitterroot Mountains at the state line between Idaho and Montana (bring your bike light!). You can also rent bikes and child trailers and other gear from Lookout Pass.

Lengthen your ride by beginning at Lookout Pass’ parking lot (4,730 ft. in elevation) and following the old Northern Pacific railroad grade until you reach Taft Tunnel and the start of the Hiawatha (4,160 ft.) (note though that the shuttle service does not provide service to Lookout Pass). You can also head east from the Hiawatha further into Montana for additional riding. The route of the Hiawatha is a 7-mile drive from Lookout Pass (where you can rent bikes), which is just 12 miles east of the town of Wallace.

Lesser-Known Biking Routes around Wallace

Route of the Olympian—technically, this ride is a continuation of the Hiawatha Trail on the old Milwaukee rail bed, though it’s totally separate from the Route of the Hiawatha. You’ll continue to ride through tunnels and over scenic trestles, following the St. Regis River. This trail is a beginner level, flat, and free to ride. 

Old Milwaukee Railroad Trail—Starting from Marble Creek and traveling 35 miles into the town of St. Maries, Idaho, this trail is great for gravel riders. Composed of compact dirt and country gravel roads, you’ll ride along the beautiful St. Joe River.

Northern Pacific Trail—This trail runs along the old Northern Pacific rail bed and goes from Mullan, Idaho, into Montana. It’s a multi-use, 12-mile trail with multiple surfaces: pavement, compact dirt, and gravel. There are historic kiosks scattered along the route that climbs up and over Lookout Pass and connects the Hiawatha Trail and Route of the Olympian trail.

Milwaukee Scenic Alternate Trail—A compact dirt trail that is signed along the 23-mile route that takes you from Pearson (at the end of the Hiawatha trail) into Avery as you peddle along the St. Joe River.

More Riding Resources

Check the Friends of the Coeur d’Alene Trail website for current trail conditions and closures depending on the season for all of the routes covered in this article. You can also purchase Digital GPS files for most of the above-mentioned trails. Then, go explore all of the stunning bike rides that the historic Wallace area has to offer! The Wallace Chamber of Commerce can also provide info on local events, dining, history, and options for where to stay.

(Sponsored Content)

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If you have aspirations of using these long summer days to race, then a bike fit might already be part of your plan. Whatever your biking goals, from long, sometimes-strenuous tours, to preventing injuries or mitigating discomfort, to beating your buddy (or nemesis) in the bike stage of your next triathlon, mating musculoskeletal structure to your machine of choice will help you achieve them.

To aid your ambitions, we are fortunate to have a true guru in Pullman, Wash. Brice Erickson of B&L Bicycles is an expert in the field of fitting, finding his place in the late 80s among the first in what remains a small field of people who know that most of us lack the luck to fit in a suit off the rack. There are currently around 150 people worldwide who perform the level of adaptation of bike to body that Erickson does. In the early days of custom fitting, he worked closely with another of the discipline’s pioneers and legendary progenitor of cyclocross, Michael Sylvester, who found bike fit through yoga as a means of coping with multiple serious injuries and continuing to satisfy his passion for active speed.

Walking into Erickson’s brightly lit shop, peering past shiny new rides, I was taken in by his collection of antique bicycles. Many were clearly some of his first, others were family heirlooms, some beautiful collectibles, each a partial testament to the fervor of their owner.

From our preliminary interview, through extensive function and flexibility tests, I found him drawing me in to his somewhat nerdy world of miniscule bike fitting details. “Age, muscle imbalance, injuries, or sitting at a computer, all will affect your fit over time,” Erickson claimed, as he centered a pressure mapping device on my seat. This was new; I’ve had several bike fit sessions, and had never seen this process before going to B&L. Pedals, handlebars, and seat share the load of a rider. The pressure mapping system would tell him where mine was hurting me.

“You must have a high tolerance for pain,” he wagered, looking at the data from the device, which showed too much spiky red for comfort. All bodies are different, none are symmetrical, and we can’t always see those differences readily, which makes the pressure-mapping system a key data source. It was true that my saddle was increasingly painful as the gel inserts broke down. Plus, my fit was changing, and my knee was letting me know.

I had chosen a classic Brooks saddle to replace my aging Terry, which a friend had dubbed “the emasculator.” After testing with a broken-in Brooks, Brice determined that a new one would work for me. Once all the data had been evaluated, and the ideal fit for my riding goals achieved, he added a longer stem and tweaked handlebar and saddle positions until we were both satisfied that I could take a long ride with comfort.

I was dropped off for a test on the way back to Spokane. The final 25 miles into town on the Centennial Trail felt far too short: a good sign, but a longer trial felt necessary. So, a day later, I went on a four-day tour around the eastern shore of Lake Pend Oreille. Initially I fought the new fit, muscle memory taking me back to bad habits painfully ingrained over many miles. Once I relaxed and focused on keeping my head up, the new position provided precisely what the best bike fits will: increased efficiency and the ability to sit for hours on long climbs.

[Feature photo: One of Brice Erickson’s customers on his Fit Cycle watching real time saddle pressure mapping data at his shop in Pullman. This information will be used to select one of the 200 plus seats available there. // Justin Skay]

Not convinced you should get a bike fitting? Check out Katrina Z. Vogel’s article on how a bike fitting can eliminate pain.

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“Our summer season pass holders have typically used their pass about double what a winter pass holder does,” says Willy Bartlett, Marketing and Events Director at Silver Mountain Bike Park in Kellogg. How to cater to such a dedicated cycling clientele? New trails and facelifts to old favorites.

SILVER MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK

Recent years have seen Silver Mountain Bike Park evolve from simply offering top-to-bottom vertical runs of 3,400 feet to short and sweet (and steep) laps off Chair 3. This summer, riders will find a number of new and improved trails.

At the top of the mountain, trail crews gave Crescent Trail, their flagship beginner route, a full rebuild on the upper two-thirds, making it more approachable as a learn-to-ride trail. Meanwhile, for black-diamond bikers, Snake Pit—straight and steep like its hidden winter analogue—opened the final weekend of last season. Near the bottom, the trail crew built out Wide Open, adding deep berms, step-ups and step-downs to what was formerly a fast fire-road descent. “We took something that was just a few seconds of fully pinned straightaway and made it more fun and flowy,” says Bartlett. Riders can finish off with Mourning Woods, a tight, flowing blue trail which re-enters the trail inventory after a major rebuild to bring it up to standard.

The bike park also continues to build its reputation as one of the premier racing destinations in the Northwest. Returning this year June 29-July 1 is the North American Enduro Cup, a national-level race, with up to one-hundred pro men and women competing for $12,000 in prize money. The NW Cup, the region’s biggest race series, will bring in a strong beginner contingent in addition to the pros June 22-24. “We get everything from the fastest guys in the Northwest to little kids with mom and dad riding behind them,” says Bartlett. New to Silver this year is the Sturdy Dirty, a women’s enduro, July 14; Bartlett describes the scene at the event’s other host sites—aid-station costumes and all—as “one of the rowdiest races of the year.” Rounding out the season is the Silveroxx Mountain Bike Festival September 21-23, with night rides, group rides, a top-to-bottom race, and a big party in the village Saturday.

The big-name races and trail upgrades bolster the bike park’s reputation for big-hit, full-commit expert lines. And it’s a reputation the mountain doesn’t want to dispel—it’s what the park’s pass-holders have come to expect. But, Bartlett notes, for first-time riders, a Silver Mountain Bike Park is also a safe, self-contained place to dip a tire into the sport. “We have a lot of people who show up, they rent a bike, they get a lesson, everything is easily marked,” says Bartlett. “We always tell people who haven’t been to the park that if you can ride Beacon, you can ride here.” The bike park’s goal, adds Bartlett, is to provide something for everybody, beginner to expert. That means constant creation and refinement of trails so that riders can find something suitable for them, whether it’s their first time or fiftieth.

If you haven’t ridden Silver in a couple seasons, it’s probably completely different than last time you were there. “We used to say we wanted to be a place you’d be able to come for a three-day weekend, and I think we’ve achieved that,” says Bartlett. “Now we say we’d like to have Silver be a place where you could come for a week.”

Silver Mountain Bike Park Seven runs weekend operations until June 21 and then seven-day-a-week operations through Labor Day.

SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN RESORT

Schweitzer Mountain Resort will have its own summit-to-city circuit, thanks to a partnership between the resort, the City of Sandpoint, the Selkirk Recreation District, and the Pend Oreille Pedalers.

In the last several years, the four groups have coordinated to manage and legalize a set of rogue trails below the resort that illegally broached the city’s watershed when originally constructed. Now, from the top of the Great Escape chairlift, riders can descend the Highpoint Trail to connect to Uleda Ridge and the Selkirk Recreation District trails down to the valley floor—some 4,000 vertical feet and over 12 miles, almost all on singletrack. “This is a great step forward for mountain bikers in the region,” says Sean Mirus, Sales and Marketing Director at Schweitzer Mountain Resort. Eventually the Highpoint Trail will be part of the planned Watershed Crest Trail, a multi-year project which will circumnavigate the watershed on some thirty miles of singletrack.

Schweitzer has also embraced sustainable trail design within the resort’s boundaries. “There has definitely been a shift from the super techy gnarly downhill track to the super-fun, flowy trails that are fun for everybody,” says Mirus. “We’ve really put an increased emphasis on flow and trail design and sustainability in recent years.” For instance the resort’s downhill trails “don’t include a lot of built-up, manmade features,” says Mirus, adding that they try to incorporate natural features as much as possible. Schweitzer, like the rest of the Selkirks, is a mass of decomposing granite, so trail builders here have plenty of rock features to work with—and around.

Meanwhile, the trails of the resort’s lower-mountain cross-country network and Selkirk Recreation District boast a beginner-friendly mix of dirt-centric double- and singletrack riding. All told, the trails combine for close to 40 miles of riding; this season, a new combined trail map incorporates the now-integrated Schweitzer-to-Sandpoint trail system.

A record-breaking snowfall year meant a win for skiers but means a waiting game for bikers this summer. But, as any rider will tell you, it’s important to keep up your momentum in the transitions. And the Schweitzer trail crew isn’t slowing down. Says Mirus, “In past years, we’ve actually taken snowblowers down some of the trails to get them ready!” The projected opening date for Schweitzer’s summer trails is June 22.

WHITEFISH BIKE PARK

Whitefish Mountain Resort, in Whitefish, Mont., is one of the grandaddies of gravity-assisted mountain biking. And its trails trace the changing face of bike parks. “The example of the style of trail-building of 20 years ago is our Summit Trail: it zigzags across the whole mountain, and as a downhill ride, it’s really long—it’s exhausting for someone who doesn’t have a lot of experience,” says Riley Polumbus, Public Relations Manager at the resort.

In 2008, adapting to the advent of big-hit bikes and a desire for more technically challenging descents, the resort built Runaway Train: a serious, straight-down, rowdy downhill. Then, in 2013, the resort added Kashmir, which the International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) named as a Model Flow Trail. “After we added Kashmir, we realized we have a lot of options: from the steep, rocky downhill of something like Runaway Train to the fast, flowy, big turns of Kashmir and Freebird,” says Polumbus. “We’re not huge, but we have something for everyone.”

But the big trail-related development for the bike park is happening just outside the resort boundaries. This winter, the community welcomed a new trail on a private easement between the resort’s lower-mountain trails and the Whitefish Trail—a nearly 40-mile network of community-funded and -constructed non-motorized trails around Whitefish Lake. “It’s a fun little connection,” says Polumbus. “You could conceivably go from our summit down to pavement and be in town.” They’re that much closer to closing the loop with the long-desired goal of a system of dirt trails that circumnavigates Whitefish Lake.

The addition of the Bad Rock lift to the summer inventory several years ago also added a dedicated beginner/intermediate area for riders. “Having two lifts servicing the terrain is nice, especially because it spreads people out,” says Polumbus. “We get riders on the Bad Rock lift who are either warming up for the day or don’t have the skillset yet to drop into Runaway Train.”

Although Runaway Train and Kashmir have become the park’s signature trails, Polumbus hopes that the park’s beginner-friendly programs provide a stepping-stone to step-downs and steeps. “Our Learn to DH Bike program has been quite popular, with a lot of both kids and adults taking it to familiarize themselves with the sport,” says Polumbus.

The resort also offers a full calendar of bike events. A weekly race series has catered to cross-country riders the last 20 years, but this year downhillers will get their own separate Wednesday-night race series. And on August 24-26, the resort will host the NW Cup, which is projected to bring in up to five hundred riders from around the region. The event coincides with the Hootenanny, the annual fundraising event for the Whitefish Trail, which means riders won’t lack for bikes-and-beer socializing.

Perhaps most exciting of all for some is the news that the Bierstube, consistently ranked one of the top resort apres-ski bars in the nation, will open for post-ride imbibing this summer. Whitefish Mountain Resort amenities move from weekend operations to a seven-day-a-week schedule June 16 through Labor Day. //

MORE BIKE PARKS AROUND THE REGION

Panorama Mountain Bike Park

Panorama Ski Area, west of Invermere, B.C., constructed many of its 30k of downhill trails during the peak of the lift-served downhill era, a resort-based arms race that chased bigger and bolder lines. Riders at Panorama—open June through early September—can expect a parade of technical features, from drops to gaps on runs such as Crazytrain. Recently renovated entries and exits embrace the flow-friendly modernized size of resort riding, and beginners can wade in on Let It Ride, a 3k, top-to-bottom beginner-friendly flow trail.

Bike Big White

Despite its proximity to the birthplace of free-riding, Big White Ski Resort, near Kelowna, B.C., didn’t have a lift-accessed bike park until last season. But Big White has made up for lost time, applying decades of dirt-moving knowledge to the construction of its trails. And it shows: even green runs such as Pry Bar boast big, beginner-friendly berms and low-consequence doubles. Experts will find plenty of classic granite drops on double-black Rock Hammer.

SilverStar Bike Park

If you’ve watched a mountain bike film in the last 10 years, you’ve seen SilverStar Bike Park. This park, near Vernon, in the Okanagan of central B.C., goes big: the resort’s Comet Six Pack Express—Canada’s longest mountain bike chairlift—climbs 1,600 vertical feet and accesses over 600 berms and more than 300 jumps on 30 miles of downhill trails. The cross-country crowd needn’t feel left out, though—the park features roughly the same mileage in pedal-friendly trails. Oh, and the wildflowers are legendary. Not that you’ll notice.

Tamarack Bike Park

Built in the mid-2000s, the mountain bike trails at Tamarack Resort, south of McCall, Idaho, lay dormant with the rest of the mountain for several years following the resort’s collapse into bankruptcy. But 2018 marks the third year of summer weekend lift operations, with some 60 miles of tight, technical turns sweeping down 1,700 feet of vertical. Long-time regional DH racers have fond memories of the steeps and wooden features of trails such as Hibernator. Check out why the park was once rated one of the best in the country. //

[Feature photo courtesy of Schweitzer Mountain Resort.]

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Whether you prefer long road tours, short family-friendly rides, or bikepacking off the grid, the Inland Northwest offers an array of beautiful, fun, and challenging bike trails worth checking out this season.

Route of the Hiawatha

This 15-mile trail leads through 10 tunnels and across seven trestles (some over 200 feet high). The 1.6 percent gentle downhill grade follows the crest of the Bitterroot Mountains. Beginning near the Lookout Pass Ski Area, the trail drops 1,000 feet to the end point at Pearson, where shuttles can take bikers back up. The ride kicks off through the 1.66-mile St. Paul Pass Tunnel (also known as the Taft Tunnel) crossing from Montana into Idaho. The scenic and historic trail is fun for capable riders of all ages. “I describe the terrain as pedal…pedal…coast!” says Matt Sawyer of Lookout Pass. “Very easy and family-friendly.” It’s recommended to make online reservations for shuttle tickets and trail passes in advance. Gear rentals are also available at Lookout Pass Ski Area. Helmets and lights are required; mountain bikes or fat tire bikes advised. Opens May 26. Daily hours are 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Details at Ridethehiawatha.com.

Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes

An award-winning rails-to-trails project, the 72-mile Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes extends across Idaho’s panhandle from its western end in Plummer to Mullan on the eastern end. The railroad-grade elevation and smooth surface make for easy riding, whether exploring the full trail or tackling short segments. The 17 miles between Plummer and Harrison follow the perimeter of Lake Coeur d’Alene. The Chain of Lakes segment extends between Medimont and Harrison; past Cataldo, the trail follows the Coeur d’Alene River. Landon Crecelius, a Spokane area resident and regular recreational bicyclist, enjoyed riding the whole trail with a friend a few years back. “It was a great outing that included ice cream, swimming at Harrison, moose sightings, and a cold beer at a bar in Mullan,” he says.

Ferry County Rail Trail

There are two hard-packed, smooth surface sections along this 25-mile rail trail in northeast Washington, which runs between Republic and Danville, near the Canadian border: 5.5 miles along Curlew Lake, and 7 miles from the community of Curlew and extending north along the Kettle River. “It’s a near-wilderness experience on a flat, smooth surface,” says Keith Bell, vice president of Ferry County Rail Trail Partners. Expect wildlife sightings and waterfront views, and be sure to check out 770-foot trestle at the north end of Curlew Lake. Impressive efforts by the Ferry County Rail Trail Partners to continue developing this as a non-motorized trail have earned praise and recognition in Ferry County and beyond, including “Trail of the Month” in October of 2016 by the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, though they have faced opposition from the Ferry County Commissioners. Check progress reports regarding future development at Ferrycountyrailtrail.com.

Columbia Plateau State Park Trail

The Columbia Plateau State Park Trail extends 130 highly scenic miles between the trail ends at Ice Harbor Dam near Pasco and Fish Lake near Cheney. There are two developed sections fit for mountain or hybrid bikes: the 15 miles of the southern segment between Ice Harbor Dam and Snake River Junction (crushed gravel), and the 23-mile northern section between the Fish Lake trailhead in Cheney through Martin Road in Sprague (pavement and crushed gravel), which passes through Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge. The middle 90+ miles are largely undeveloped and recommended only for experienced bikepackers on fat bikes.

Ryan Griffith, an avid biker who works for Spokane’s Parks and Recreation, rode the entire trail with friends this fall over 3 days and 2 nights. He says without hesitation that he would do it again, but he does caution bikers to consider the lack of water and rough terrain, including sections of railroad ballast, steep embankments, and trestles that need to be circumvented. A fat tire bike is a must for these sections. “It would be really, really difficult for a mountain bike,” he says. Griffith enjoyed an up-close look at geologically significant surroundings, like canyons carved out during Ice Age floods. “I was just kind of mesmerized by the terrain,” he says, particularly the section between Lower Monumental Dam and Kahlotus. For those interested in traversing the full trail, Griffith recommends the Rail-to-Trail Conservancy web site traillink.com for information including road bypasses, where to sleep, and gear. “If somebody’s going to do it, they just need to do some long rides and get some miles under your butt,” he says. “Bouncing on the railroad ballast is pretty intense; it’s bone-jarring.” Training with a fully loaded bike is also recommended. “Your bike acts pretty differently when it has a lot of gear on it,” he says. 

John Wayne Pioneer Trail

This 285-mile rail trail extends across Washington state from the Cascades to the Idaho border. Traveled as a whole, bikers will experience a spectrum of Washington scenery including mountains, rolling fields, dense evergreens, and farmland. “The section on the west side up and over Snoqualmie Pass is in very good shape, easy to ride,” says Dan Schaffer, board member of the Inland Northwest Trails Coalition. “Riding the east section is an adventure and is best done with a fat tire bike rather than a regular mountain bike,” he says. For the western section, the trailhead at Cedar Falls through the Columbia River, the trail is developed, with the exception of trail gaps through Ellensburg, and the Trenslow Trestle over I-90 east of Kittitas, which requires a detour. Highlights include canyon-spanning trestles and riding through the Snoqualmie Tunnel, which, at 2.3 miles, is the longest rail tunnel in the world. Overall, east of the Columbia River, “the surface is quite unfinished,” says Schaffer. “Some sections are better than others. I’ve done parts of it with a mountain bike, and it wasn’t terribly pleasant.” Shorter—and more pleasant—segments east of the Columbia include Tekoa to Rosalia and from Rosalia to Rock Lake.

For trail maps and more—including info for those intrepid souls eager to ride the entire eastern section—check out friendsofjohnwaynepioneertrail.org which also posts permit requirements and notices about several sections of the trail that are closed to the public and require detours.

Fish Lake Trail

Access the family-friendly Fish Lake Trail from the trailhead near Spokane’s downtown at Government Way and Milton Street. The paved section is about 9 miles long, running south and then west (paralleling the Cheney-Spokane Road). The trail currently ends at Scribner Road; future plans include extending the trail to Fish Lake. The trail has a very gentle uphill heading out of Spokane. In addition to plenty of bikers, walkers, and runners of all ages, “we get a lot of people out there pushing baby carriages, people on roller blades, that sort of thing,” says Dan Schaffer. About a mile from the trailhead, the surroundings transition from more urban to wooded, rural terrain. Worth a visit for its easy accessibility, both in terms of ride-ability and proximity.

NPOV Lions Club Railriders

After the closure of the North Pend Oreille Valley Lion’s Excursion train ride from Ione to Metaline Falls in 2016, a new idea was born: railriders! Now in its inaugural season, these pedal-powered vehicles cruise along the railroad tracks. Plan about 1.5 to 2 hours for the 12-mile ride, including some instruction time. Each group departs from Ione and is accompanied by a Lions Club host. Those familiar with the former train route should expect a fresh perspective on the area. “The route includes areas the train did not go through: pasture land, Little Muddy, Big Muddy, and Cedar Creek trestle,” says Gayle Pollock of the NPOV Lions; you’ll also pedal up to Box Canyon Trestle and have views of Box Canyon Dam. This is a very family-friendly excursion, with railrider seats adjustable for children (seatbelts required for all riders); infants worn in a baby carrier by an adult ride for free. Watch for bald eagles, osprey, white-tailed deer, and wildflowers. Advance reservations encouraged. Lionsrailriders.com.

 Selkirk Loop

This 280-mile international scenic drive or bike ride circles through the Selkirk Mountains of Washington, Idaho, and British Columbia. If touring by road, “for the most part you are riding in the valley with the mountains all around you,” says Stephanie Sims, Executive Director of the International Selkirk Loop. “There are days with rollers, but not significant elevation gains. If you enjoy the climb, we do have some passes you can take to do just that, but there are other routes to avoid them if you wish.”

There are many possible side trip rides, and it’s easy to break the loop down into shorter segments, with something for everyone: road touring, rail trails, and fat tire trails. Wherever you go, expect amazing scenery: think wildlife, mountain and lake views, and river canyons. Landon Crecelius has biked two Selkirk Loop segments. “The Canadian section was pretty great!” he says. “We had a blast riding past the Glass House”—a castle-like structure constructed entirely of empty embalming fluid jars, which overlooks Kootenay Lake—”riding the Balfour Free Ferry, and then sleeping in Nelson at the Hume.” More details, and the option to order a free cyclists’ guide to the Selkirk Loop and offshoot rides, at selkirkloop.org. //

Take the Stress out of Bike Touring with ROW Adventures

ROW Adventures is now offering self-guided Inland Northwest bike tours, with options of four, five, or six-night packages. Rates include bike rentals (Marin hybrid bikes with front suspension), lodging, luggage transfer, route descriptions and maps, and trail side assistance and emergency support. The pre-set itineraries and prearranged accommodations mean you can take your mind off logistics and focus on enjoying each day’s scenic ride. Legs range in length from 15 to 37 miles. Each of the three tour packages offer specific routes. All tours include the Centennial Trail from Spokane to Coeur d’Alene and sections of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, and culminate in a downhill ride through and across the tunnels and trestles of the historic Route of the Hiawatha Trail. At the end of the tour, ROW provides transportation back to Spokane. Rowadventurecenter.com. //

Feature photos: Dreaded basalt rock along the infamous, undeveloped middle section of the Columbia Plateau Trail. // Courtesy of Mark Schneider

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The north entrance to the Hells Canyon NRA on the Oregon side is delineated by only a cattle guard and barbwire fence and is accessed via Asotin, Wash., along the Snake River and past Heller Bar and the Grand Ronde River. We start the trip with a 5-mile ride up Horse Creek Road—the old trail connecting the Lewis and Clark Valley with Enterprise, Ore. We top out at 4,600 feet and consider our imminent descent into a gorge deeper than the Grand Canyon. “This is exactly what I needed this weekend,” says my riding companion, an outdoor education faculty member at the University of Idaho.

That’s the thing about canyons—unlike mountains, you put forth all your effort getting out rather than going in. This meant a lengthy hike-a-bike on the way out, an ominous thought when we woke the next day. Canyons are also warmer, making a November trip into Hells Canyon possible and preferable since both rattlesnakes and poison ivy are both less thick. Rugged and inaccessible, we relish the idea that we may have this vast “wilderness” to ourselves and think of our hero, Edward Abbey. We think he would appreciate it, too.

After wearing out a brake pad and losing 3,200 feet in just 7.5 miles, we end up at Jim Creek Ranch, which is now used only seasonally and solely by the forest service. We notice the enormity and sheer silence of the surrounding area and compliment ourselves on our choice of bikes and bikepacking gear to get us to this place. We set up camp, ditch the bikes, and hike along trails carved and blasted from rock by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1920s and 30s. We pass ancient Nez Perce pit houses, the silence only broken by the occasional brassy warble of jet boat engines reverberating off 250 million year old basalt. Wary of an early nightfall, we make our way back. The trail is hard to follow, with game and stock trails crisscrossing the terrain. Recent wildfires and grasses further conceal the trail.

Dinner consists of packaged curries and rice, kippered snacks, salami, wine, and whiskey. An owl swooshes past. The stars are brilliant. We manage to chat until the weariness in our legs sends us to our tents. Mice and packrats shuffle here and there, but otherwise we hear nothing.

In the morning, we realize we both forgot toilet paper and toothpaste, but it’s okay because we have hot water on our minds. The path, used more by migrating elk than people, is choked by blackberry brambles that fray our clothes and nick our exposed skin. We pass trees with fresh, massive scratches: bear. Chuckar blow up at our feet like grenades and flutter away in cackling masses. When we finally stumble to where the soaking pool should be, it seems to have vanished. Runoff from last winter has erased the cobble-lined tub. Fortunately, the 101° hot seeps remain and are easily located. In quick time, we dig another ankle soaker. I notice the nearby rock-lined enclosure, purported to be a soaking pool used by the Nez Perce. Our feet, soaked and nursed by the mineral-rich waters, are now ready for the 4,800 feet of elevation gain in 5.5 miles.

Our minds, however, are elsewhere. We try to ride but, when the granny gear isn’t enough, we end up pushing our 45-pound bikes. Thoughts of Reuben sandwiches, Philly cheese steaks, and pitchers of beer keep us going. Eventually, we reach the canyon rim and eagerly await 4G so we can Instagram and Strava our journey and start dreaming up the next one. // (C. J. Filip)

C. J. Filip is a National Guardsman and health inspector who lives in Moscow, ID with his girlfriend and six chickens on a self-proclaimed “urban homestead.” This is his first story for Out There Venture.

Feature photo: C. J. Flip

Originally published in the March 2018 print edition of Out There Venture under the title “Hell on Wheels: Bikepacking Hell’s Canyon’s Forgotten Corner.”

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Although I am an avid commuter and recreational cyclist, I have only ridden a fat bike once—and it wasn’t in the snow. So, my biggest question is: with all the winter sports available to us here in the Inland Northwest, why ride a fat bike when the snow flies?

“It’s just plain fun,” says Dave Nelson, one of the three founders of the Northwest Fatbike community on Facebook. “I have never seen someone get on a fat bike and not smile ear-to-ear.”

Mike Gaertner, owner of Vertical Earth bike shop in Coeur d’Alene and the first to sell fat bikes in this area, has seen his fat bike sales double since 2014. “It’s a fun winter activity,” says Gaertner. “You can be an avid skier or snowmobiler on the weekends, but fat biking doesn’t have to be a weekend thing. It can just be a couple hours on a weekday evening, which makes it versatile.”

Jay Davis, a long time Coeur d’Alene resident, rides different bikes during the warmer months, but almost solely pedals his fat bike in the winter. After snow biking for almost three years, he prefers it to snowboarding and skiing. “I’m not an adrenaline junkie,” he says. “The bike is more stable and less nerve-racking than throwing myself down a hill.” He also makes the point that, for some people, making a one-time fat bike purchase is probably more affordable than getting the gear, clothing, lift tickets, passes, and everything else needed to ski or board every season.

How to Get Started

Pretty much every bike shop in the Spokane area and North Idaho now carries or is beginning to demo fat bikes. “There’s a lot more availability,” says Gaertner. The perks of browsing at your local shop are that you can ride before you buy, find the perfect fit and color, and take advantage of the service and community each shop has to offer.

When picking a place to snow bike, start with spots specifically groomed for fatties. If there’s nothing close by, choose an area with snowmobile trails. “Avoid super soft snow,” says Gaertner, “and deep powder that hasn’t been packed.” Instead, look for “packed trails with a corduroy finish, about 84 to 168 inches wide,” says Ryan Griffith, Assistant Parks and Recreation Director in Spokane.

Finally, make sure your tires are 3½ inches or larger, reduce your psi to 10 or lower, and don’t forget to pick up a helmet and a good headlamp. Oh, and pray for snow.

Where to Ride

State Parks and County Trails

Last winter, Farragut State Park began grooming their ski and snowshoe trails to accommodate fat bikes, and there are miles of groomed, multi-use trails around Sandpoint, Lake Pend O’reille, Priest Lake, Round Lake, and other snowmobile, cross-country, and snowshoe areas in North Idaho and Eastern Washington.

Around Spokane, Ryan Griffith plans to coordinate with both Trail Maniacs and Wheelsport, who have both purchased fat-bike specific groomers, to provide more multi-use access to trails around Spokane, including Antoine Peak, Riverside State Park, and the Dwight Merkle Sports Complex. Using their new groomer, the Trail Maniacs plan “on grooming some of the Canfield trails and possibly some of the Empire trails out of Spirit Lake,” says Dave Dutro.

Fat Bike Community Beta

Join a fat bike group and learn the local trails that open up when the snow flies. Or, take a trip to Winthrop, Wash.; Rossland, B.C.; or the Whitefish Bike Retreat in Whitefish, Mont. and meet other riders and explore new trails. Northwest Fatbikes and Idaho Panhandle Fat Bikers have public community pages on Facebook where they post about events and trip ideas too. The Trail Maniacs group frequently updates its website with snow and trail conditions as well as info on riding opportunities.

Bike Shops

Connect with your local bike shops to join weekly rides and get information about events, destinations, and groups. Once the snow falls, Vertical Earth’s Thursday mountain bike rides turn into fat bike rides. Trek Bicycle Store, also in Coeur d’Alene, hosts monthly Full Moon Fat Rides. Ask your bike tech or check each shop’s calendar of events for a group ride happening near you.

Ski Resorts

The five ski resorts in this area are quickly become more fat bike friendly. Although Mt. Spokane only allows fat bikes on snowmobile trails, Lookout, Silver, Schweitzer, and 49 Degrees North have opened up groomed trails and other routes to fat bikes. These four will also be hosting events for fat bike enthusiasts this season. //

Michal Bennett enjoys exploring the food, drink, waterways, mountains, and culture that makes the Inland Northwest unique. Her recent published adventures include a story about her favorite winter hat and a rundown of snow happenings at local ski resorts.

Inland NW Fat Bike Events

Winter Fat Bike Clinic with Jay & Tracey Petervary (Feb. 9-11, Whitefish, MT)

Learn from and ride with winter fat bike riding experts. The Whitefish Bike Retreat near Whitefish, Mont., is hosting Jay and Tracey Petervary, two winter fat biking legends, to share tips, tricks, and knowledge for riding in the snow. There are only 15 spots available for this clinic at the Whitefish Bike Retreat, a beautiful, bike-centric lodging facility with 17-miles of maintained fat biking trails at its door. The clinic is geared for both newcomers wanting to learn more about fat biking as well as long-time riders looking to pick up more advance techniques to ride farther through more difficult terrain. Topics covered will include how to dress, moisture management, tire pressure, how to read the snow, how to handle the bike on the snow, gear suggestions, bike setup, safety and many more topics. The cost for the weekend, including lodging, most meals, and guided rides and instruction, is $550 per person. Learn more or sign up at Whitefishbikeretreat.com.

4^th Annual Fatty Flurry Fest (Jan. 27, Sagle, ID)

Load up your fat bikes and head to Round Lake State Park near Sandpoint for this 4^th annual celebration of winter riding sponsored by Greasy Fingers Bikes N Repair. Free fat bike demos will be offered from 10 a.m.-12:30 p.m., with group rides kicking off at 1 p.m. Greasy Fingers fat bike rentals are available for the group rides (reservations required, call 208.255.4496). Riders must be at least 18 years of age for demos and group rides. Warm up around the bonfire and enjoy refreshments with your fatty-riding pals after the group rides. An Idaho state parking pass is required. Sponsored by Greasy Fingers Bikes N Repair.

Trail Maniacs Snowshoe & Fat Bike Race (Feb. 11, Silver Mountain Resort)

All ability levels are welcome to participate in this fun and challenging race on snowshoes or a fat bike. The 2.2 mile loop course starts at the bottom of Silver’s tubing hill and follows the snowshoe trail with moderate climbing. Choose from two laps (4.4 miles) or four laps (8.8 miles). Helmets and fat bike with a minimum of 4″ wide tires are required. Info: Silvermt.com

Up, Down, Round & Round (Feb. 25, Lookout Pass)

Choose from two laps on a fat bike, two laps on skis or a splitboard, or one lap on skis or splitboard followed by one lap on a fat bike. The fat bike course starts at Lookout’s base area and heads up Grub Stake and then up Huckleberry Ridge. The decision of how far up and where the turn off is will be decided the morning of the race based on weather and snow conditions. The $15 entry fee includes a lunch voucher. More info: Skilookout.com. // (OTM)

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