bouldering Archives - Out There Venture https://outthereventure.com/tag/bouldering/ Sat, 20 Aug 2022 03:57:06 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://outthereoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/cropped-OTO_new-favicon-32x32.jpg bouldering Archives - Out There Venture https://outthereventure.com/tag/bouldering/ 32 32 New Spokane Bouldering Guide https://outthereventure.com/new-spokane-bouldering-guide/ https://outthereventure.com/new-spokane-bouldering-guide/#respond Fri, 19 Aug 2022 02:02:10 +0000 https://outthereventure.com/?p=51398 Newly-published "Spokane Bouldering" guide, by Nate Lynch and Shane Collins, features over 700 boulder problems in Spokane, Wash.

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A newly-published Spokane Bouldering guide, by Nate Lynch and Shane Collins, is now available to buy.

Spokane has needed a quality bouldering guidebook about as long as the city has needed a north-south freeway. Lynch and Collins initially started writing this guide almost 10 years ago. Both guys are solid climbers with outstanding climbing resumes, and they were passionate about creating a chronicle of all the great boulder problems in the Spokane area.

Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations without the use of ropes or harnesses. Climbs generally vary between eight to 15 feet, and the climbers frequently use crash pads on the ground to protect them in case they fall.

The Spokane Bouldering guide features over 700 boulder problems from beginner to expert. It also includes important historical context, quality climbing photos, and historic notes about various locations. Both authors did extensive research with local bouldering legends, including George Hughbanks, Arden Pete, Marty Bland, Johnny Goicoechea, Bryan Franklin, Alex Nikolayev and Steve Moss.

A woman wearing a bright blue long-sleeved shirt and black climbing pants is reaching up for a hand hold on a boulder. Below her lays a green safety mat on the ground and a male climber with arms raised spotting her in case she falls.
Bouldering in Spokane: Allyson Cochrane climbing an unnamed boulder at McClellan, officially called Fisk State park. // Photo: Jon Jonckers

All that research and years of work show . The book is over 240 pages, which means it’s thicker than the Loomis, Bland, and Speaker climbing guidebooks combined.

More importantly, Collins and Lynch paid close attention to property lines, and confirmed that all of these boulder problems are on public land or on Craiglandia (private land near Tum Tum with public climbing permission.) The book also includes 65 projects—difficult climbs that are waiting for their first ascents.

Eastern Washington has been a climbing hotbed for decades and home to two of the best indoor climbing gyms in the nation, Wild Walls and Bloc Yard. The region also features a diversity of climbing on basalt, granite, and limestone rock.

So it’s no surprise that there has been a spike of climbing activity at many local climbing areas. For example, in recent years, the Fisk State Park, more commonly called McClellan, has seen a sharp rise in rock climbing development, especially bouldering. This place, featured prominently in the guide, is a wonderland for climbing and bouldering.

Arguably the hardest boulder problem in the guide is The Elitist (V12) at Tum Tum. Additional noteworthy climbs include Revolution, Love Taker and the Middle Finger of Fury. All of these climbs require a lot of fortitude, and mental preparation.

Spokane Bouldering ($35) is available online at Sharp End Publishing, or you can purchase the book at Inland Northwest outdoor gear stores, including Rambleraven Gear Trader and REI Spokane.

Find more stories about bouldering and climbing in the OTO archives.

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Spokane Teen Qualifies for USA Climbing Nationals https://outthereventure.com/spokane-teen-qualifies-for-usa-climbing-nationals/ https://outthereventure.com/spokane-teen-qualifies-for-usa-climbing-nationals/#respond Mon, 14 Mar 2022 17:20:41 +0000 https://outthereventure.com/?p=50263 Ethan “Buddy” Anderson, 16, from Spokane, Wash., qualified for USA Climbing Nationals, happening July 2022.

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Spokane, Wash.

Sixteen-year-old Spokane climber Ethan “Buddy” Anderson pushed through a series of potential setbacks this winter to advance to the USA Climbing Nationals that will be held this July.

Buddy’s father David Anderson says his son began climbing at the age of nine and was always an athletic child who took to the sport in an instant. One of his classmates was on a climbing team and always talked about it, David recalls.

“We stopped by the gym one day to check it out, and after an hour I knew this was Buddy’s sport, and we bought a membership that day,” says David. “He went to nationals for the first time six months later. He does things I’ve never dreamed of doing.”

Buddy’s focus has always been on indoor and outdoor bouldering with a goal of World Cup and Olympic competition. However, after several unrelated injuries, he took a step back from climbing for a couple years.

Ethan Anderson hanging from handholds while bouldering -- climbing without harness or ropes.
Ethan Anderson competing at USA Climbing regional championship competition. // Photo courtesy Anderson family.

Rested and invigorated, he collaborated with his coaches Ben Aguilar and Sam Carter at Bloc Yard Bouldering Gym in Spokane to make another run for nationals.

Finishing the regular season this past winter ranked number one in Division 1 (Alaska, Washington, and Oregon), he prepared for the championship series. Shortly after dealing with a bout of Covid, Buddy competed at regional championships in January.

Despite his weakened state, he was able to move on in the series. Then, two weeks before the divisional championships in February, a 35-pound weight dropped on and mangled Buddy’s toe. For a moment he thought all his work and dreams had suddenly flown out the window. 

Fortunately, Buddy was able to heal quickly enough to force his shoes on, fight through the pain, and qualify for nationals with a 5th place finish (only the top six from each division advance to nationals).

Nationals is an annual seven-day event and qualifier for the USA National Team that competes at World Cup and in the Olympics. To get an invitation to the team, a climber must be in the top four. The last time Buddy went to nationals in 2017 he placed 5th.

Nationals includes several climbing disciplines, including sport, speed, and bouldering. Buddy will compete in bouldering with a total of 50 competitors from around the country in each bracket over three days of climbing that include four boulder problems each round with four minutes allotted to complete each problem.           

Now almost completely healed, Buddy is hard at work preparing for the national stage. The Spokane climbing and outdoor community has always been there to support and encourage Buddy along the way.

Wish him luck if you see him training at Bloc Yard, Wild Walls, or bouldering outdoors when the weather warms.

Ethan Anderson on the bouldering climbing wall during competition while spectators look on.
Ethan Anderson competing at USA Climbing regional championship competition. // Photo courtesy Anderson family.

Read more climbing stories.

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