As a newbie fly fisherman, there are many wild trout waters I’ve floated or hiked by over the years that I intend to fish in the coming decades. Fernie is a top-of-the-list fly fishing travel destination I hope to check out for the first time this fall.

The Elk River, which flows right through town, offers anglers a shot at monster trout with plenty to do off-water, from mountain biking and hiking, to golf and exploring the pubs and restaurants in the historic downtown.

For me, this article is field research for what will hopefully come to pass as one awesome fall road trip.

The Elk River

The Elk River flows 140 miles from the dramatic peaks of the Continental Divide in the Canadian Rockies (specifically the Pétain Glacier next to Mt. Joffre) to Lake Koocanusa at the U.S. border. The stretches of river up and downstream from Fernie offer clear, clean, and cold water that trout thrive in.

The Elk River, so I’m told, has a reputation as one of the finest dry fly-fishing rivers in North America for Westslope Cutthroat and Bull Trout.

Local guide and shop owner Paul Samycia explains the allure of the Elk River this way: “The Elk River has what all fly anglers are looking for. A beautiful, free stone river with spectacular scenery, wild native fish eager to take a dry fly, miles and miles of wade-able and drift-able water with a great small town to base your adventure out of.”

The Catch

Locals laud the Elk River’s large population of Westslope Cutthroat Trout and their incredible color and spotting. These wild fish cruise the river’s surface in search of the flying insects that hatch in the warmer valley surrounding the town of Fernie.

While Bull Trout are hard to come by and protected in many waters in the U.S., it’s game on for this aggressive, hard-fighting fish around Fernie. Reportedly, resident Bull Trout on the Elk River above the Elko dam are regularly 20-30 inches or bigger.

Where to Fish Near Fernie, B.C.

Whether you are planning a DIY trip or looking for a guide, Tourism Fernie provides this excellent overview Elk River fishing beta that will help you get started for your trip to the north:

From the town of Sparwood down, the river gains momentum and girth. From Sparwood to Olsen, the river is known for big, greedy Westslope Cutthroat, long boulder sections, countless riffles and deep corner holes.

From Olsen to the hamlet of Hosmer is drift-boat heaven. Hosmer also has a boat launch and is a good place to start or finish a day. Hosmer down to Fernie offers braided sections and some big log jams with magical views of the Lizard Range. Buckets and holes are ripe for the casting on this stretch.

In the heart of Fernie is a boat launch at Dogwood Park with ample parking, a public washroom, and space for multiple boats.

The section from Fernie to Morrissey winds gently through perfect trout water and includes some long deep runs, riffles, and seams. The takeout at Morrissey Bridge has also had some work done recently and there is parking along the road with room for trailers.

Morrissey to Elko is the next haul and should be given a whole day. If you like fishing log jams, this stretch is for you. Some great stretches of wood provide perfect habitat that the cutties stack up under and along.

For more information about fishing the Elk River and Fernie, visit Tourismfernie.com.

Find more stories about fishing as well as adventure travel and recreation in Fernie, B.C. in the OTO archives.

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I’m on a “SLAYcation” road trip around the West Kootenay region of British Columbia visiting the newest mountain bike trails and breweries.

Along with photographer Peter Moynes, the Sprinter van we’re driving is state-of-the-art, complete with a solar-powered beer fridge and in-board air compressor for our bike tires. With it, we’re driving back in time. Not just the age before COVID, but a pre-iPhone time when people actually spoke in person.

Our roadtrip starts on the East Shore, which, as we discover immediately after disembarking the ferry, is like driving back to 2005, because we can’t see anyone on their smartphone.

“The East Shore” is a local term that refers to the area on the east shoreline of Kootenay Lake encompassing Riondel, Crawford Bay, Gray Creek and a few other tiny communities. It can be accessed via Highway 3A from Creston or the Kootenay ferry, the longest free scenic ferry in the world.

At its eastern terminal is the quaint Ladybug Coffee stand, which serves the heartiest breakfast sandwich in the province, and it’s here we realize we can ditch the Trailforks app and just chat up the locals for beta on where to ride, kind of like we all used to do at the turn of the century.

East Shore of Kootenay Lake

The East Shore is a place where social media and texting holds little sway as proven by our immediate connection with a random dude named Evan who we meet at the Ladybug. He asks us what we’re up to, and we say we’re looking for good mountain biking trails. He replies, “Oh, you definitely have to talk with Farley then. He’s responsible for a lot of the new trails here. I was just hanging out with him yesterday. Here’s his phone number.”

We call Farley and he tells us he’s a director of the East Shore Trail and Bike Association (ESTBA), knows all the sanctioned trails intimately, and lists his favorites. He then recommends we speak to Luke, who owns the broom company in Crawford Bay.

Another face-to-face visit, this time with Luke, garners us a list of trails to hit up as well as a recommendation to call Sandy Oates, the president of ESTBA, for more. “Here’s his number,” says Luke. 

We decide to hit a sanctioned network on the peninsula between Crawford Bay and Pilot Bay. It includes the beautiful Height of Land trail that offers a unique experience: viewing the Kokanee Glacier from the warmth of a Ponderosa pine forest. Whenever we stopped to take in the stellar views, I was overwhelmed by the cozy smell of the trees, reminiscent of hot-buttered movie theatre popcorn.

ESTBA oversees over 30 kilometers of trails around these parts and we highly recommend visiting—not just for the riding, but for the experience of meeting locals who’d rather spend time talking to you than staring at their phones.

No trip to the East Shore would be complete without a stop at the Gray Creek Store, our favorite purveyor of everything from wood stoves and cutlery to candy bars and fishing tackle. Talk about taking a step back in time. We wish there were more places like this in the world.

Kaslo and Ainsworth

The trip to the East Shore built up our appetites, so after returning across the ferry we immediately hit Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort for a bite. The hot springs have historical significance to the Ktunaxa people, who refer to them as “nupika wu’u” or “Spirit Water.”

Ainsworth is, indeed, an amazing place to rejuvenate your spirits, especially since undergoing many renovations after being sold to the Lower Kootenay Band of Creston in 2015.

All we had time for was a restoration of our energy with food and beer, but we enjoyed the redesigned restaurant, which offers beauty views of the surrounding mountains and Kootenay Lake.

We were in a race against the light, so booked it north where we’d heard of a new art installation tucked amongst the trees of the Kaslo River Trail. We parked at the northern trailhead, crossed the covered bridge, and it wasn’t long before we spotted the statues peeking out behind moss-covered boulders.

Designed by the Koots Artist Collective, a group of three artists from the community of Argenta, these life-sized figures are popping up all around North Kootenay Lake. The largest concentration of them are alongside this three-kilometer loop trail in Kaslo, which is appropriate, as the woods here are the perfect environs for pixies, fairies, and other whimsical creatures. The kids will love this one.

When it was too dark, Peter and I drove the five minutes into downtown Kaslo, doffed the bike gear, and hit the Angry Hen Brewery for a flight. Brewmaster Shirley Warne established this craft brew pub in 2017 and she was there holding court with a number of other locals when we arrived. We enjoyed plenty of tasty brews with such names as Kluckin Kölsch, Tough Old Bird, and Roostertail (my favorite) before Peter insisted we stagger around the sidewalks snapping photos.

Eventually we walked up Front Street to the Kaslo Hotel where we enjoyed more beer and at some point went to our room, which I’m told by Peter was very stylish, comfortable, and had a beautiful view of Kootenay Lake. I liked the pillows.

Nelson

The following day was spent recovering in our hometown of Nelson. Normally we’d be excited about visiting the various breweries here on assignment, but, given the superfluous swilling in Kaslo the night before, we can only share with you our list of the best breweries and trails here based on decades of drinking and riding.

The craft brew establishments include Nelson Brewing Company, Backroads, and Torchlight. Visit them all. Like Kaslo, Nelson is small enough that the breweries are within walking distance of one another. But I recommend drinking more responsibly than we did to avoid a hangover.

For family-friendly riding, check out Fairly High Trail off Giveout Creek Road. For perfectly buff downhill, visit the Morning Mountain trails. As for old-school fun, hit the Mountain Station network. Info for all these can be found through the Nelson Cycling Club.

Originally published as “Bikes, Beer, and One Big Lake in Canada” in the July-August 2022 print issue.

Vince Hempsall lives in Nelson, BC, where he spends his time rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and mountain biking (when not working). He is the editor of “Kootenay Mountain Culture Magazine.”

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By Vince Hempsall

There aren’t too many places in North America where you can enjoy a bike ride in the morning, visit a winery in the afternoon, fish for trout in the evening and cap the day off with a visit to a natural hot spring, all within a 10-mile radius. Located in southern British Columbia, an easy three-hour drive from Spokane, Washington, the Arrow Lakes region is the perfect autumn road trip because of its incredible bounty, both in food and activities, with everything in easy driving distance. 

From its northern end near the village of Nakusp, which boasts two nearby hot spring resorts, to the southern end near the Canadian/American border just south of the city of Castlegar, the 100-mile-long Arrow Lakes region is connected by a quiet highway that winds its way through beautiful valleys in the Selkirk mountain range. The road follows alongside the large waterways of Slocan Lake and the Arrow Lakes system, which are connected by the Columbia and Kootenay Rivers and pass through five provincial parks and other swaths of stunning wilderness. In between are quaint communities featuring inns, hotels, B&Bs, campsites and cabins, with access to backcountry lodges. Below are some itineraries that highlight the autumn bounty of the Arrow Lakes region.

Locally grown Fall fare

The fertile lands of the Slocan Valley and Arrow Lakes attracted pioneers to the area a century ago and small-scale farming traditions continue here. There are now about 40 farms and food producers located in the Slocan Valley alone and their offerings are available at road-side stands and farmer’s markets throughout the autumn months.

To wash down your fresh food findings, there are makers of every kind of craft beverage in the Arrow Lakes region. Start your tour in Castlegar with a visit to Tailout Brewing, which offers a variety of beers made on site as well as a spacious setting and custom art reflecting the staff’s love of fishing. The next stop is Tonik Distillery in the southern Slocan Valley, famous for its flavored vodkas and “Old Tom” gin. At the northern end of the valley is the appropriately-named Valley of the Springs Winery. Lounge in their tasting room or by the outdoor fireplace, take in views of the surrounding mountains and enjoy a bottle of red, white or rose, all made on site. If your taste buds prefer something a little more tart, visit the nearby Burton City Cider. Located on a 30-acre farm with sheep, chickens, a llama, and an orchard, the family-run business offers pizza nights and lunches, with a variety of made-on-site ciders on tap.

Once you’ve gotten your food fix, it’s time for some active fun. The Arrow Lakes region specializes in all forms of outdoor enjoyment from the human-powered, like hiking and biking, to motorized experiences such as ATVing and boating.

Fish your way through the region

Hire a Castlegar guide to show you the secret fishing holes on the Columbia River or Lower Arrow Lake where you’ll find some of the largest kokanee salmon in the world, as well as rainbow trout and walleye. Or cast your line into any other river or lake in the Slocan Valley, including Summit Lake and the stocked Box Lake, both perfect for family outings. The northern end of Arrow Lakes is popular for its quiet spots to fish from a boat launched at the Nakusp Marina.

Bike the many trail networks

If dry land is more your preference, there are innumerable hiking and biking trails in the area. For example, between the two resorts of Halcyon Hot Springs and Nakusp Hot Springs, you’ll find the Mt. Abriel Recreation Area, a lakeside campsite at the foot of a mountain biking zone that now includes more than 60 trails ranging from beginner to expert. Further south in the valley are many converted railway beds which are perfect for bikers and walkers looking for mellower terrain with monumental views. Closer to Castlegar, another former rail bed, the C&W Trail, runs alongside Lower Arrow Lake and through tunnels before veering south and west for 95 miles. Castlegar’s Merry Creek and Rialto mountain bike trail networks are also popular with riders of all levels and age groups.

Hikes for any type of adventurer

Hiking is a popular autumn pastime in this region because the larch trees turn yellow and the alpine slopes become canvases of every shade of green and gold. There are many places throughout the Slocan Valley where you can hike high into the mountains, but for trails closer to the road, there are seven excellent ones near Nakusp Hot Springs ranging in length from 0.5 to 5 miles. Another family-friendly outing is the Yellow Pine Nature Trail in Syringa Provincial Park near Castlegar that offers views of Arrow Lake from a terraced hillside. In fact, the region’s five provincial parks boast everything from beautiful waterfalls, rock climbing cliffs, lakeside camping spots, as well as plenty of wildlife, from bighorn sheep and elk to bufflehead ducks and ospreys. 

Find more travel stories about Canada in the OTO archives.

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An easy four-hour drive from Spokane, the Arrow Lakes region—which includes Castlegar, the Slocan Valley, and Nakusp—is a family-friendly paradise complete with hot springs, lakeshore hikes, mountain bike trails, vineyards, innumerable paddling opportunities, museums, galleries, a ghost town, and plenty of fishing holes for every type of angler.

The best part of visiting the region from April to October is the lack of visitors. Popular destinations in Montana, Idaho, and Washington are overrun with people in the summertime, but in the Arrow Lakes region of British Columbia, you’re more likely to spot wildlife than human life. It’s simply the best-kept secret for American families who live within a day’s drive of the border.

Named for the 144-mile long Arrow Lakes system and the 1,000-foot deep Slocan Lake, the region encompasses three valleys resting on either side of the Selkirk Mountains, connected by the Columbia and Kootenay rivers. Appropriately shaped like a diamond, the region’s southern end is near the Canadian/American border just south of Castlegar and extends both northwest to Upper Arrow Lake and the community of Fauquier, and also northeast up the Slocan Valley to Nakusp and Halcyon Hot Springs.

Given the plethora of water, it’s the perfect place for families to visit for a long weekend, a week, or an entire month. There are five provincial parks in the region including McDonald Creek, Rosebery, Summit Lake, Syringa, and Valhalla, as well as many private campgrounds and recreational sites where you can set up a tent or park an RV. If your basecamp needs to include more amenities, there are also many hotels, inns, lodges, B&Bs and cabins to suit a range of group sizes and needs.

Below are some suggested daily itineraries in the Arrow Lakes, based on your family’s interests.

Water Ways

From lakes and rivers to streams, ponds, waterfalls and hot springs, there is no shortage of water in the Arrow Lakes region. Fishing, paddling, boating, swimming and beach-side camping opportunities abound.

Families with small children will want to start their visit with a swim in the natural ponds on the shores of Columbia River at Millennium Park in Castlegar. This is the largest urban park in the region where you’ll find beach volleyball courts, a bike park and plenty of shoreline fishing spots.

Nearby, there are beautiful waterfalls and lakeside camping spots at Syringa Provincial Park on the shores of Lower Arrow Lake. This is where one of the world’s largest Kokanee salmon was caught. You’ll find excellent trout and walleye fishing here and on the Columbia River.

After exploring the Arrow Lakes near Castlegar, drive east to the Slocan Valley to join a guided rafting trip with Endless Adventure. You can also rent kayaks, paddleboards and safety equipment, then go play in the Slocan River or on Slocan Lake.

Continuing north, be sure to stop at Summit Lake and Box Lake, where you’ll find excellent trout fishing. Then take your pick of hot springs to visit, including the community-owned Nakusp Hot Springs and the luxurious Halycon Hot Springs Resort.

Silvery Trail

Silver mining is what drove development in the Arrow Lakes region in the mid to late 1800s, leaving behind historical locations and mining memorabilia.

Start your adventure in Castlegar, the Sculpture Capital of Canada. Visit the perfectly preserved Railway Museum and Doukhobor Discovery Centre that is home to 10 historical buildings that recreate the culture of the pacifist farming people who profoundly shaped this region in the early 1900s.

From there, drive northeast along the Slocan Valley to the quaint former mining towns of Slocan, Silverton, and New Denver. Nearby is the ghost town of Sandon where you’ll still see many of the old buildings, including the old city hall and powerhouse.

Finish your historical tour at the recently remodeled Nakusp Museum to view artifacts from homes impacted by flooding of the valley in 1960s when the Hugh Keenleyside Dam was built on the Columbia River.

Out and About

If outdoor recreation is more your family’s speed, everything is offered in the Arrow Lakes from hiking and biking to golfing and climbing. There are a dozen rock climbing areas around Castlegar, Lower Arrow Lake, and Slocan City with hundreds of routes for beginners to experts, as well as a burgeoning bouldering scene.

For golfers, in Castlegar you’ll find three courses (as well a disc golf course), plus two other golf courses in the Slocan Valley, one in Nakusp, and one in the tiny community of Fauquier.

Of the many hiking opportunities in the region, some of the best family-friendly ones can be found near the Nakusp Hot Springs. Simply pick one of the seven in the area that range from 0.5 to 5 miles in length, then enjoy a relaxing soak in the hot springs afterward.

There’s also the Nakusp and Slocan Rail Trail, a gentle grade trail converted from a rail line that runs 28 miles from Nakusp to Summit Lake. Road bikers will love the stunning views and lack of traffic in the Arrow Slocan region. Mountain bikers have their pick of hundreds of miles of singletrack, including adaptive trails at Mount Abriel, south of Nakusp, and the Merry Creek Trails in Castlegar that are famous for their hand-built structures and stunts.

Vince Hempsall lives in the beautiful Kootenay region of British Columbia, where he spends his time rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and mountain biking (when not working). He is the editor of “Kootenay Mountain Culture Magazine.”

Find more stories about adventure travel to Canada in the OTO archives.

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The flakes are already flying up north in Canada. And your skis are calling, saying, “Hey you—this winter can we please do a B.C. adventure? I miss soft and fluffy snow on my bases.” Besides, you need to clear your head out, with everything that has built up over the past months (or years).

Let the powdery snow work its magic to refresh the mind, let your soul run wild, and harness all that’s good. Let it all come back. Point ‘em north and explore all the hidden gems we have to offer.

But first, let’s go through what crossing that border looks like these days, followed by a few key places to shred this winter along British Columbia’s Powder Highway.

Don’t Let Paperwork Get in the Way of Powder Dreams

It’s a sweet drive north to Canada from Spokane and North Idaho as farm fields give way to forested hills before you reach one of the many border crossings.

In this evolving COVID era, reaching one of the Kootenay’s quiver of powder pleasers along the Powder Highway (Whitewater, Red, Fernie, Kimberley, and Kicking Horse) requires you to show proof of vaccination and get a COVID PCR test showing negative results within 72 hours of your planned arrival into Canada.

Before you head out, visit ArriveCAN online to enter your proof of vaccination with approved vaccines (Moderna, Johnson, Pfizer and AstraZeneca).

Stop Staring at Webcams—Let’s Do This

There are many ways to experience a Kootenay escape this winter. Here are a few favorite options.

1. Family Escape

To make it easy, the key is slopeside stays. Kimberley’s Trickle Creek Lodge comes complete with a pool and condo-style accommodations, including a kitchen to whip up delights. Right out front is the learning area, separate from regular skier traffic—voila, the kids are taken care of at Kimberley Alpine Resort.

Throw in those epic kids’ trails through the woods for the little rascals, which they’ll dare you to follow them into, and the kids will be over the moon. Don’t worry, there are endless gladed trails for tree skiing and real killer fall-line runs for the ‘rents’ to get their fix here.

2. Snow Dreams

Living in a snow globe is so sweet. To experience it first-hand, head to Fernie, B.C., with its cool authentic mountain town that has it all, from craft shops, to epic eats and some of the best artisan coffee in existence. Let’s focus on Fernie Alpine Resort though, as it boasts the most alpine bowls, biggest vertical, and deepest snow in the Canadian Rockies—of course, that’s why you’re here, isn’t it?

3. Steeps, Chutes, & Champagne

It’s still a secret, so keep it to yourself. Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is the real deal. We’re serious. Honestly, until you try this place, you won’t know what you’re missing. So don’t go another year without experiencing the most chute skiing in North America (over 80 chutes!).

Just think how many people talk about Jackson Hole’s similar terrain when it only has a handful of chutes, and nothing to match the caliber and variety that this Horse has.

But it’s not all gnarly terrain. There are tons of groomers and intermediate trails too. Kicking Horse is also home to the 5^th biggest vertical in North America and Canada’s highest restaurant to boot, perfect for that cheers, eh!

Some Don’t Miss & Additional Details

Be sure to check each ski resort for their COVID safety update section before you go, so you are aware of any required protocols. Currently at ski resorts across British Columbia, all will require proof of vaccination to enter restaurants, and some have that mandate for all indoor facilities.

Be prepared with a mask for lift lines and gondola rides too. But double check the latest before your departure, because as of this writing, many are still working out final details and protocols.

A Few Sweet Kootenay-Local Secrets

Enjoy ski-in and ski-out. Only 50 feet from the lift at Fernie Alpine Resort, stay at Lizard Creek Lodge with its newly-renovated main lodge. You won’t mind the sweet slopeside pool and hot tub either.

Get in your Pod. A new pod hotel experience is now open at Raging Elk Adventure Lodging. Save money, ski more, and enjoy this fun environment in downtown, Fernie, B.C.

Purcell Heli Skiing. Same incredible terrain, awesome guides, and now new ownership are part of the CMH family. They are one of the few daily adventure heli skiing options, so book a date for heli skiing after you have skied a couple days at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. That’s what we call a perfect powder combo.

Powder Matt is a professional ski bum and writer from Kimberley, BC, who lived in his car for 63 days one winter so he could ski every day. He wrote about skiing the Kootenays during the COVID border closure in the March-April 2021 issue of Out There.

This story was originally published in the Out There Snow special section in the November-December 2021 print issue.

Find more stories about skiing in British Columbia its Powder Highway in the OTO archives.

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As the first stop on Canada’s Powder Highway coming from Spokane, Red Mountain Resort’s 110 runs and abundant terrain are what really make the first-class accommodation worthwhile. 300 inches of snow each year, affordable cat skiing ($10/run), and multiple summits accessed by eight chairlifts cater to beginner through expert skiers and riders.  

The Josie is positioned between Red Chair, which charges directly to the summit of Red Mountain (5,219 feet), and the Silverlode Chair, which shuttles you to a cat track and additional chairlifts that access the summits of Granite (6,807 feet) and Grey (6,719 feet). The 360-degree descents from Granite Mountain will have beginner and intermediate skiers enjoying turns toward Paradise Lodge while advanced skiers get frisky on Buffalo Ridge and the adjacent chutes and trees. 

After a day skiing your legs into oblivion, or mingling with other dabblers in the lodge, The Josie’s Velvet Restaurant and Lounge stands out as the most inspired amenity of the resort. The exquisite gravity of executive chef Marc-Andre Choquette’s French-influenced seasonal fare and locally inspired drink menu will pull you back for every meal. It satisfies the most ravenous post-ski appetite with an ingredient-forward take on a classic burger. For a full menu experience, start with crispy Brussels sprouts doused with spicy Korean BBQ sauce. Then enjoy the red and yellow beet salad, garnished with crispy quinoa, puffed wild rice, compressed fennel, and licorice-garlic dressing. Finally, savor the pan-seared halibut and saffron bouillabaisse broth, roasted squash, and squid ink tapioca crackers. For a robust culinary experience, ask your server for wine pairings, and under no circumstances should you skip desert. 

If The Josie sounds out of reach, think again. The 30 percent “Canadian discount” thanks to the strong U.S. dollar makes luxury travel more accessible to everyday Americans. Plus, the hotel honors AAA discounts and offers ski packages for additional savings, as well as a “kids ski, stay, and eat for free all winter long” promotion.  //

Originally published as “Play Hard, Pamper Hard” in the December 2019 issue BC Ski & Winter Travel Guide.

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1. Proper ID: Make sure everyone in your vehicle has a current passport, enhanced drivers’ license/ID, or federally issued passport card (half the price of a passport). You’ll need one of these easy-to-obtain ID options to get in and out of Canada. 
2. Pick the Best Border Crossing: Do your research and choose the right border crossing for the fastest trip to your destination based on distance, road conditions, and time of day (some crossings have limited hours). Making a mistake can add hours to your trip. See our list below of the 7 regional official ports of entry.
3. Leave That Stuff at Home: While Cannabis is legal in both B.C. and Washington, leave your stash at home. Same goes for many fresh fruits and vegetables you may get questioned about, as well as all guns and other weapons, and, for the sake of the American image, any attitude with Canadian border officials. //

Choosing the Best Border Crossing 

Use this border crossing info and a map to make sure you don’t get stuck at a closed crossing or waste time taking the wrong one. 

Osoyoos/Oroville: 24 hours; Use for some Okanagan resorts. 

Midway/Ferry: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Use for Big White/SilverStar shortcut when roads are good. 

Cascade/Laurier: 8 a.m.-midnight; Use for Big White, SilverStar & Phoenix. 

Paterson/Frontier: 24 hours; Use for RED Mountain & Rossland. 

Nelway/Metaline Falls: 8 a.m.-8 p.m. U.S. / 8 a.m.-midnight Canada; Use for Whitewater, Nelson, Ainsworth, Kootenay Pass, Salmo, Nakusp, Revelstoke, Halcyon & Rogers Pass. 

Rykerts/Porthill: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. U.S. / 8 a.m.-midnight Canada; Use for Creston/Kootenay Pass. 

Kingsgate/Eastport: 24 hours; Use for Kimberley, Fernie, Panorama, Fairmont, Radium, Golden, & Kicking Horse. //

For more information on traveling from the U.S. to Canada and travel documentation requirements, visit these official resource pages from the U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the U.S. Dept. of State.

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Daydreaming about Kootenay Pass powder fields, leaving behind cell service and wifi at Whitewater, and navigating frozen Rossland singletrack often inspires me to scold friends for not having a passport or border-friendly driver’s license one minute and then keep my mouth shut the next—the latter selfish act driven by the hope that the much-loved Kootenay-Rockies region of B.C. covered by this guide might magically weather many of the pressures of “progress” while the world around us changes, often for the worse. 

We hope this guide helps you create your own B.C. adventure bucket lists and daydreams. And maybe inspires you to share some wild, wonderous times north of the border with a few of your friends. Or not. We totally understand. //

Originally published as “Our Magical Neighbor to the North” in the Dec. 2019 issue.

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Located in the east Kootenays, 40 minutes from both the Montana and Alberta borders, this community of around 5,000 is still very much a blue-collar mountain town; despite the town’s growing acclaim as a tourism destination, mining and logging are still the top two industries. Pickup trucks line the streets in front of gear and guide shops. In Fernie, flannel has always been in fashion. 

The home hill, Fernie Alpine Resort, boasts the kind of terrain that has made the Powder Highway—the collection of eight ski resorts and dozens of heli- and cat-skiing operations and luxury backcountry lodges linked by 677 kilometers of pavement across the Kootenay Rockies—a world-class ski and snowboard destination.  

From the top of the cloud-piercing Polar Peak chair, it’s more than 3,500 feet of vertical drop back to the base area, with over 2,500 acres that hold a quintet of snow-collecting cirques providing plenty of opportunities for off-piste powder lines. But there’s plenty for the green-circle skier too, and no matter your skill level, the slopeside views enchant. 

Fernie’s unique microclimate sees some 30 feet of snow each year. Time your trip right and you might benefit from the “Fernie Factor,” the resort’s tendency to get unforecasted dumps of snow that result in a surge of “sick days” in Fernie. 

There’s plenty of terrain for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing, too, making use of the extensive trail system surrounding town. Across the valley from Fernie Alpine Resort, the new Montane Trails system offers a mix of meandering singletrack and roadbeds groomed for Nordic skiing and fat-biking. Aspens frame panoramic views of the Lizard Range. 

Meanwhile, Fernie fixture Island Lake Lodge has begun offering non-skiers the opportunity to experience the lodge—previously only accessible to guests on highly coveted multi-day cat-skiing stays—with half-day snowcat and lunch packages that include free time to snowshoe among centuries-old cedars or book a massage at the spa. 

And despite its blue-collar background, downtown Fernie has a hip yet casual dining and drinking scene with frequent live music and a lively nightlife. 

A four-and-a-half hour drive on low-elevation highways from Spokane in good conditions puts Fernie within reach of a long-weekend trip. And an inexpensive ski shuttle from town to the resort, coupled with a walkable downtown core, allow for a vehicle-free visit once there.  

But be warned: spend a few days here and it can be hard going back out of that tunnel. // 

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