The Spokane area is blessed with many great places to hike and enjoy our wide array of wildflowers. Before you go out on your wildflower quest, it’s a good idea to pick up a wildflower book.

My favorite is one I have had in my backpack for a long time: “A Field Guide to Rocky Mountain Wildflowers.” The book has held together really well considering all the use it has had over the years.

Another really good book to have is “Plants of Southern BC and the Inland Northwest.” This book not only has good information on wildflowers but also on trees, shrubs, ferns, and lichen. It is one of my go-to books. It is a little heavy for the backpack but is worth its weight in gold.

As the saying goes, “April showers bring May flowers.” The month of May along with June can bring an explosion of beautiful wildflowers or in some dry years a very disappointing short season.

It is the middle of March as I write this article and I don’t have a crystal ball to tell what sort of wildflower season we will have this year. It could be great or it could be a bust.

All I can do is tell you about some of my favorite places that I have enjoyed during the 40-plus years I have lived in Spokane—and hope it doesn’t get too dry too early this year. Happy wildflower hunting!

Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge (Cheney, Wash.)

This area has probably the best variety of wildflowers in the Inland Northwest. There are many different hiking trails along with a 5-mile auto loop. In addition to all the waterfowl, this 20,000-acre natural area supports a large variety of wildlife, including white-tailed deer, coyotes, beaver, and moose.

Some of the wildflowers you might see are Bitterroot (state flower of Montana), sticky geranium, yellow bells, prairie smoke, camas, and death camas, along with a lot of balsamroot just to name a few. Be sure and check for ticks before you leave the refuge. You don’t want any little hitchhikers going home with you.

Spring wildflowers along hiking trails, including bitterroot (left) and sticky geranium (right). // Photos: Rich Leon

Iller Creek Conservation Area (Spokane Valley, Wash.)

This is one place you will want to bring your camera. Iller has some very unique wildflowers not found in other areas around Spokane. One is Clarkia (a member of the evening primrose family).

Clarkia was named after William Clark of the Lewis and Clark expedition. Other wildflowers include mountain lady slippers, clematis, monkshood, and honeysuckle.

Dishman Hills Natural Area (Spokane Valley, Wash.)

The picturesque cliffs and ravines not only make this place an interesting area to explore but also a wonderful place to find a variety of wildflowers. As you roam around the many trails within Dishman Hills Natural Area, you are likely to find glacier lilies, Rocky Mountain iris, fairy bells, balsamroot, and fireweed.

Mount Spokane State Park (Mead, Wash.)

This is one of my favorite places for wildflowers. I like all the different trails at Mount Spokane State Park for a variety of reasons but especially the Nordic ski trail area because of the beargrass. The area has beargrass every year, but these plants only produce a major bloom about once every seven years.

When a big bloom happens, it is a sight to behold. On the lower part of the mountain (especially trail 100), you can find trillium, mountain bluebells, two different coralroot, bunchberry, paintbrush, and fairy slipper orchids.

Kamiak Butte (Pullman, Wash.)

This spot is about a 60-mile drive south of Spokane but well worth it. Surrounded on all sides by the wheat fields of the Palouse, this 3,650-foot-tall island of pine, fir, and larch has some amazing views.

On a good wildflower year the hillsides can be covered in a sea of yellow from the balsamroot. It is a great place to bring the kids for a self-guided nature walk on the 3.5-mile Pine Loop Trail. Don’t forget to pack a picnic lunch.

Tubbs Hill and Mineral Ridge (Coeur d’Alene, Idaho)

Both of these popular North Idaho natural areas offer some great views, and there are also plenty of wildflowers to see.

Other Notable Inland NW Wildflower Hot Spots

Other areas you might want to visit are Slavin Conservation Area (Spokane), Antoine Peak (Spokane Valley), Little Spokane River (North Spokane), Riverside State Park (Spokane), and the Liberty Lake Conservation Area (Liberty Lake, Wash.)

Please be aware that some areas in Washington require a Discover Pass such as Mount Spokane and Riverside state parks. There is an entry fee for the Turnbull Wildlife Refuge, and other areas such as the Little Spokane River do not allow dogs; all other natural areas require dogs to be on a leash at all times.

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Upper 290 Trail in Mount Spokane State Park is a 2.7-mile connector between the snowmobile lot and the summit. Begun in 2019 with brush clearing, this trail has taken shape slowly as builders with Evergreen East Mountain Bike Alliance worked with State Parks for an approved route.

The work has included professional trail builders machining in portions of trail below the tree line and dedicated volunteers hand-digging trail in the more sensitive ecological habitat higher up.

Staying mindful of fire risk, crews have worked all summer and are within one-tenth of a mile of completion. Experienced riders will enjoy the top half of the trail with its steep, rocky, technical riding that moves into a fast, flowy ride as it nears the snowmobile lot and The Goods trail that continues down the mountain.

The trail is expected to officially open in summer of 2022. More information about this trail project is available at Evergreenmtb.org.

Learn more about the Mount Spokane State Park Comprehensive Trail Plan published by the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission and revised in 2014.

For more stories about mountain biking trails around the Northwest visit the OTO archives.

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Like many popular outdoor recreation attractions, Mount Spokane State Park, including Mt. Spokane Ski and Snowboard Area, has experienced increased user visits and crowded conditions and parking lot chaos at times this winter, notes a recent Washington State Parks media statement. In response, the statement says, “Washington State Parks may need to close parts of the park intermittently as parking lots reach capacity” to protect the health of park staff and visitors. Closures when the park reaches capacity had already begun around the holidays and will likely continue throughout the winter on peak visitor days.

Park staff expect the overcrowding and parking lot capacity issues to be mostly outside the downhill ski area, since parking has been more of a challenge for the limited number of parking spots where Nordic skiers, snowshoers, fat bikers, and snowmobilers typically park, and those areas will be closed once the lots are full. Intermittent closures are also likely during big snow events to allow for snow removal equipment to work.

The ski area, on the other hand, “is trying valiantly not to close their parking. They recommend buying day passes in advance because they are limiting entry and can better manage their load that way,” says Meryl Lassen, Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission communications consultant. “People need to call the park when they’re heading up, otherwise, they’ll get to the parking lot and it will be closed (or not). We recommend arriving early—and also having a snow-worthy car and emergency supplies with them.”

For updates, call the park at 509-238-4658 and check its website for alerts before heading up. The state park’s alerts can be found at Parks.state.wa.us/549/Mount-Spokane.

“We recommend visitors have a Plan B in case the lots are full,” says Lassen. “And most importantly, we ask people to pack their patience as the 14th essential when heading to the mountain this winter.”

Originally published as “Crowds Lead to Closures at Mount Spokane State Park” in the January-February 2021 issue.

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Even with shorter days and falling temperatures, the Spokane region is rich in natural beauty, and whether you’re looking for vibrant colors, or more of a winter-wonderland atmosphere, there’s something for every hiking aficionado. Here are a few of my favorite local late-season hikes. 

James P. Slavin Conservation Area – Nature Park Loop – 2.4 miles 

Located just south of Spokane, this trail covers a range of landscapes, from forests to wetlands to prairie. Birdwatchers can glimpse a range migrating wildfowl, including Canada geese and sandhill cranes, and the wide-open horizon captures the sweeping grandeur of the neighboring Palouse. A great trail for older hikers and families with kids. 

Antoine Peak Conservation Area – Antoine Peak Loop – 4.8 miles 

This trail takes hikers up through dense woodlands, culminating in views of the Dishman Hills, Mount Spokane, Mica Peak, and even northern Idaho. Deer sightings are common this time of year, and the summit of this trail offers a visual feast of snow-capped hills and autumn hues. A must for any hiker craving a bit of solitude. 

Mount Spokane State Park – Trail 120 Loop – 2.5 miles 

Hidden in the shadow of Mount Spokane, this hike is more approachable than some others in the area, though trekking poles and good footwear are still recommended. This trail boasts old growth stands of western larch, whose needles turn gold in the fall, bathing the understory in a dreamy light. Coupled with amazing views of Mt. Kit Carson, this hike is bright, brilliant, and perfect for sunny days. This hike may turn into a snowshoe depending on the fall weather. Trail 120 starts across the road from Bear Creek Lodge. A fee is charged by the lodge owner for parking. 

Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge – Pine Lake / Headquarters Loop – 1.7 miles 

Situated just east of Cheney, a 20-minute drive from Spokane, Turnbull boasts an extensive network of trails that are well maintained and relatively level, with a broad array of natural wonders to behold. Of particular note is Winslow Pool—a major visual feature of the park, a survey site for Eastern Washington’s Biology department, and a haven for amateur birdwatchers.  

Columbia Plateau Trail – Cheney to Fish Lake – 7.6 miles (out and back) 

Though easily the longest of the trails on this list, it is also one of the most approachable. This hike is part of the Columbia Plateau Trail, which spans 130 miles from Pasco to Cheney, covering much of the south-central part of the state. Its key features include well-paved and bike-friendly paths, numerous scientific displays detailing the regions geological history, and a serene view of Fish Lake. 

Coeur d’Alene – Tubbs Hill Main Trail – 2.5 miles 

While a common misconception holds that the best hikes lie far off the path, many lie tantalizingly close to town. Tubbs Hill, for just one example, presents an appealing option for hikers in Spokane or North Idaho alike. Situated on 130 acres of public land, Tubbs Hill is a popular woodland oasis in the heart of downtown Coeur d’Alene. It boasts well marked trails, accessible terrain, and stone’s-throw proximity to Coeur d’Alene’s numerous dining and shopping opportunities. Best of all, wintertime hikers will find no more stunning view of Lake Coeur d’Alene and its surrounding forests than on a crisp winter morning or in the midst of a gentle snowfall. 

Originally published as “6 Fall & Early Winter Spokane & CDA Hikes” in the Nov.-Dec. 2020 double issue.

Seth Marlin holds a Creative Writing MFA from Eastern Washington University. He is the author of “Five-Star Trails: Spokane,” out now through Menasha Ridge Press. 

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Those who frequent Washington State Parks are familiar with the way their trails follow a number system and any trail names are colloquial. However, follow this route with a GPS tracker, and you’ll clearly see the reason why I have begun to refer to this hike as the Christmas Tree Loop.

Just like any Christmas tree I’ve ever had, it’s slightly lopsided yet lovely. It’s the perfect hike for the transition from late fall into winter, as access is maintained year-round and the trail works well for both hiking and snowshoeing. 

To explore this route, start at the Lower Mount Kit Carson Loop Road trailhead. Note that this parking lot requires a Discover Pass from April 1-Nov.30. It transitions to a SnoPark lot from Dec. 1-March 31, when a SnoPark permit is required instead of a Discover Pass. SnoPark permits go on sale beginning Nov. 1, and anyone intending to use Mount Spokane State Parks trails through the winter months must purchase this pass that helps defray the cost of snow removal in parking lots. Those who don’t snowshoe should try this hike during November before the SnoPark permit is required for parking here. 

Hikers must immediately cross Mount Spokane State Park Drive from the parking area, so it is recommended to carry snowshoes across the road if the snow is deep enough to require their use. In early November the route is generally snow-free for its entirety, but by late November into December either microspikes or snowshoes are generally recommended for this trail.

Start by descending a short distance past the gate on the Lower Mount Kit Carson Loop Road. In approximately 200 feet, trail 110 makes a slight right uphill; turn here to begin the Christmas Tree Loop. After approximately 500 feet, the trail splits again. Turn left to continue on trail 110, immediately crossing Burping Brook on a footbridge.  

There are additional trail intersections at the .1-mile and 0.4-mile mark, but continue on trail 110 by staying right at each of these as the trail begins to climb and makes a series of switchbacks up the mountain. The lower reaches of the trail pass beneath cedar and Douglas fir trees.

By the upper portion of the trail, the forest opens up and includes more subalpine fir along with western larch, some of which may still be showing a little fall color in early November. At the 1.1 mile mark the trail crosses another bridge over Burping Brook, completed in 2019 to help hikers navigate the tricky winter water crossing, and at 2.1 miles hikers reach the top of the “tree” at Saddle Junction. 

Hikers need to take a hard left at this junction to begin the descent on trail 140. The upper portion of the forest on trail 140 is very similar to the climb, but as hikers continue down the trail it transitions onto a drier forest type that includes many lodgepole pine trees. At the 4.1 mile mark the trail exits at Smith Gap.

The snowshoe warming hut is located just across from the point where trail 140 exits. State Parks intends to re-open the warming hutsfor winter, which have been closed for the majority of 2020 due to COVID-19 concerns. Park visitors are asked to wear facemasks if making use of the warming huts and limit the amount of time spent inside.

When the weather is nice, there is also an alfresco picnic table located at Smith Gap, with several others along the trail back to the start. 

To complete the Christmas Tree Loop, turn left at Smith Gap and hike downhill on the Mount Kit Carson Loop Road an additional 1.4 miles to return to the parking lot.

• Round-trip distance: 5.5 miles 
• Rating: Moderate 
• Elevation gain: 1150 feet 
• Map: Free printable maps available at mountspokane.org 
• Getting there: Take State Route 206 to Mount Spokane State Park. From the park entrance, continue approximately 2 miles to the hairpin turn parking lot at the Lower Mount Kit Carson Loop Road trailhead. Parking is on the right, and the trail begins to the left and across the road.  

Holly Weiler is a hiker and trail runner who even tries to slog through the Christmas Tree on running snowshoes. Through her work with Washington Trails Association, she led some of the crews that built the bridges hikers will see on this route.  

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Each year we’re seeing more fat bikes plowing through the snow on trails here in the Inland Northwest, a trend that has also led to more trail grooming throughout the region. From Spokane to Sandpoint, there will be miles of packed trails to roll your over-sized, under-inflated bike tires on this winter if Mother Nature cooperates as expected. Here’s the latest fat bike trail grooming forecast for the winter.

Spokane

If you plan to ride any of the growing miles of groomed fat bike trails in the Spokane area this winter, thank Evergreen East volunteer Frank Benish, who owns his own groomer and spends countless hours advocating for and creating miles of groomed riding for fat bikers. To get it all done, Evergreen leases a groomer from Wheel Sport and Benish also owns his own Snowdog grooming machine that’s super speedy and creates groomed singletrack trails.

Riverside State Park was one of the first trail systems in the region to see trails specifically groomed for fat bikers, says Benish. “It’s been a real good partnership at Riverside and we’re looking to carry that on again this year.” Two winters ago, the park’s partnership with Evergreen turned into 11 miles of groomed fat bike trails, with an expansion to 20 miles last season. Benish says this year could be even better if we get good snow and stable cold temps. “We have permission to groom a larger area at Riverside, and if the forecast cooperates, we will expand beyond 20 miles of groomed trails this year.”

Benish also highlighted some new fat bike trails that are in the works for Mount Spokane State Park. “We got permission to clean up and groom some trails off of lower Kit Karson that make up the Hay Ridge Loop. It’s going to be kind of an advanced thing since it’s really steep going up and down.” Benish says the groomed loop will be around 6 miles roundtrip, with longer, more challenging rides possible by linking up to un-groomed trails. The route will be accessed from the parking area at the hairpin lot, also known as the lower Mount Kit Carson loop road trailhead. 

The 49 Degrees North Nordic Area will also feature fat biking on some excellent groomed trails this winter. Under certain conditions when the snow is firm enough to avoid tires damaging the smooth, groomed trails, says Benish, they also allow fat bikes on the Nordic trails. There are 4-5 miles of trails that make for a more intermediate-to-advanced loop.

Fat biking at Mt. Spokane State Park. // Photos: Frank Benish

North Idaho

In the greater Sandpoint area, there is an ever-expanding network of fat bike trails both groomed and user-packed to explore says owner Brian Anderson. Close to town, the Pend Oreille Pedalers will use their groomer once again to pack down trails for fat bikes in the Pine Street Woods, a fantastic public playground and natural area on the edge of Sandpoint that’s been preserved thanks to the Kaniksu Land Trust. Groomed fat bike trails here, with free access, will expand this year, weather cooperating, to include a few loops totaling around five miles.

Close to Sandpoint, the Western Pleasure Guest Ranch grooms approximately four miles of trails for xc and skate skiing as well as for fat bikes. A pass procured from the lodge is required. Farragut State Park south of Sandpoint grooms two loops with around 10 miles of fat bike riding. A state park pass is required.

Schweitzer Mountain Resort grooms approximately 32K of trails for cross-country, skate skiing, and fat biking. A pass is required, as is brushing up on the resort’s rules and responsibilities to keep bikes from damaging the groomed trails.

To the north, the Boundary County Bike and Pedestrian Trail Committee, known as “9B Trails,” has been preserving and developing a non-motorized trail system around Bonners Ferry that includes several trails that make for great winter riding. The non-profit group has recently gotten their hands on a groomer and, according to Anderson, plan to groom around 6-miles of the Section 16 Trails near Bonners Ferry.

The Priest Lake area will once again have miles of groomed trails open to fat bike riders thanks to Priest Lake Nordic. The non-profit group grooms several trail networks around the lake, including Hanna Flats, the Priest Lake Golf Course, Chipmunk Rapids, Rocky Point, Coolin Mountain, and Priest Lake State Park/Indian Creek. A park and ski permit is required and can be purchased at Hill’s Resort, The Tamrak (market/hardware store), or the Priest Lake State Park. More info at Idpr.idaho.gov.

Coeur d’Alene

Coeur d’Alene fatty riders also have some quality groomed options according to Trail Maniacs founder and avid rider Dave Dutro. “The Trail Maniacs Foundation will groom seven plus miles of trails on Canfield Mountain this year,” says Dutro. “These are what we call winter enduro trails,” he says, warning off those who may show up unprepared for the challenge. According to Dutro, that means these trails come with a difficult climb up (approximately four miles with 1,200 of elevation gain) followed by flowy single track down.

The prized route Dutro recommends starts at the road from Nettleton Gulch then on to the towers, down Trail D and eventually on to Trail 7 and Trail A, finishing down Cave Trail for a total of 8 miles. When you can get after these trails is a question for mother nature, says Dutro. “We start grooming once we have significant coverage at the bottom, in the 4-6” range.”

Palouse (Pullman/Moscow)

Down in the Palouse, MAMBA (Moscow Area Mountain Bike Association) has a groomer and should be doing some fat bike trail grooming on Moscow Mountain again this year. Keep tabs on their good deeds at Bikemoscow.org.

Fat Biking Resources

Looking to connect with other fat bike aficionados in the Spokane area? Reach out to SOFA, Spokane’s Original Fatbike Association on Facebook; It’s a private group that you need to request to be a part of before gaining access to trail and grooming reports, group ride announcements, and other regional fat biking news.

Originally published as “Fat Bike Fandom Spurs Growth in Trail Grooming” in the Nov.-Dec. 2020 double issue.

Trail grooming equipment. // Photos: Frank Benish

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Few people can claim that confronting a mama black bear while mountain biking, seeing a bull moose press its nose against your window, and writing a traffic ticket are all part of a day’s work. Steve Christensen recalls wildlife encounters with nonchalance, as just a few of his many interesting experiences throughout his long career as a Washington State park ranger. Retired since last June, Christensen was manager of Mount Spokane State Park, his third state park assignment during his career, for more than 16 years.

His achievements at the park over the years include establishing the Quartz Mountain Fire Lookout as a rental facility, restoring the Vista House, adding interpretation features to the park, and installing upgraded vault toilets, which visitors definitely appreciate. More highlights include all the successful search and rescue missions, during both winter and summer, and the time he spent listening to park visitors’ share their stories about exciting wildlife encounters.

But most significant is how Christensen improved the trails. “Mount Spokane is all about trails,” he says, and improving and expanding the Nordic ski facilities is one of his greatest achievements. This project included acquiring a cross-country trail groomer and adding miles of Nordic trails as well as trailhead markers. His other related success was expanding the mountain bike trail network. “One of my biggest issues when I arrived was that there were lots of erosion problems,” he says. “Naturally, I loved doing the trail assessment in the spring time. I would mountain bike or run all the trails…[and] see what needed to be fixed…Some rangers thought that was goof-off time for me, but I was working.”

Improving the existing trails and adding new ones were huge endeavors, but Christensen is quick to explain that he didn’t do it alone. “Everything at Mount Spokane involves volunteers….You couldn’t operate Spokane as effectively if you didn’t utilize all the volunteers. I think we have a strength there that is probably one of the tops in the state in terms of all the different user groups that support the state park…We couldn’t have done it without them.” In fact, he cites public investment in the park as one of the reasons for its success. As a result, “Mount Spokane has always been considered one of the ‘icon parks’— a crucial one that needed to stay open…it will be standing when others may not.”

Another part of Christensen’s legacy is a decade of ski patrolling. Although he excels at downhill, telemark, and cross-country skiing, he’s mainly a Nordic patroller. “The majority of time that I patrolled I was in my ranger outfit. If I had to go out to an injury, I would also identify myself as a ski patroller,” he says. “I wanted others to see me as a ranger first, doing what they’re doing, and a ski patroller second.” Now that he’s retired, he wears his red patrol vest rather than a ranger uniform.

His current lifestyle isn’t any less active than his working years—although it does leave time for more diverse activities such as road and mountain biking, kayaking, sailing, fly-fishing, swimming with his grandchildren, and gardening. He is also a volunteer scoutmaster and a cross-country ski and snowshoe instructor for Spokane Parks & Recreation. Christensen considers himself lucky—noting that, even in retirement, “I get paid to do the things I love.”//

Amy S. McCaffree is Special Section Editor and the Out There Kids columnist. She wrote about recommended reading for outdoor families last issue.

Feature photo: Jon Jonckers

Title originally posted in the April 2018 print edition of Out There Venture under the title “Thank You Ranger Steve.”

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From Selkirk Lodge, take Bear Grass trail to see its namesake plant erupt in bloom along the route. At the first junction, try either Sam’s Swoop or Blue Jay, and save the other trail for the return route.

At the second junction, the climb up Eagle Crest provides the first glimpse of Quartz before depositing hikers at Nova Hut. Drop slightly down the hill to reach intersection three and the connecting trail to Quartz Mountain Fire Lookout.

The lookout was originally perched atop Mount Spokane, but was moved to Quartz Mountain for use as a summer rental. From the summit, Newman Lake in Washington and Spirit Lake in Idaho are visible. Day hikers should respect the privacy of those renting the facility. See the Washington State Parks website to learn how to rent the lookout for an extend visit in the park.

The hike is open to hiking, mountain bike and equestrian use. Dog friendly; leash required.

Getting There

Take the Mount Spokane Highway (SR206) to the entrance of Mount Spokane State Park; proceed approximately three miles to the intersection of Mount Spokane Park Drive and the Summit Road. Bear right towards Selkirk Lodge. Park in the main lot in front of the lodge. Discover Pass required. More details about the hiking trail and journey at Wta.org.

For more recreation stories about Mt. Spokane State Park, visit the OTO archives.

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