Whitewater rafting Idaho and Oregon’s Wild & Scenic rivers requires not only a permit for the most popular rivers but also patience and perseverance.

Last Valentine’s Day, a Monday, was when those who applied to run permitted rivers across the West, like me, to receive an email from Recreation.gov. Definitely not a valentine, my message read, “Hi Paul, Thank you for applying for the Middle Fork of the Salmon River Lottery 2022. The lottery drawing recently took place, and, unfortunately, your application wasn’t selected for a permit…”

I got the same message regarding my applications for the (Main) Salmon River, Oregon’s Rogue River, and the Southwest desert run on the Green River through Desolation Canyon. But I’m hardly alone it turns out. Tens of thousands of other river runners received the same jilt that their hopes of enjoying the special solitude a couple dozen permitted rivers in the West offer.

River Permit Arithmetic

Idaho’s permitted rivers include the Salmon River (Main and Middle Fork), Selway River, and Hells Canyon of the Snake River. Lotteries are administered through the Recreation.gov portal. It’s a starting point for coordinating more than just river permits. Camp spots, cabin rentals, and many, many more pursuits are covered.

If someone put in for a permit on the Main Salmon, their odds for 2021 of earning a launch were about one in 16, with 568 winners out of 8,932 lottery players. For the more coveted Middle Fork stretch of the Salmon River, it was a 1-in-19 chance with 597 in-season launches out of 11,432 applicants. Requests for numbers for Hells Canyon and Montana’s Smith River went unanswered.

And if you were chasing after arguably the crown jewel run—Idaho’s Selway River—that falls into the Mega Millions lottery category. For its 62 private party and 78 total launches over the period of May 15 to July 31, 2021, your chances are one in 174. Better put, there is a 99.4% chance that a permit applicant for the Selway will not run the challenging rapids like the Ladle, Wolf Creek, or Ham rapids (all class IV).

Despite yet another permit-less year in a decades-long drought, I cannot complain. In over 40 years of river running, I have been fortunate to run each of the six permitted rivers in the Pacific Northwest, the Smith included, and all except Hells Canyon successfully right side up.

Most have been from invites offered by other successful permit applicants, or a cancellation, except for my daughter snagging a 2008 Selway launch on the last day of permit season. Even at very skimpy flows, just 1.1 feet at the Paradise gauge, one word describes the Selway—spectacular!

A Bit of Idaho Whitewater River History

For decades prior to World War II, Idaho’s Main Salmon was a workhorse river with wooden scows plying its length top to bottom as the best means for supplying the needs of the sparsely populated region. The so-called “River of No Return” got its nickname as these boats were later dismantled following their journey, never to return to starting points like Salmon, Idaho.

Following the introduction of recreational rafting after World War II, the need to try to maintain the pristine setting of the river became necessary. Part of that protection came with inclusion in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act—the Middle Fork as an original in 1968 and Main being added in 1980. Permitting for river trips started in 1976.

River Permit Supply and Demand

The demand has only increased since as with most all recreational pursuits, and participation in whitewater rafting continues to grow rapidly.

“I think people like to blame Recreation.gov as the source of their frustration,” says Kai Allen, outdoor recreation planner from the Bureau of Land Management in Grants Pass, Oregon. “But I think the story is actually much bigger. There’s just this huge demand for incredible iconic experiences in these places, and there just aren’t very many of them.”

There are just 23 permitted rivers in the West, with a quarter of those flowing through the Pacific Northwest. Those, and all other rivers, are getting increasingly popular with recreationalists.

According to America Outdoors, which represents a variety of professional outfitters, “Overall guided rafting visitation has increased by 36% from 837,499 visits to 1,529,909 visits [2018] since data began in 1990.” Anecdotal evidence from the private boating community would likely offer a similar growth pattern when one visits their favorite river.

Inside Look at the Permit Process

For many, the big question is just how does that Wizard-of-Oz-like process go once their application has been received? Rather than try to put it in layperson language, Recreation.gov’s website offers this:

“Each lottery is randomized by shuffling all the applications using the Fisher-Yates Shuffle, which produces an unbiased and random ordering of results. We also use a Cryptographically Secure Pseudo Random Number Generator (CSPRNG) to prevent any inadvertent bias in the lottery process. These random number generators are vetted to produce random numbers that cannot be predicted based upon past outputs, and they don’t allow anyone to predict future or past numbers generated.”

Understand? Sure, it’s as clear as Spokane County’s Latah Creek at flood stage. From complex lottery process, explained above, coveted launch dates magically emerge. For 2022, on the Main Salmon, that’s June 20–Sept. 7; May 28–Sept. 3 for the Middle Fork; and May 27–Sept. 10 for Hells Canyon. Launches vary from five per day on the Snake, to seven each on the Main and Middle, with a maximum party size of 24 per launch.

Oregon’s Rogue River is also one of the original eight streams included in the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. It has embraced a different means to its end result of allowing rafters down the 34 miles of its wilderness stretch west of Grants Pass.

Put in place in 1978, the Rogue’s permit system is also administered by Recreation.gov but caps its use on a person-per-day quota of 120. That’s equally split between private and commercial use for the season that runs annually from May 15 to Oct. 15 with successful applicants having their party size fit into the matrix.

A Few Northwest Wilderness River Alternatives

By now, many river runners in the region are taking a “wait until next year” approach to the prospect of a multiday wilderness rafting experience. But that need not be the case. Even though the more famous and hugely sought-after experiences might not be in the cards this year or next, if you have the necessary whitewater river skills and your own or rented gear, consider alternatives like these nonpermitted but potentially crowded opportunities:

• Deschutes River: The Deschutes (central Oregon) has two sections that include up to Class IV rapids. But it’s a major rail corridor, so a wilderness it is not, especially along its approximately 96-mile course from U.S. 26 access to the Columbia.
• Grande Ronde River: The Grande Ronde (northeast Oregon) offers multiple stretches of roadless river with Class II and a few Class III rapids over nearly 90 miles from Minam to the Snake River.
• John Day River: The John Day (eastern Oregon) forks run about 130 miles with Class II and III rapids in traditional desert canyon landscape.
• Owyhee River: The Owyhee (SE Oregon-SE Idaho) from Rome to Leslie Gulch might be one of the most remote landscapes of any wild river in the Lower 48. It’s 67 miles of high-desert (4,000 feet-plus elevation), has limited windows dictated by snowpack; however, it offers spectacular canyons featuring primarily Class III rapids.
• Lower Salmon River: The Lower Salmon (central Idaho, near Riggins) is often the alternative to jilted permit applicants. It is a true roadless experience with incredible sandy beaches and Class IV rapids.

Recommended Guidebooks

My river running addiction began when his wife bought him Oregon River Tours by John Garren back in 1979 (Garren Publishing, 1979). If you are planning multiday river trips in the region, I strongly suggest having your own library that includes Garren’s other guidebook, Idaho River Tours (Garren Publishing, revised edition 1987) and one written by Willamette Kayak & Canoe Club titled Soggy Sneakers: A Paddler’s Guide To Oregon Rivers (Mountaineers Books, 2016).

Originally published as “River Permit Arithmetic” in the May-June 2022 print issue.

Paul Delaney began his whitewater adventures over 40 years ago and now has 42 rivers and creeks on his resume. He wrote about rafting the Owyhee River in the June 2020 issue. Contact Paul at spokanerafterguy@comcast.net.

The post Rafting Idaho and Oregon’s Wild & Scenic Rivers appeared first on Out There Venture.

Guide: Karoline Woodhead

Years spent guiding: 7

Favorite regional river: Salmon River

When you find something you love in the outdoors, it’s a joy to share it with others. Karoline Woodhead started her rafting career at age 17 which gave her a chance to share her love of rivers. “My favorite thing about guiding is introducing people to new, wild places that I care about and watching them fall in love with them,” she says.

Woodhead started out working as a “swamper” on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, helping guides set up camp on multi-day raft trips. She progressed to leading half-day trips on the Payette River just outside of her hometown of Boise, Idaho. She was then drawn to ROW Adventures because of the many rivers that they run, and the relationships that they promote between the guests, guides, and the wilderness they recreate in. This will be her second season with ROW.

Last season, when the Covid-19 pandemic broke out, guiding brought Woodhead a small sense of normalcy and peace in a difficult year. “River guiding last season was different than normal years, especially knowing that we were coming in contact with guides and guests from all around the country,” she says. Guides adopted extra precautions like mask wearing, cleaning regimens, and social distancing both on and off the river, Woodhead explains. “Even with the changes, I never felt like the experiences or memories of the river were affected.”

This season, Woodhead looks forward to guiding new rivers, taking on new leadership positions, and continuing to hone her skill of gear packing.

Guide: Tom Scarborough

Years spent guiding: 19

Favorite regional river: The Rouge

For Tom Scarborough, whichever river he’s currently rafting is his favorite. This seems a suitable answer for a seasoned river rat.  Following his guide training in 2002, Scarborough has worked as a regular guide, a returning guide leading trips, the manager of the Middle Fork of the Salmon, and is in his 11^th season of managing ROW’s Rouge River outpost.

Scarborough’s favorite thing about guiding river trips is the simple clarity that comes from connecting with nature, both for himself and his guests. “[There’s] the feeling of living at the river’s pace, and being in the moment. I can forget the rest of the world for a little while,” he says. “What goes hand-in-hand with that is the disconnection from the now commonplace connection of email, phone, Internet, and the modern distractions that they create. On a river trip you get to slow down and interact with people the old-fashioned way, face to face.”

That face-to-face interaction was of course a bit different on the river in 2020. Last spring, when the pandemic broke out, Scarborough says everyone was quite nervous, not knowing if the things they were doing to contain the virus would be enough. With the introduction of vaccinations and an increased knowledge about the virus, he is feeling hopeful and better prepared for the 2021 season, though he says he knows it will be important to stay vigilant in the outdoor industry.

“People have seemed very appreciative to have a safer, outdoor vacation to participate in,” says Scarborough of the previous season amongst COVID. “We get to be part of making memories for our guests, and with the in-real-life experiences we take people on being harder to come by, we are helping to ground and connect people a bit more than they have been in a while.”

This season, Scarborough looks forward to building a new crew of river guides and working as a team to bring people those authentic experiences. His favorite part of being a ROW manager is that he gets to teach, mentor, and also participate on the crew trips.

Guide: Kim Cunningham

Years spent guiding: 5

Favorite regional river: St. Joe River

After hearing the story of Kim Cunningham’s first rafting trip, you might not assume she’d end up working as a guide. In November 2016 Cunningham embarked on the Yaak river in Northwest Montana with some friends. She wore mismatched and borrowed cold weather gear and didn’t exactly know what she was in for. As her friends approached a large rapid they planned to portage, they hit a bump and Cunningham flew out of the boat.

“I managed to have my first swim on my very first day of rafting above a big rapid in one of the coldest water temps I have rafted in less than optimal gear, and somehow I still loved it enough to decide to become a river guide,” she says.

Cunningham lives and teaches in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, which puts her at convenient proximity to her favorite river, the St. Joe. She is starting her fifth season with ROW Adventures and has led guided trips all over Idaho. “I love getting to see people experience the river and push themselves to try new things,” she says. “The most challenging thing is managing groups with varying levels of river experience to make sure everyone has fun at their own level and pace.” Last season, there was the extra duty of managing the social dynamics of the trip while maintaining social distance. Kim continued to encourage guests to get to know one another and have fun.

In 2021 she looks forward to traveling more and is eager to grow as a boater and learn the technical rapids of the Middle Fork in her second season on the Salmon River.

Lisa Laughlin is a freelance writer living in Spokane. She enjoys paddleboarding, trail running, and backpacking. She wrote about hiking Beezley Hill in the Nov.-Dec. 2020 issue of Out There.

The post River Guiding in the Covid-19 Era appeared first on Out There Venture.

Millgate will follow and film the migration through multiple states and across hundreds of miles while learning about salmon and their incredible journey to complete their life cycle. The project begins at the mouth of the Columbia River in Oregon and ends at the Yankee Fork of the Salmon River in central Idaho. Video footage gathered during the 850-mile trip the salmon make will turn into a finished film plus stories for print and video media outlets nationwide in 2021.  

“From the deltas of the Pacific Coast to the vast public lands of Idaho’s backcountry, this project reveals incredible landscapes and the nearly impossible migration of Chinook salmon within those landscapes,” says Millgate, summarizing the project.  

Only a couple dozen of the native Chinook salmon at the center of Millgate’s storytelling adventure survive the annual migration and return to spawn in the Yankee Fork, however. As tiny smolts, the young fish must ride the spring runoff from the mountain waters to the Pacific. Along the way they face many challenges, including making it through or around several dams and reservoirs. Those that survive face other challenges as they grow and mature for several years out in the Pacific Ocean before turning around and making that same difficult journey back upstream to reproduce in the waters where they were born. Then, after all that, they die in their home waters, continuing their role in a complex and dynamic process as their carcasses deliver nutrients to the ecosystem.  

The choice to end her journey on the Yankee Fork of the Salmon River east of Stanley, Idaho, has personal and historical significance, says Millgate. “I had been to a spot on the Yankee Fork where there’s an old gold dredge still sitting there along the river from 70 years ago while shooting video for a film on salmon recovery. Everything we did to develop the West is on bold display right there,” she says. The Yankee Fork once supported thousands of native salmon, but the gold dredging of the river channel that took place for a little over a decade in the 1940s led to huge declines in native fish. Today, despite the habitat destruction unleashed by that five-story gold dredge, a handful of native Chinook salmon still make it back to spawn in the Yankee Fork each year. “This fish is stronger than all get out. I started thinking about the long journey those fish make to get to Idaho, and I wanted to take on a project that engages people to appreciate them.”  

While driving the thousands of miles it will take to follow the salmon as they swim upstream will be a challenge in its own right, the more difficult task ahead for Millgate is to fairly and accurately tell her story. There are heated emotions and tricky politics that surround most public dialog about the plight of Idaho’s remaining salmon. But Millgate says fish and wildlife controversies are right up her alley. “I’ve covered grizzlies, wolves, and other issues that get people fired up. As a journalist,” she says, “I’m attracted to those issues because of that dynamic.”   

She also knows she will be interviewing a wide range of people with different interests that are linked to the fate of Idaho’s salmon and steelhead one way or another. “I want to share those diverse views,” she says. “Nobody is paying me to represent a perspective, and I’m going to cover the wide range of the challenges salmon face, but the film will also focus on the different human perspectives.” Her goal with the final film is to appeal to a general audience of people who might typically be more focused on feeding their families than the plight of salmon and to get them to think about the issue and be inspired. “Just the idea of seeing the country these fish go through—it’s an incredible journey. With all the challenges they now face, it’s remarkable.”  

Millgate started planning the Ocean to Idaho project last year, but after the Coronavirus pandemic hit, she had to re-envision everything. She canceled her flights and hotels and had to rethink how she would travel. Desperate times call for creative measures, she says, and the best way for her to work solo and be self-contained was to find project sponsor partners to help her take her project literally on the road.  

Millgate found her ideal sponsors and started following the migration of Chinook salmon on June 25. She will now travel thousands of miles across the Pacific Northwest in a Toyota Tundra paired with a Four Wheel Camper, the world’s largest producer of pop-up campers. Her days consist of driving around from shoot to shoot and living out of her camper, where she also stores her gear and recharges her arsenal of batteries for her five cameras. “Living out of a camper is plenty of space for me,” she says. With the 4×4 Tundra provided by Inland Northwest Toyota Dealers, Millgate says she can get out on dirt roads away from people and to some of the remote places where she needs to film. “I can work all day, and the solar panels on the Four Wheel Camper charge everything. When I get in there at night, I turn on the lights and the fridge is on and I can pop the roof up by myself. With the top up, there’s plenty of room to stand up and move around.”  

You can follow Millgate’s adventure and the salmon migration on her social media channels this summer or from project updates, both of which can be found on the Ocean to Idaho website at www.oceantoidaho.com. Millgate stresses that her ultimate goal for the project is to increase awareness. “I hope it creates new appreciation of these fish and other wildlife and maybe inspires more people to do something to help them.”

Originally published as “Ocean to Idaho: Following the Migration of Idaho Chinook Salmon” in the July-August 2020 issue.

The post Ocean to Idaho: Following the Chinook Salmon appeared first on Out There Venture.