They each offer a concentration of trails for all levels of riders, active trail-building clubs hard at work on new trails, and mountain town or city amenities that make a multiday bike trip that much more memorable.

Hood River, Oregon

The town of Hood River sits in the transition zone where the Columbia River Gorge shifts from dripping hemlock to dry foothills, where the last stringers of wet westside weather blow themselves out on the river’s legendary gales. It’s long been known for its wind-surfing scene, but the tailgates and trailheads around Hood River tell a story about the town’s rise to fat tire fame.

In the 1990s, trail builders began constructing rogue freeride lines—massive gaps and high-wire, high-consequence wooden features in the forested hills of Post Canyon, located 10 minutes southwest of downtown Hood River. But the tracks ran afoul of the county forestry department, which manages the land for its primary economic use of timber extraction.

After a catastrophic windstorm in 2012 toppled scores of trees onto the trails and the salvage logging that followed disturbed the area even more, local builders approached the county to plead their case for new trails.

Thanks to the efforts of the Hood River Area Trail Stewards (HRATS) and its volunteers, the county acquiesced. And although the county continues to manage the area with timber top of mind, Post Canyon has weathered the storm and come out of it a stronger trail network, showcasing the trail-building transition from rocky, root-tangled tech to contemporary bench-cut jump and berm trails.

One look at Family Man Staging Area, one of the main portals to Post Canyon, shows that, although Post Canyon may have matured, there’s still plenty of high-energy riding here. Come midweek and you’re just as likely to see preschoolers on push bikes rolling out next to big senders.

The bidirectional trails, like Lower– and Upper Eight Track, are smartly laid out and rarely overwhelming to ride; riders going uphill aren’t likely to hit a wall or stall out on steep climbing turns, but beginners can build their descending skills on the return trip.

Meanwhile, expert riders can descend from the top of Upper Eight Track on Bad Motor Scooter and Upper Grand Prix, where one immaculately crafted berm after another connects massive tabletops, step-ups and step-downs.

Upper Eight Track also ties into a broader network of singletrack and motorcycle trails that honor the area’s legacy of chunky, suspension-testing tech. Now, though, the trails are legal and sustainable.

This year, HRATS has ambitious plans to give Family Man a facelift and expand Golden Eagle Bike Park and Pump Track in coordination with Hood River Parks and Recreation. It’s all part of a plan to nurture a grander transition: from beginners to lifelong bikers.

Spring is an ideal time to visit Hood River: Passing showers give the trails a regular refresh but don’t tend to be day-drenching affairs. When in town, don’t miss the legendary Dirty Fingers Bicycle Repair, a Hood River institution and an all-in-one bike shop and pub. Next door, KickStand Coffee & Kitchen will get your caffeine and calories sorted.

HRATS, informally known as the Hood RATS, build and maintain the trails at Post Canyon in addition to backcountry trail networks along the Hood River and across the Columbia, so consider making a donation after enjoying their trails.

Wenatchee, Wash.

On the sunbaked east slope of the Central Cascades, Wenatchee has developed into a shoulder-season destination for riders on both sides of the state, thanks to the hallmarks of east-slope riding: towering pines and steep, flowing descents on the sandy ridgelines that separate the Wenatchee Valley from the Cascade Crest.

In the foothills on the west side of town, #2 Canyon has transitioned from a rogue riding network to a fully sanctioned and Forest Service-supported trail system. The Central Washington chapter of Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance put the public’s pandemic-inspired desire for outdoor activity to work for them, building out miles of new, buttery-smooth trail to connect to classics like Stairway to Heaven mtb trail.

The flowing berms on New Sundance replaced a heinous fall-line climb but kept the spectacular views of Mount Stuart and the central Cascades, while The Still added a swooping, 3-mile loop that flows equally well in both directions. And Evergreen has ambitious plans for even more miles this year.

Thirty minutes west, Leavenworth Ski Hill/Freund Canyon rewards riders with immaculate flow and a bird’s eye view of the Bavarian-village vibe of Leavenworth—that is, if you can take your eyes off the sidehill gap jumps of Rosie Boa.

Methow Valley, Wash.

If you haven’t ridden the Methow (“Me-tow“), go. Now. The wildflower displays on the open sage-covered hillsides, with the snow-capped battlements of the North Cascades in the background are second to none.

First, the bad news: The catastrophic wildfires that surrounded the Methow Valley in summer 2021 decimated the Chickadee trail system at Sun Mountain, where the Methow chapter of Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance had just completed a three-year building campaign on trails such as Thompson Ridge—a trail that had opened the year prior and offered a backcountry mini-epic to the popular trail network’s forested, flowered tracks.

The good news: The Methow Valley boasts a number of other trail systems, such as the classic singletrack loop on Buck Mountain and the Rendezvous Hut network outside of Mazama. Better news: The community in the Methow Valley is resilient and has already been hard at work raising money to rehabilitate its trails, which are a pillar of the recreation economy and the community’s identity.

Support the Methow Valley’s efforts to recover by shredding, sipping and shopping in the region—and go the extra mile by donating money or muscle to Evergreen’s “Bring ‘em Back!” rebuilding campaign.

Sandpoint, Idaho

Despite being home to Schweitzer, one of the largest ski resorts in North America, Sandpoint locals and tourists alike often refer to the city on Lake Pend Oreille as a lake town that just happens to have great skiing. And although they share similar sentiments about the community’s trail offerings, Sandpoint is quietly developing into a dirt destination.

The transformation is in large part thanks to the Pend Oreille Pedalers (POP) and their work on the Syringa Trail Network on the west side of town. Syringa, which encompasses a trio of public lands and private parcels—Sherwood Forest, Pine Street Woods, and Velo Tout Terrain (VTT)—offers a healthy mix of kid-friendly rollers and expert-level tech.

And POP continues to add new trail as fast as people can ride them; this spring, they have already opened two new trails in VTT, the newest acquisition at Syringa. Zen Garden and Chaos Theory trails add intermediate- and expert-level tech to VTT’s entry-level berms and rollers.

Meanwhile, up on the mountain, Schweitzer is putting the finishing touches on three new flow trails, a beginner, intermediate and expert. With these new additions, Schweitzer adds some modern manicured lines alongside its notoriously gnarly old-school tech trails like Pinch Flat. And it’s only the beginning: Like its neighbor down by the lake, Schweitzer is building them as fast as its guests can ride them.

McCall, Idaho

Like Sandpoint, McCall is known first and foremost as a lake town. And like its North Idaho counterpart, this southwest Idaho community on the shore of Payette Lake boasts its share of excellent biking, with trails that bridge buffed-out flow to backcountry epics.

The Payette Lake Trail (PLT) aims to combine the two. Modeled after the Tahoe Rim Trail, the approximately 30-mile Payette Lake Trail will circumnavigate the mountain lake on mostly new, modern singletrack.

And, like the famed Tahoe Rim Trail, the PLT will feature near-constant views of the lake far below. So far, crews have completed the west leg, which ties in with the Payette Rim Trail, a McCall classic.

This season, Brundage Mountain Resort, in collaboration with the Central Idaho Mountain Bike Association, will build an 8.4-mile connector between the resort’s 30-mile lift-served singletrack system and the Bear Basin trails, a 15-mile network of flowy machine-built trail on Forest Service land just outside town.

Bear Basin trail system connects with the Payette Rim Trail, which means that, in seasons to come, riders will be able to drop off the top of Brundage and circumnavigate the lake, all on trail—proof that McCall is truly both a mountain biking and lake town.

Boise, Idaho

Idaho’s City of Trees is also the city of bikes. Centerpiece to Boise’s biking bona fides is the Boise Foothills trail system, which encompasses some 200 miles of tread radiating out from two-dozen trailheads across a patchwork of private and public lands only minutes from downtown.

The urban trail network has earned the city the honor of being an International Mountain Bike Association gold-level ride center, one of only seven in the world. From the trailheads, often at the end of tree-lined residential boulevards, the singletrack curls and snakes through the scalloped ridges and ravines that border Boise to the north.

Ask a local for a favorite route, and they’ll likely recommend the one closest to their driveway; they’re uniformly good. And from most of those trailheads, riders can climb some 5,000 vertical feet to Bogus Basin Bike Park. Here, amid subalpine firs, a far cry from the dry sagebrush below, riders can circle the ski hill on Around the Mountain—Idaho’s top-rated trail on Trailforks—or sample the lift-served trails that have received the input and manpower of the of the numerous pro riders that call Boise home.

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Honoring the deep community roots of the area, the Crow’s Bench is named after a row of benches outside the local watering hole in nearby Hope, Idaho, that has been a gathering place for local “crows” for a long time.

“[The name] seemed like a really good fit and in keeping with how we all are after a day on the mountain,” says Dig Chrismer, Schweitzer’s Marketing Manager. “We sit around and cackle about our day!”

Natural wood graces most of the surfaces in a classic Alpine or Scandinavian lodge style, and wide windows bring the view of the mountain to your table. The dining room seats 50 with 15 seats at the bar where birds of a feather can gather next to the grand fireplace.

The menu is inspired by a range of Alpine cuisines, including Bavarian, French, and German. “In the Alps, cultures overlap, and that’s where the inspiration is coming from,” says Chrismer. “The chef is excellent, and the options are incredible!”

The opening menu offers starters like Maultaschen forest mushroom dumplings and Charcuterie. The Elk Carpaccio is made with regional Lake County elk loin. Main courses include Roast Game Hen with a German beer glaze—and, of course, there’s Strudel for dessert.  

The twist on the Alpine theme continues with innovative drinks such as Apres Ski and Bayerische Fizz cocktails and Swiss, French, and German regional wines and beers.

Dining is by reservation only (208.255.3051), with preference given to Humbird guests.

Learn more about the Humbird hotel at Schweitzer.

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Set above the quaint town of Sandpoint, and only 80 miles from Spokane, Wash., Humbird offers a sleek updated take on the classic ski lodge with views of the mountains and nearby Lake Pend Oreille, the largest lake in the state.

“Humbird represents a real evolution in the lodging scene in North Idaho,” said Tom Chasse, president and chief executive officer of Schweitzer. “We took great care to build a beautiful hotel that will connect guests directly to the outdoor experiences they come here to enjoy. Equally important, we worked to ensure that Humbird will meet the needs of modern travelers by providing spaces where they can relax, recharge, refuel and even stay plugged in as needed.”

The three-story hotel, located in the heart of Schweitzer’s intimate village, offers 31 guestrooms with a mix of room types including single king rooms, double queen rooms and one oversized suite. Each room features an inviting window seat set against a panoramic window offering spectacular views of nearby Lake Pend Oreille.

Designed with travelers’ comfort in mind, rooms include items to aid mountain adventure such as boot dryers, locally roasted Evans Brothers Coffee and mugs hand painted by local artists. Locally produced bath amenities will offer a custom cedarwood and orange scent, formulated with aloe vera, jojoba oil, sunflower oil and avocado oil to help combat the dry winter air. Rooms also come with binoculars to take further advantage of the sweeping views.

The hotel’s design, courtesy of noted Portland, Oregon-based Skylab, is a contemporary take on the classic ski lodge that draws on the heritage of the area and connection to the natural surroundings. Built using mass timber construction, the sleek exposed wood structure conjures images of early mountain lodges with a minimal and modern feel. Inside, the hotel is decorated with historic photos sourced through a partnership with the Bonner County Historical Society & Museum as well as new artwork inspired by the surrounding lake, forest and snow.

Humbird offers ample space to relax including the Glass Room which serves as the hotel’s unique living room. Surrounded by glass on three sides, the Glass Room offers treetop views stretching across multiple states and Lake Pend Oreille. Flexible seating, perfect for relaxing or playing a game, melts into the design of the Glass Room to let the view and modern architecture shine. The Glass Room includes a foosball table and a large retractable projection screen, perfect to watch a movie or host a meeting.

Humbird hotel at Schweitzerl: Exterior rendering (top) and room interior. // Photos courtesy Schweitzer.

A third-floor rooftop deck sits atop the space with open-air views and a 12-person hot tub. Guests can also enjoy the well-equipped onsite fitness center and a heated community outdoor pool.

Located just off the lobby, Humbird’s onsite restaurant, Crow’s Bench, serves upscale Alpine-inspired cuisine. Design elements speak to the region’s lineage of outdoor recreation including globe lights hung above the bar that spell out “pray for snow” in Morse code.

Schweitzer’s Patrol Dogs, who assist Schweitzer’s Ski Patrol with daily duties, will host regular meet and greet sessions at the hotel. The Patrol Dogs will add some furry fun to Humbird’s après scene on select dates by relaxing and playing with guests on the hotel’s outdoor patio.

Phase two of Humbird, which includes a new Wellness Center and an innovative ski and gear storage system, is expected to open this summer. The new Wellness Center at Schweitzer will offer well-appointed therapy rooms for massages and spa treatments as well a tranquil relaxation room.

The facility will also offer ski storage lockers for Humbird guests on a separate floor. The tech centric ski lockers will be controlled by an app, allowing guests unfettered access to their equipment without a wait.

The hotel is named for the Humbird Lumber Company, which was the lifeblood of Sandpoint’s economy and community in the early 1900’s. More than just a place to work, Humbird Lumber Company built an all-encompassing community by attracting new residents to the area, building schools, functioning as the local store and even serving as the title sponsor of the local baseball team. The work and community attracted men, women and families who were hungry for adventure and enjoyed the outdoors, a spirit that is encapsulated in the hotel and is still pervasive among current visitors to the area. 

Humbird is part of the resort’s multi-year master plan launched in 2017. This winter, Schweitzer also debuted several on-mountain improvements including new on-mountain dining and RFID technology to make getting on the slopes easier than ever. As part of the plan, Schweitzer will also debut a number of new residential real estate options, including 5-Needles at White Pine, a 26-unit expansion to an existing base-area condominium complex that is currently sold out and expected to complete construction within the next year.  

Winter rates at Humbird start at $450. For more information, including reservations, please visit www.humbirdhotel.com.

Schweitzer open year-round for four-season recreation opportunities: Located in the rugged Selkirk Mountains of the northern Idaho panhandle, the new Humbird hotel (bottom right, artistic rendering), provides ski-in/ski-out access. // All photos courtesy Schweitzer.

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Celebrating the opening of the Velo Tout Terrain Trails (or VTT) in Dover, Idaho, this fall, Pend Oreille Pedalers (POP) are working to raise $30,000 for additional trail building.

VTT, adjacent to Pine Street Woods and part of the Syringa Trail System, is already home to three miles of beginner-friendly trails for mountain biking in the summer and groomed fat biking in the winter.

The additional funds raised will facilitate the building of two to three miles of intermediate and advanced trails. This will make VTT one of the most unique trail centers in the Inland Northwest, offering riders of all ages and abilities a progressive riding destination just minutes from Sandpoint and an easy day trip from elsewhere in the Inland Northwest.

According to Pend Oreille Pedalers’ Executive Director Jason Welker, the 100 acres of Velo Tout Terrain provide a unique template on which trails of all types are planned, from hand-built advanced lines connecting impressive granite slabs to expert-only trails through steep chutes with wood ramps and features to provide for trails the likes of which this community has never had in the Sandpoint area.

What makes VTT most special, however, is that it is a trail center built entirely with the support of the local trail community—from the 1.7-mile arterial trail, Rotarian, which was funded by the Sandpoint Rotary club, to next year’s buildout of the advanced and expert trails, which, as of mid-December 2021, has received almost $15,000 in community donations.

Their goal is to raise $30,000 by the spring of 2022, which will be added to an existing donation of $10,000 to fully fund the buildout of VTT. POP is stoked to welcome riders from out of town to come experience the Syringa Trail System.

Look them up before you arrive; there are always POP members ready to lead guests on a ride!

Find more stories about mountain biking in the OTO archives.

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Kaniksu Land Trust’s Folk School (KFS) is offering an engaging and diverse line-up of fall 2021 programming in Sandpoint, Idaho.

Kaniksu Folk School is a nature-based educational program for adults with the purpose of enriching lives and fostering an ethic of stewardship through the sharing of traditional crafts and music.

The program supports area craftspeople and artisans through paid instruction. Fall classes include making birch “shrink jars,” woven knife sheaths, art making with natural materials, spinning in the raw, and banjo workshops.

Classes take place at Pine Street Woods at the Nordic Ski Center. Learn more, and find the current course schedule, at Kaniksu.org.

Find more stories about Kaniksu Land Trust, and learn about their land conservation work, in the OTO archives.

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Splitting the difference between beachside camping and chic hotels, Twin Cedars Vacation Rentals offers a Stargazer bell tent rental that sleeps four just a step from Lake Pend Oreille’s rocky shore.

Replacing their popular tipi rentals, the bell tent (and its two-person twin just across the road) is fully furnished and fully waterproof—perfect for fall, when longer nights and later mornings require a little more stretching-out room than your pup tent.

If autumn is the grand finale to bike season, fall colors are the fireworks show. With a beachside basecamp on Hawkins Point on the north end of the lake, the birch forests of Mineral Point and Gold Hill are within easy reach, as are the huckleberry shrubs of the High Point Trail and the orange foliage of Upper and Lower Flo.

You can also put your spring and summer conditioning to work on long backcountry days on the Beetop-Roundtop or Clifty-Katka trails. The bedside coffee maker and outdoor shower with on-demand hot water take care of warming up pre- and post-ride.

The water is just as welcoming as the dirt this time of year too, made all the better by the dramatic dip in boat traffic.

It’s fairly common to have temps in the 60s and 70s well into October, and while the water temperature may not be conducive to all-day swims, it’s warm enough for a post-ride dip off the end of the dock. That’s even easier when you have a fire pit or space heater to huddle around.

Originally published as “Head to Lake Pend Oreille for Glamping and Fall Singletrack” in the September-October 2021 issue.

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Purchased by the Kaniksu Land Trust in 2015, Pine Street Woods Community Forest is a 180-acre, rolling woodland natural area that sees plenty of hikers, mountain bikers, and trail runners. The presence of the eclectic herd that includes goats, sheep, yaks, a llama, and even a Bactrian camel, on the other hand, is a temporary and relatively recent addition.

Owned by shepherd Chris Wujek, the herd is part of an effort by the Kaniksu Land Trust (KLT) to control several species of invasive plants that have spread throughout the forest’s large meadow. If left unchecked, noxious weeds can outcompete some species of native plants, reducing higher quality native food sources for wildlife.

The use of rotational grazing is an alternative to herbicides, explains KLT conservation director Regan Plumb. The use of chemical sprays would require closing the area off to the public, something that would be challenging to do, notes Plumb.

There are also concerns about the impact such chemicals can have on the natural environment, including soils, making the choice to try rotational grazing a no brainer.

While doing good work munching away at hawkweed, knapweed, oxeye daisy, and other invasive plants, Wujek’s herd has become a major attraction that’s drawing plenty of attention to KLT’s creative restoration effort.

“When the animals are out grazing, there’s a tremendous response from the community. You can walk right up and put your arms around the camel, your kids can pick up the baby goats and haul then around,” says Plumb. “We didn’t anticipate the PR value of having a shepherd on site, but it’s been pretty phenomenal.”

This is the herd’s second summer of grazing for three to four weeks at Pine Street Woods. Wujek moves his herd each day to cover the entire meadow over time, explains Plumb. He uses temporary electric fencing to keep the animals focused on the weed patch at hand and prevent overgrazing.

“It’s really intentional that we have a mixed flock of five different types of animals grazing too,” adds Plumb. “Because of that, it means one of them will eat anything.”

After eating down the weeds and other plants, the smaller hooved animals then help mix their manure into the soil, and the natural fertilizer gives the native grass and wildflower seeds that KLT then plants an added boost over the grazed down noxious weeds.

Getting rid of invasive plants at Pine Street Woods will take time, says Plumb. “We expect that 5-6 years of treatment will be necessary before we see results.”

Each grazing season helps discourage the weeds and gives grasses and other native plants a chance to compete and eventually flourish.

Kaniksu Land Trust purchased the Pine Street Woods property in 2015 from a local family that had grazed cattle and cut firewood on the property for 50 years. Pine Street Woods opened to the public in 2019 and has become a popular recreational destination for locals and visitors alike.

For directions and more information, visit Kaniksu.org/play.

For more stories about Pine Street Woods, visit the OTO archives.

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Captain Dan even comes ashore at Sandpoint City Beach. “He pulls up on the sand and takes out a treasure chest—plays pirate with children with rubber swords, and he has eye patches and bandanas for kids when they come aboard,” says his wife, Pam Mimmack, when we talked by phone while Dan was on the lake. “He’s on the beach pretty much every day all summer.”

All children are welcome, and he especially enjoys helping children with physical or sensory special needs who need a calm boating experience. Captain Dan’s voyages take kids for a ride up Sand Creek and back, with on-board water-blasters to spray passing boats, like pirates are wont to do.

“He’s a generous, loving guy—one of the kids, even though he’s 65 years old,” says Pam Mimmack. “He’s always carrying around rubber duckies to hand out to children wherever he sees them, walking down the street.”

There is no set boat ride schedule, or even ride time limit, and the reservation process is fairly informal. A parent or guardian can stop by the Mimmack’s family business Northwest Handmade Furniture & Gallery (308 North 1st Ave) any time during regular business hours, which is located a short distance from City Beach. The Mimmack’s daughter now owns the store, and Pam still works there and oversees boat reservations, she says.

You can also call the store to schedule a boat ride (208) 255-1962 or (877) 880-1962. At least one adult must accompany their children on the boat and donations are accepted.

For more stories about Lake Pend Oreille, visit the OTO archives.

Learn about other lake destinations and recreation in the 2021 Inland Northwest Lake Guide.

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Here are some of the most popular ways to play around the lake this summer.

1. Go fish.

Whether you cast a line of the dock at Pend Oreille Shores Resort, launch a boat in one of the many bays, or wade into the Clark Fork or Pack River Deltas, there is a wide diversity of catchable fish to be had in the lake. Charter a fishing guide for an even more successful day.

2. Find a campsite.

From public to private, there’s a campground for everyone. Find information and book some campsites at Recreation.gov and Fs.usda.gov. Reserve a private beach stay through Airbnb or Hipcamp. Hike or boat out to Maiden Rock, Evans Landing, or Long Beach in the Green Monarchs for a more rustic experience immersed in the simple, natural beauty and power of Pend Oreille.

3. Rent lake toys.

Sports shops, resorts, and marinas around the lake offer powerboat, pontoon, wave runners, kayak, and paddleboard rentals for a day on the water. Extend your time on the waves by renting a houseboat.

4. Ride the wind.

Sailing is a breathtaking water adventure, and it’s fascinating to watch Lake Pend Oreille Yacht Club races and cruises throughout the summer. Charter your own professional skipper through Cloud Nine Sail Charters or Dogsmile Adventures. Dogsmile also offers sailing lessons, custom sailing experiences, and their Dogsmile Race Academy next level training.

5. Take a cruise.

Take a relaxing tour or cruise and discover the nooks and crannies of the lake. Lake Pend Oreille Cruises offers eagle watching, delta cruises, interesting history, and island cruises. Get a little more private with a tour from one of two water taxis: Lake Pend Oreille Water Taxi and Tours out of Hope (208-691-3158) and Captain’s Call out of Bayview.

6. Hunt for treasure.

Shipwrecks and other fascinating treasures are hidden just below the surface. Don your own scuba gear or book a dive with Jake’s Scuba Adventures or Tom’s Diving Adventures. Or try snorkeling the shallows near docks and beaches.

7. Watch the fireworks.

The granite hills surrounding the south end of the lake make Bayview one of the best spots in North Idaho to experience a fireworks show at their annual Bayview Daze community event, typically during the weekend closest to the 4th of July.

Watch them from a boat in the bay or reserve a floating house on the expansive dock in the marina. (Airbnb or bookahouseboat.com). 

8. Play on an island.

Fisherman Island is a rustic day recreation spot managed by Idaho Fish and Game and accessible only by boat. But Warren Island near Hope is the largest on the lake and is private and exclusive—except for the Warren Island Bungalow. This 4-acre retreat is the only vacation rental on Warren and boasts private waterfront, majestic views, exquisite amenities, and “a safe, peaceful sanctuary.”

Wing foiling on Lake Pend Oreille (top left). // Photo courtesy Alan Shepherd; Dock at Sam Owen Campground on the west shore of the lake near Hope, ID (top corner right), and sunset view from the campground beach (bottom row). // Photos: Amy McCaffree; Sandpoint City Beach (top row corner left). // Photo: Shallan Knowles

For more stories about Lake Pend Oreille, visit the OTO archives.

Learn about other lake destinations and recreation in the 2021 Inland Northwest Lake Guide.

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