The spring months are a special time to visit the Silver Valley and Wallace, Idaho, with a bike or quiver of bikes in tow. Crowds are unheard of this time of year, and there are a variety of ride types with varying distances, trail and road surfaces, and elevation gain to choose from. There is snow-free riding on the paved Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, gravel routes with climbing that may require pushing or riding through snowy patches, and some scenic back-highway road rides.

The historic mining town of Wallace, Idaho, is an up-and-coming biking hub thanks to easy access to North Idaho’s two world-class biking destinations—the 73-mile Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes and 15-mile gravel-surface Route of the Hiawatha—but there are plenty of lesser-known paved and gravel routes nearby too. If you’re heading out to ride any of these trails or routes in the spring, be aware that conditions and weather can vary wildly, so plan accordingly.

Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes (paved path)

The Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes runs right through Wallace as it carves a path across the Idaho Panhandle through rolling hills of pine and fir and across wetlands. This trail is best for road or gravel bikes once the snow has melted or fat or mountain bikes when patches of snow persist. Schedule a shuttle with the Wallace Inn (208-752-1252) and make the one-way, 56-mile ride back from the town of Harrison, Idaho or have the shuttle drop you off at one of several trailheads closer to Wallace (here are some recommended ride routes). Enjoy the beautiful scenery and plan a pit-stop along the way for food and beverages (the towns of Cataldo, Enaville, and Kellogg have pubs/breweries along the trail). Keep an eye out for local wildlife such as eagles, swans, hawks, moose, or elk, especially on the sections of the trail between Harrison and Kellogg. Check out our article about wildlife viewing along the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes for more info.

Find all the info you’ll need to plan your ride on the Friends of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes website. Avid local rider and friends group president Rick Shaffer shared a few of his favorite sections of the trail. “You don’t need to do a huge section or the whole trail,” explains Shaffer. He suggests the 10-mile stretch along Lake Coeur d’Alene or the 35-mile section along the Coeur d’Alene River between Pinehurst and Harrison. “That section is like biking through a zoo. Elk, moose, deer, hundreds of birds, and there is water on both sides of the trail in some places. It’s just incredible.” Shaffer also recommends the stretch from Mullan to Osburn in the Silver Valley. “It’s downhill, in the trees, and it follows some whitewater sections along the river.” Note that there will likely be snow on the trail at least in places between Wallace and Mullan, with the snow lingering in the Mullan area at least through April (spring 2022).

Northern Pacific Trail (NorPac Trail is gravel with snow possible)

Best for fat bikes in early spring or gravel or mountain bikes in late spring, this trail runs along the old Northern Pacific rail bed and goes from Mullan, Idaho, into Montana. Start your ride in Mullan for a shorter pedal, or add some miles by starting in Wallace. The NorPac is a multi-use, 12-mile trail with multiple surfaces, including pavement, compact dirt, and gravel, but you may also encounter lingering snow and ice up higher depending on the season. There are historic kiosks scattered along the route that climbs up and over Lookout Pass. This trail is best suited for gravel or mountain bikes, but a fat bike may be the right choice for early spring rides where running into snow is likely. Find all the route info you’ll need here.

Riding the NorPac and other Wallace-area trails in the early season where riding through or on snow is a possibility is its own unique draw, says Shaffer. “The contrasts of color are the best of the year with white snow, green grasses, flowering plants, blue sky, and bright sun. It’s photographic nirvana.” Cycling through short and even semi-long patches of snow, he says, adds a bit of excitement and adventure, be it on the Nor-Pac or Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. “Patches of wet, snow, and icy trail surfaces all add to a cyclists riding experience with new elements of unsure trail surfaces. You need to maintain a balance of enough speed to blaze through a snow field but not torquing too much that you have to bail out of the saddle.”

Wallace to Burke Historic Road Ride (paved with gravel extension possible)

This relatively easy ride right out of Wallace is a great road or gravel bike ride that will take you through several small, historic mining towns on the 7-mile pedal to the once-thriving mining hub of Burke. The Friends of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alene Trail website describes this paved road route as fairly smooth with long sweeping curves light vehicle traffic. The climb is steady, gaining 1,000 feet on the way to Burke, but is gradual and not difficult. Continuing past Burke, the road turns to gravel and can be ridden on a gravel or mountain bike several thousand feet up to the top of a Cooper Pass once the snow melts away. Call the Wallace Inn and ask for Rick Shaffer for road and trail condition information (208-752-1252).

Nine-Mile Road to Dobson Pass (Paved with Loop Possibility)

Start this ride in Wallace on the Nine Mile Road (6th Street in town). This paved, maintained county road sees little vehicle traffic on the 6-mile climb to the top of Dobson Pass. Expect an 8 percent climb for 4 of its 6 miles with over 32 corners. After reaching the summit, the ride down the other side is a 12 percent grade. Make this a shorter out-and-back by turning around when you’ve had enough climbing or turn the ride into an epic loop.

The Friends of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes group describes this loop route as going over the top of Dobson Pass, turning right on the River Road at Babins Corner/Prichard, and after many miles turning left at Enaville and onto the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes back to Wallace. Locals call this ride the Enaville Triangle, Sans Burmuda. It’s a super 58-mile loop. Additional miles can be added by taking a right a right over Kings Pass to the gold mining town of Murray for some good food and beverages and then heading west on State Route 9 to Prichard and on the way to Enaville. Call Rick Shaffer at the Wallace Inn (208-752-1252) for road conditions information in early spring.

Late Spring and Early Summer Riding Options Around Wallace

Route Of The Hiawatha: With opening day typically in late May, the Route of the Hiawatha is a breathtaking gravel-surface ride that’s suitable for the whole family. This rail-to-trail path will take you over seven historic, sky-high trestles and through 10 train tunnels on a slight downhill grade the entire way. Enjoy spectacular views of the Bitterroot Mountains on this 15-mile ride that is suitable for most adults and children who are comfortable riding a mountain bike or other bicycle with good traction tires for several hours. To complete the ride, a trail pass is required. Reserve your passes in advance online.

To make the ride easier, there is a shuttle service for a small fee that will bring you and your bike back to the top of the trail after your ride is done. The route is famous for St. Paul Pass, or Taft Tunnel, which is a 1.66-mile long tunnel that goes under the Bitterroot Mountains at the state line between Idaho and Montana (bring your bike light!). You can also rent bikes and child trailers and other gear from Lookout Pass.

Lengthen your ride by beginning at Lookout Pass’ parking lot (4,730 ft. in elevation) and following the old Northern Pacific railroad grade into Montana until you reach Taft Tunnel and the start of the Hiawatha. On the NorPac, the Borax Tunnel is closed, although there’s an easy detour around it. Note though that the shuttle service does not provide service to Lookout Pass. You can also head east from the Hiawatha on the Hiawatha Olympian further into Montana for additional riding. The route of the Hiawatha is a 7-mile drive from Lookout Pass (where you can rent bikes), which is just 12 miles east of the town of Wallace. Shuttle services from Wallace or Kellogg may be arranged via the Wallace Inn.

Route of the Olympian: Technically, this ride is a continuation of the Hiawatha Trail on the old Milwaukee rail bed, though it’s totally separate from the Route of the Hiawatha. You’ll continue to ride through tunnels and over scenic trestles, following the St. Regis River. This trail is a flat trail and free to ride; however, it is not a maintained trail and some trestles are unrideable. 

Old Milwaukee Railroad Trail: Starting from Pearson and traveling 35 miles into the town of St. Maries, Idaho, this trail is great for gravel riders. Composed of compact dirt and country gravel roads, you’ll ride along the beautiful St. Joe River.

More Wallace, Idaho, Bike Riding Resources

Check the Friends of the Coeur d’Alene Trail website for current trail conditions and closures depending on the season for all of the routes covered in this article. You can also purchase Digital GPS files for most of the above-mentioned trails.

Wallace, Idaho, Lodging & Dining

In and around Wallace you’ll find modern and historic hotels, motels, B&B’s, vacation rentals, and RV parks, depending on the amenities you’re looking for. And they’re all just minutes away from downtown and recreation options, with many places to rest your head within walking distance from historic downtown Wallace’s many excellent restaurants, bars, and breweries.

Newcomers and long-time locals alike continue to build a culinary and nightlife scene in Wallace unlike any other Inland NW mountain town. When you get back to your hotel after a day playing in the mountains, get ready to wander downtown Wallace for an experience that’s part historic walking tour, full of gastronomic surprises, and includes enough breweries, wine-sipping spots, and late-night bars frequented by locals with a penchant to party that will keep you out later than you planned.

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Oliver (Ollie) Peck: age 5, skier at 49˚ North

Landon McCaffree: age 10, skier at Mt. Spokane

Kendal Brumet: age 11, skier at Lookout Pass

Libby Collins: age 12, skier at Silver Mountain

Family Winter Sports Guide sponsored by Ski the Northwest Rockies association.

Amy McCaffree has been a freelance writer for Out There since 2006, and is Out There Kids columnist and special section editor. She started skiing in 9th grade, taking lessons with her junior high Ski Club at Ski Acres at Snoqualmie Pass in the Cascade Mountains. Since winter 2003-04, she has been a season pass skier at Mt. Spokane.

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Wallace, Idaho 

Largely forgotten for over a century, the story of what may be America’s greatest ever cycling adventure could finally be getting its due, courtesy of a proposed National Buffalo Soldiers Trail. 

Back in 1897, U.S. Buffalo Soldiers, a group of all African American soldiers, were ordered to pedal 1,900 miles from Ft. Missoula to St. Louis in full uniform, through the very worst terrain and weather on 35 lb one-speed bikes. The riders packed tents, tools, rifles, and ammo with them while settling for hard tack for meals. 

Why? Back then America’s military was looking at ways to move troops faster than marching, cheaper than horses, and nimbler than trains. Both men and gear proved up to the task, averaging nearly 50 miles a day in their 41-day transcontinental trek, earning them the nickname “the Iron Riders.” 

That largely forgotten triumph has become acutely relevant today. The pandemic is coaxing millions outside and onto bicycles. Meanwhile interest in America’s historic race relations has also increased. 

In response the National Park Service, Buffalo Soldier organizations, and area tourism and outdoor recreation interests are now in the preliminary stages of getting the Iron Riders’ epic trek recognized as part of a National Buffalo Soldiers Trail.  

“The Park Service talked to us about a possible National Buffalo Soldiers Trail in June,” says Wallace Idaho Chamber of Commerce spokesperson Rick Shaffer, who is also the president of the non-profit Friends of the Coeur d’Alene Trails. “Since then we’ve been working with them and other partners to get the wheels rolling on the project,” he adds. 

The connections to Wallace are considerable. The town is a decades’ long proponent of rail trail tourism and also has strong connections with Buffalo Soldiers. Units were stationed there to quell 1890s labor unrest as well as to save the town from America’s largest ever wildland fire in 1910. 

Last year, Wallace invited Iron Rider re-enactors to cycle the Route of the Hiawatha and the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes along with special meet-and-greet events in the city. That relationship has flowered into several joint projects, including this proposed National Buffalo Soldiers Trail.   

Where will this cooperation lead? Maybe to a coast-to-coast 4,000-mile rail trail. The Rails to Trails Conservancy announced last year that its proposed Great American Rail Trail, stretching from Puget Sound to Washington D.C., was just over halfway complete. The biggest uncompleted stretches are in Montana, Wyoming, and Nebraska—nearly the same path pedaled by Buffalo Soldiers in 1897. 

“We’re hopeful the Iron Riders’ feats will inspire policy makers to complete the Great American Rail Trail,” says Shaffer. “Since Wallace would be right on that coast to coast trail, we would welcome the chance to tell the Buffalo Soldiers’ story to folks pedaling through.” 

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The Panhandle is home to one of the greatest silver regions in the world, the Coeur d’Alene Mining District in the aptly named Silver Valley of Idaho.

An equally rich bonanza of history permeates the many communities and mine sites of the district. That story is distilled perhaps to its greatest strength in the little mining town of Wallace.

Wallace is one of less than a handful of cities entirely listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It boasts four museums, multiple historical exhibits, an underground mine tour, extensive historic trail system, and walking tours of its old commercial buildings, churches, and grand homes.

A body feels like they have stepped back in time when visiting there. And it’s not just in the architecture or exhibits. It’s also in the attitude of the people. 

Since the city is so small—it has less than 1,000 residents—and corporate America hasn’t yet been able to buy up the place, Wallace still has that friendly small-town vibe.

Heritage Saved

One of the best ways to get a feel for the history of the place is to hop on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour. An open-air trolley will ferry you around the tree-lined residential areas and storied buildings of the commercial district. The driver narrates the trip all the way up to the Sierra Silver Mine. Once there, retired miners will take you through a sideways cut in the mountain for an unforgettable “that’s the way it is” look at the dangers and rewards of mining. Reservations are recommended and can be made ahead of time on their website.

For the story of the people who worked the mines and the struggles they faced, a trip to the Wallace District Mining Museum is a must. Don’t just take our word for it. This tiny museum has been featured twice on the Travel Channel’s Mystery at the Museum series. 

Among the tantalizing stories told there include the district’s bloody mining wars. That strife featured America’s largest mass arrests of civilians, hijacked trains, wild gunfights, blown up buildings, the murder of Idaho’s governor and acquittal of the assassin’s accomplices in the trial of the century. 

Want more? Find three other extraordinary museums within walking distance.  A train station, brothel and landmark church have all been converted into three separate museums featuring the region’s storied past. 

Other musts for history buffs lie on the outskirts of town. The Mine Heritage Exhibit and four-acre riverfront park are just off Exit #61 at I-90. It’s the perfect spot to park, picnic and peruse massive mining machines—including a compressor the size of barn. Nine Mile Cemetery lies just one mile north of Wallace on State Route 456, where 3,000 internees inhabit this other National Register of Historic Places Site. One mile south of town is the Pulaski Tunnel Trail. Also on the National Register, the trail traverses stream, falls and forest to mark the heroism of fire fighters in America’s largest ever wild land fire in 1910.

Heritage Lost

Finally, for the best hands-on perspective on Panhandle mining history, take a drive up Burke Canyon to the now largely abandoned mining towns of Gem, Frisco, Yellow Dog, Mace and Burke. It’s seven miles one way on the paved State Route 4. Find historic markers at the beginning, middle and end of the roadway.

These towns once were home to thousands of miners, dozens of mines, and all the support services and businesses associated therein. Now they have few permanent residents.

Once-bustling Burke in particular is haunting. Scores of abandoned buildings now stand where there were once schools, churches, government offices, ball parks, and a thriving business district.

Burke makes the case for all the efforts to preserve history down the canyon in Wallace. It is a silent witness to what a lack of treasuring one’s history yields: heritage ignored is heritage lost.  

Historic Lodging, Dining, and Shopping

Once back in Wallace, a great way to see how history is still being preserved is to visit the many businesses there. Most have images of the town’s past on their walls.  Two standouts include the local grocery store Harvest Foods with near life-size images above the aisles and Wallace Brewing Co. Its Ore Tasting room is in the old Coeur d’Alene Hardware Store, with dozens of rare images and artifacts on display. The same can be said for next door 1313 Club, Oliver’s Mercantile across the street, and, among our favorites for local memorabilia, North Idaho Trading Co. at the junction at Fifth and Bank Streets.

Sleep on history in the town’s historic lodging properties. In addition to the several vacation rental properties in historic homes, the Ryan Hotel has been in business since 1903. Its lobby is a wonderful mix of turn of the century elegance. Across the way on Cedar Street, spend the night in a former bordello—the Lux is a must for those wanting a real Wallace experience.

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