The closer we get to ski season, the stronger is the pull of a favorable forecast coinciding with free time for a turn of the pedals. Obedient to the call of good autumn weather, I recently rode out of Harrison, Idaho, up the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, greeted by e-bikers smiling ear to ear. Even the fish swimming about in the creeks along the path seemed to agree that this was a fine day to be out.

I only made it 50 miles before the call of the sleeping bag dragged me to a halt in Wallace, Idaho.

The next day promised to be as lovely as the first, and I would need all the sleep I could get if I wanted to finish the remaining 200+ miles of my intended route. There was a huckleberry milkshake with my name on it in St. Regis, Montana, and I was determined to get to it by the most interesting route I could find before milkshake season closed out. (Does milkshake season “close”?)

And “interesting” was just what I got the next morning before dawn when the route turned north from Mullan, Idaho, up the Idaho Centennial Trail.

I step-step-DRAG, step-step-DRAGGED myself up to a 6,500-foot ridge that overlooked Lookout Pass on I-90 and the ski hill next to the pass. Farther up the ridge was a breathtaking view of Upper Glidden Lake, a spot I’m definitely eyeballing for the dog days of summer in 2022.

After a quick gas station hotdog in Thompson Falls, Montana, I headed over the next mountain to St. Regis and the aforementioned milkshake. It was a comparatively gentle climb on Cadillac gravel (luxuriously smooth) up to 5,000 feet, with some rather inviting campgrounds on both sides of the mountain.

With the milkshake down the hatch, I embarked upon the Route of the Olympian, a truly delightful rail trail that is often overlooked because it lives in the shadow of the Hiawatha.

The big tunnel of the Hiawatha was closed for the season by a castle gate built to withstand an attack from an army of mountain trolls, so I took the bypass that climbs up to the elevation of Mount Spokane.

A bright and shining moon peeked over a mountainous horizon, guiding my way, though I skipped the rest of the Hiawatha on account of the lions, tigers, and bears (moose, more likely) that my imagination placed in each of the remaining tunnels. Along the highway to St. Maries, I gazed by moonlight upon all the swimming holes that my wife and I had jumped in on a much warmer ride in years gone by.

What I thought was the final push for the finish turned into a quandary about why the sun was rising in the west, ending this late season ramble a little later than I’d anticipated.

But I eventually got there. I think.

Originally published as “Shoulder Season Rambles” in the November-December 2021 issue.

Justin M. Short’s rambles will continue into the snowy months; however, he’s justifiably concerned about sub-freezing temperatures on The Big Lonely, a 350-mile bikepacking race out of Bend, Oregon, that he may or may not have finished by the time you read this.

Find more bikepacking stories in the OTO archives.

To read more of Justin M. Short’s amusing essays, visit the Everyday Cyclist column.

The post Fall Bikepacking Rambles, From Idaho to Montana appeared first on Out There Venture.

Protecting land for its own sake—for the sake of the animals and plants that rely on it, for the sake of clean water and air, and for public enjoyment now and for future generations—rarely makes sense solely from a financial perspective. Thankfully, there are private land owner conservation champions who see former working forests and ranchlands as so much more than short-term dollar signs.

James T. Slavin Conservation Area, Spokane County, WA

“It went from a love/hate relationship, to more love than hate, and then once the county took over, now I can just love it,” says Jim Slavin, Jr., as he sidesteps a pile of skunk scat in the trail and points out memorable landmarks on the 628-acre conservation area that bears his family’s name.

Jim’s father, James T. Slavin, Sr., was the son of a hops farmer in the Yakima Valley who eagerly homesteaded his first 160 acres of farmland south of Spokane in 1965. Over the subsequent decades, he added to his spread when land became available, putting in a canal to channel water to hayfields and provide grazing land for cattle.

“This was his sanctuary,” Jim Jr. says of his father, who preferred to spend the day on this land with “a dog, a gallon of water, and a bag of apples,” over time at a country club or other public setting.

The Slavins’ four children and Joanne, the matriarch of the family, got used to driving old cars with doors prone to falling off since investing in their beautiful agricultural land was Jim Sr.’s top priority.

As the kids grew up, Jim Jr. was the only member of the family to live on the property, and he has many fond memories of coming home to his family’s own 600+ acre slice of heaven during his college and early career days.

“When he was in his 70s,” Jim Jr. says about his father, “it just became a lot to manage.”

In 1998, the land went up for sale and to be sure it didn’t turn into a subdivision or mobile home park, the family worked with Spokane County to protect it as a conservation area in perpetuity.

When the county purchased the land, they returned the water to its natural state, allowing a shallow, meandering wetland to host hundreds of waterfowl, migratory birds, eagles, coyotes, deer, and the occasional elk. In addition to working to put this land into conservation status, the Slavins contributed $100,000 in an endowment to help care for and maintain the area for years to come.

A striking part of the James T. Slavin Conservation Area story is how relationships with land change over the years. “I remember bucking hay bales and thinning trees,” Jim Jr. shares. “And that was hard work.”

Now, he leads tours of young people, community organizations, and friends who want to learn about the flora and fauna, the history of the land, or just enjoy watching flocks of geese and pelicans settle in during a Spokane summer sunset.

“This place is special, and he wanted to see it protected so the community could use it,” Jim says of his father, a stalwart farmer and lover of the land to his last breath.

Slavin Conservation Area is open year-round, with interesting seasonal changes: winter (top left); spring (top right) // Photos: Amy McCaffree; summer (bottom) // Photo: Lisa Laughlin.

Cabinet View Nature Area, Sanders County, MT

“I want to save little places where nature can prevail over human destruction,” says Judy Hutchins, daughter of environmental advocate Ruth Powell Hutchins. Much of her life has been dedicated to the business of real estate, just not for the usual reasons people get into real estate.

A wildlife biologist by training, after stints in New York City and Ann Arbor, Michigan, Judy Hutchins landed in Heron, Mont., and never looked back. “It felt like coming home,” she says of her first visit to Montana from her childhood home in western Colorado.

Western Montana beavers and other wildlife have Hutchins to thank for the 76-acre Cabinet View Nature Area, which is home to a thriving spring-fed beaver complex. Throughout her life, Hutchins has purchased or otherwise worked with land in Colorado and Montana in order to put lands in conservation easements, which are legal agreements that protect private land from future development.

Hutchins’ strategy of buying land, putting those acres into conservation easements, and then reselling the real estate, has protected 10 pieces of land including wildlife corridors, wetlands, and habitat, including the Cabinet View property.

While a board member of the Kaniksu Land Trust (KLT), Hutchins helped KLT transition to a community land trust model, and when she saw the need for public places in which to educate local residents about land and water, she knew she’d found the perfect buyer for this pristine wetland.

Thanks to funding through the North American Wetlands Conservation Act and tireless work by KLT, the land was purchased in June of 2019 and opened to the public. Mindful of disturbing the animals living on the land, KLT put in a trail system and signage to encourage responsible use and enjoyment.

“Although somewhat off the beaten track,” says KLT’s conservation director Regan Plumb, “the Cabinet View Nature Area has served local junior high and high school students as an outdoor classroom for many years. The land also offers a location for quiet walks and wildlife viewing for area residents and provides high-quality habitat for diverse wildlife species.”

From extensive water-storing wetlands to healthy timber stands, wildlife habitat, and scenic trails, this property provides myriad benefits to the two-legged and four-legged (and feathered) residents of our community, says Plumb. “And it would never have been protected without the generosity and foresight of the previous landowner, who recognized many years ago that there was something very special here.”

As the natural world around us changes rapidly, “It’s comforting,” says Hutchins, “to look up at the mountains and realize they’re unchanged. Things will change, but rocks, rivers, mountains will survive.”

Hutchins’ investment in those special places, those pockets of nature, give us hope and a fighting chance for the beautiful lands and waters we all love.

Phillips Creek, Dishman Hills Conservation Area, Spokane County, WA

Hiking down a path littered with bones, where the wind howls at night, even when everything else is still, is a lure so powerful that teenagers can’t resist. This proved true for Andrew Phillips as he and childhood friends tramped around the property his grandfather homesteaded in 1904. Nights spent sleeping under the stars—or, more accurately, lying awake wondering what massive night monster was about to have dinner at his expense—helped Andrew get to know and fall in love with the Phillips Creek land in Spokane Valley.

Phillips Creek, adjacent to the Glenrose Unit of the Dishman Hills Conservation Area, with its basalt outcroppings, grassy hillsides, and overgrown orchards speaks to the agricultural history of the area, but it also tells a story of Welsh immigrants who moved to Spokane Valley to build a future for their family—a future founded on farming and ranching.

“My sons made a camping area out there,” Andrew says as he reminisces about memories made on the land throughout his youth and then as he raised his own family. Although Henry Lloyd Phillips, the second-generation owner of the Phillips Creek property, had planned to sell the land for development, he was unable to because of zoning regulations.

When Phillips passed away and the family was working to settle his estate, they decided its value as green, open space was higher than yet another housing development.

For years, neighbors had used the Phillips Creek area as if it was public and the family’s concerns over liability grew. They wanted friends and neighbors to enjoy the beautiful place as they had, but didn’t have the capacity or desire to maintain it for public use. And so they decided to work with the Dishman Hills Conservancy and Spokane County to put the 179-acre piece of land into public ownership and management in perpetuity in 2018.

“I enjoyed growing up there,” Andrew says, “and I wanted to keep it natural—to give others the chance to experience it as well.”

Like Jim Slavin, Jr., Andrew says his love/hate relationship with the family farm—loving the place but not having the time for the endless hard work—has turned only to love since he can now hike the trails, listen to the birds, and look out across the valley, knowing the land is cared for and protected forever for the good of the community.

If you or someone you know is interested in creating a lasting conservation legacy for an important piece of private land wildlife habitat here in the Inland Northwest, contact one of our region’s hard-working land trust organizations.

Originally published as “From Private To Public: Conservation Champions Protect Open Spaces From Development” in the September-October 2021 issue.

Carol Corbin lives, plays, and writes in the Inland Northwest. She also works for Inland Northwest Land Conservancy, one of many non-profit organizations working to protect natural spaces throughout the region for wildlife, clean air and water, and climate resilience.

The post Local Land Conservationists Protect Open Spaces appeared first on Out There Venture.

We asked some of our friends in the Inland NW outdoors community to share their go-to adventures in hopes that others will find some inspiration to get out there and explore someplace new this summer.

Here are 34 ideas, recommended by 15 notable outdoor enthusiasts in the Spokane region, to inspire new outdoor adventures. (OTO)

Recommended by Paul Knowles, Spokane County Parks Special Projects Manager

Cube Iron Roadless Area

Take a hike through hemlock-cloaked mountains and up to alpine pocket lakes. Located north of Thompson Falls, Mont., a few hours from the Spokane area, the trails in the Cube Iron benefit from more active trail maintenance than other areas due to the Cube Iron Cataract Coalition and its volunteers.

Hiking into Cabin Lake is great for those transitioning from day hiking to backpacking for the first time.

Recommended by Katie Wiseman, Outdoor Programs at REI

BLM Rock Creek Management (Escure Ranch)

Hike some of the lesser-travelled old roads for some solitude or stick to the popular hike or mountain bike ride to Towell Falls.

The Backcountry Horsemen and BLM have significantly improved the trailhead and parking area, which now sports toilets, water for horses, corrals, and over 13,000 acres of shrub-steppe and hiking on old, gated ranch roads.

This time of year wildflowers are in full bloom and Towell Falls is at its peak. Keep a look out for ticks and rattlesnakes, and make sure to bring water, sunscreen, and a hat as there is very little shade.

Escura Ranch (left); trail running at Antione Peak Conservation Area; Blossom Lake (lower right). // Photos: Shallan Knowles

Recommended by Lindsay Chutas, Mountaineer and Local Conservationist

Glacier Peak, Chair Peak and the Tatoosh Traverse

Accessed from the east Cascades, this backcountry route offers climbing variety and is “more adventurous than slogging up Adams or St. Helens,” adds Chutas.

Tatoosh offers beautiful views of Mt. Rainier while still being more removed from crowds of visitors. Chair Peak is an alpine climb that gives you the flavor of bigger climbs, yet it’s not too far from the road.

Because of a long hike in, Glacier Peak quickly limits the number of users to this wild and remote place.

Recommended by Alana Livingston, Wander Spokane

Mary Jane’s Farm (Moscow, Idaho)

Livingston owns Wander Spokane, a Spokane-based tour company that takes guests on food, wine, beer, and other tours covering local history, art, architecture, geology, and even medicinal plants, and when she explores, she asks the locals for their favorite hidden gems, the quirky, weird places that not everyone visits.

One of her favorites is Mary Jane’s Farm, where thoughtful, hand-made backpacking meals by the same name come from.

You can also tour the farm and starting in 2022, book a glamping site at the bed and breakfast. This destination has been featured in National Geographic and the New York Times for its whimsical, back-to-the-earth experience, and it’s right in our back yard.

Recommended by Mary Kate & Ryan Griffith, Spokane Outdoor Family

Deep Creek Canyon

A family favorite through ancient volcanic rocks and riverbed, kids can scramble over logs and rocks on a fun exploratory adventure and maybe even see a rock climber scaling the walls.

This hike is best after early spring when water in the creek has dropped, and you can explore the creek bed.

Kayaking Plese Fats to 9 Mile

Another great family adventure that’s best paddled July-September, this scenic section of flatwater on the Spokane River offers an excellent intro to paddling for kiddos.

Floating along Riverside State Park you have the possibility of seeing, osprey, deer, moose, and other forest creatures.

Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge

A hike or scenic drive around Turnbull offers a glimpse back in time to the Ice Age Floods that swept through our area and carved out this unique landscape. Take your binoculars and keep an eye out for all sorts of birds and wildlife while you tour the forests, grasslands, and wetlands.

Hiking McKenzie Conservation Area

Managed by the Spokane County Parks, Recreation and Golf Department, this forested getaway has several trails, including a short walk on an old road to Turtle Rock, with views of Newman Lake and Mount Spokane.

Camping at Mount Spokane’s Bald Knob Campground

This easy weekend getaway at Mount Spokane State Park features hiking, sunsets, and late-season huckleberry picking. The nearby trails are also popular with mountain bikers and equestrians with the cooler temperatures in the summer.

Camping at Swan Lake

Activities close to camp at the three campgrounds around the lake on Northeast Washington’s Colville National Forest include fishing, paddling, swimming, road and mountain biking, and hiking.

(Left-Right) Bridge at confluence of Deep Creek and the Spokane River; Kayaking the Spokane River. // Photo: Aaron Theisen; Bird watching at Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge. // Photo: Crystal Atamian.

Recommended by Ken Carmichael, Ponderosa Back Country Horsemen

Riverside State Park

While Carmichael is an avid equestrian, his local recommendations for summer adventure have trails for hikers and mountain bikers as well as horses and their riders. With over 9,000 acres of public land only five minutes from downtown Spokane, Riverside State Park is top on his list.

For horses, it features an equestrian campground, arena, round pen, obstacle course and 80 miles of trails. There are seven trailheads to accommodate trailers and even more for those hoping to hike, mountain bike, or just catch beautiful views of the Spokane River.

Fishtrap Recreation Area

This Bureau of Land Management-managed slice of sagebrush, grasses, and ponderosa pine provides easy access for day outings west of Spokane at I-90 exit 154.  Multiple trails and lakeshore access make this place popular for hiking, fishing, mountain biking, kayaking, and horseback riding.

Riverside State Park // Photos: Shallan Knowles

Recommended by Dave Dutro, Trail Maniacs Race Director

Post Falls Community Forest

Explore this well-developed system of signed trails for human-powered recreation, including several crags for beginning to intermediate climbers as well. This is also a great spot for a short or long trail run, a family hike, or just enjoying nature and relaxing.

Independence Creek/Coeur d’Alene River Trail

For a fun multi-day, multi-sport adventure, Dutro suggests packing your trail shoes and mountain bike and heading to Independence Creek in the Coeur d’Alene River area. The Independence Trail is a perfect summertime run, with multiple creek crossings for the chance to cool down, and several options for loops that combine trails and road running.

The next day, pedal your heart out on the Coeur d’Alene River Trail. There are excellent fishing holes and beautiful views so plan ahead to maximize this adventure.

Blossom Lakes

Near the Idaho Centennial Trail and Thompson Pass, the trail to the lake is a beautiful trail run by day and beginner backpacking adventure by night. The subalpine lakes are a beautiful summertime treat for those who make the trek.

Palouse Divide Trail System

These multi-use trails are great for mountain biking and running but are also open to ATVs on the double-track. While trail use is varied, it is also low. There is good camping nearby so you can make a weekend of it.

Clark Fork River Trail

A great trail tip for anyone headed to Quinn’s Hot Springs Resort, include a run, hike, or mountain bike ride on the Clark Fork River Trail near St. Regis. What better way to earn that end of the day soak then by breaking a sweat on the trail? The trail provides beautiful views and makes a great day outing any time of year.

Recommended by Niki Sibley, Ultramarathon Runner and Outdoor Lifestyle Advocate

Front Door Forays

“Leave the car in the driveway for this adventure. It’s easy to forget that some of the best running to be had is out your very own front door,” says Niki Sibley. “So turn your abode into an aid station and start cranking out those miles! And who knows, you just might inspire the whole neighborhood to get moving.”

Bike downtown, with your kids (Photo: Derrick Knowles, middle), and anywhere near where you live (Photo, right: Jon Jonckers).

Chris Conley, Evergreen East Mountain Bike Alliance President

Trail #257 Coeur d’ Alene Mountain

A short drive from Spokane near Beauty Bay with an easy, mostly paved 3.5-mile road climb, this mountain bike trail is easily accessible to most intermediate riders.

Drop in for a fast, fun, and flowy 3-mile descent through old growth forest on well-maintained single-track trail. There is some exposure towards the bottom, but the trail is wide and could easily be walked if necessary.

Abercrombie Mountain

Near Metaline Falls two hours north of Spokane, this epic out-and-back backcountry ride can’t be beat (it’s also an excellent hike). The 7.6-mile, 4,300′ climb can be intense, but the view from the top makes it all worth it. Pack plenty of food, water, and a jacket for the summit, even in the summer.

After taking in the views, enjoy the full descent back to the car. “With loose, technical rocks at the top to fast and flowy loam at the bottom, it’s one of my all-time favorite rides,” Conley says.

Jungle Hill Loop

Three hours from Spokane with lots of awesome camping spots, the Kettle Crest offers miles of rugged single-track trails, and this loop is a favorite of many riders. “I prefer to camp at the Jungle Hill campground and ride clockwise to Sherman Pass and finish with the Jungle Hill descent,” says Conley.

This is a big ride with plenty of punchy climbs and long, flowy descents with some of the best views around.

Recommended by Melinda DuPree, Evergreen East Board Member

Mount Hope Cemetery Road Ride

Twenty miles south of Spokane on the corner of Valley Chapel Rd. and North Kentuck Trails Rd., this picturesque country cemetery in the small community of Mt. Hope makes for a scenic road ride destination. The ride out Valley Chapel Road includes a few crossings and views along Latah Creek. The north end of the road is a stretched-out climb/descent from the valley while the southern climb/descent is steeper and includes broad views in the Palouse.

Hayden Lake Loop Ride

This 27-mile road ride departs from Honeysuckle Beach on North Idaho’s Hayden Lake for a loop around the lake on Hayden Lake Rd., English Point Rd., and Lakeview Dr. The road rolls up and down for 2,000’ of overall climbing with views of North Idaho that will give you lake-cabin envy.

Recommended by Jim O’Hare, Spokane Bicycle Club

Spokane Area Road & Paved Path Rides

Check out the SpokeFest loops choosing from the 9, 21, or 47-mile distances on the Spokane Bicycle Club’s website (Popular Rides tab).

The Fish Lake, Centennial, Children of the Sun, and Appleway trails are other great Spokane-area rides that are paved with low-to-moderate elevation gain and are mostly free of motorized traffic.

Greats views while biking along Spokane’s Centennial Trail. // Photos: Jon Jonckers

Recommended by Jane Patten, Local Artist and Mountain Biking Influencer

Glenrose to Phillips Creek Trail

This great out-and-back adventure offers views of Spokane to the west and east, including Mica Peak. This trail system offers fun, flowy single-track through meadows and pine groves and just enough elevation to get the heart pumping. An added bonus—Winescape Winery is a few blocks from the Thierman Trailhead for après ride hydration.

Recommended by Wayne Jordan, Fly Fishing & Fly-Tying Instructor

St. Joe River

Test your fly-fishing skills in this blue-ribbon cutthroat stream that flows through the scenic Idaho Panhandle National Forest. If you are looking for a little extra adventure, take the back road route via St. Regis, Mont.

Lower Grande Ronde River

Located near the tiny community of Rogersburg south of Asotin, Wash., anglers of all ages and skill levels can expect to catch smallmouth bass on the Grande Ronde River while enjoying the scenic beauty of Hells Canyon.

South Skookum Lake

This lake located in the Colville National Forest near Usk, Wash., is perfect for families looking to catch a few trout while escaping the commotion of the city for the day.

Columbia National Wildlife Refuge

Dozens of lakes and multiple species of fish are waiting for you in this Eastern Washington high desert oasis. Located just north of Othello, these waters provide a great angling day trip or multi-day adventure for the whole family.

Recommended by Dan Webber, Spokane REI Bike Technician

Themed Rides

Webber recommends making your ride more interesting with a theme. “Morning coffee crawls are a great way to support local businesses and experience new neighborhoods,” he says. “My favorite stops include Atticus, Rockwood, Rocket, and The Shop.” All of these have patio seating for sunny chats and an ability to keep an eye on your precious steed.

Some other themes could include ice cream (The Scoop, Doyle’s, and Sweet Peaks), bridges (13 of them in Spokane that cross the River), public art (murals, electrical boxes, sculptures), or, for the truly hardcore, the Spokane Stairs Ride, where you get to carry your bike up all the outdoor urban staircases!

Recommended by Mark Schneider, Rambleraven Gear Trader

Northrup Canyon

An awesome early-season hiking trip near Banks Lake, this 1.5 mile trail leads to an old homestead and another few miles takes you to Northrup Lake, a great overnight backpacking trip to shake the cobwebs off your gear for the year.

Harrison Peak Climbing

This Selkirk Mountain peak is well known for technical climbing, but you can also scramble up the east face without gear for an amazing view.

Lion’s Head

This prominent set of two Selkirk Mountain summits above Priest Lake is known for its rock-climbing routes, and Priest Lake is also beautiful.

[Feature photo by Aaron Theisen – Cube Iron Roadless Area.]

The post Adventure Inspiration: 34 Summer Trip Ideas appeared first on Out There Venture.

The short answer: more than was realistic. We’d intended to bike up over Bunker Hill, in northwest Montana’s Yaak Valley, and then continue along the Pacific Northwest Trail to Mount Henry and beyond, through some of the region’s most remote country. But after talking to the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT) thru-hiker, and listening to our screaming calves, it became clear our ambition was losing a race against daylight. The even shorter answer: “let’s keep boondoggling.”

A few years ago, I was sitting in the Yaak River Tavern—one of two competing watering holes that make up this town in the far northwest corner of Montana—when I struck up a conversation about the area’s lakes with one of the patrons. “Oh, it’s just about 20 miles of boondoggling to get there,” he helpfully replied.

It was the first time I’d heard “boondoggle” used as a verb, but it wouldn’t be the last time I’d hear that term, or a variation of it, to describe adventures around the Yaak. Perhaps it’s the thick, trackless timber—the old-growth inland rainforests of the Yaak Valley were one of the flashpoints of the infamous Timbers Wars of the 1980s. Bushwhacking and misadventure are baked into the language.

As Erin and I discovered on our exploratory biking and fishing trip to the Yaak, the riding is legit, with miles of rough, seldom-used trails accessing larch-ringed alpine lakes and loam-filled forests. I’d hiked many of the trails in the region in years past and thought they’d make excellent bike trails, thanks to dreamy soil and long, open ridgelines. Of course, holding imaginary handlebars is a lot different than the real thing.

From a base camp on a bend in the Yaak River, which was quiet even on a long holiday weekend, we’d started our exploration in the Northwest Peak Scenic Area, just south of the Canadian border—as close as us Americans were going to get to BC for the foreseeable future. Hike-a-biking across talus slopes and negotiating narrow, root-strewn sidehills, we connected old roads with short stretches of singletrack that accessed high-elevation lakes. At the first of these lakes, we encountered a couple of chatty locals hiking out with the day’s catch.

“There’s so much boondocking to be done up in these mountains,” claimed the husband. Reminded of that years-ago bar-stool conversation, I instituted it as a mantra for the weekend: do you even boondoggle?

The mantra served us well the next day on the PNT. Faint even by the standards of backcountry Montana, the trail here was more of a suggestion than singletrack, like a thumbnail pressed into an orange peel. After several hours of granny-gear grinding interspersed with hiking, we topped out on Bunker Hill. Acres of gray snags greeted us, as did the tiny lookout tower on Mount Henry well beyond our reach.

Realizing we’d never make it there and back before dark, we settled on a backup plan, shortening our loop with an exit out Fish Lakes Canyon. But we forgot all thoughts of an aborted mission on the descent, where the only thing checking our speed was the need to keep an eye out for grizzlies.

After negotiating the bramble-choked talus slopes of Fish Lakes Canyon, we arrived back in Yaak, desperate for post-ride beverages. Seeing the activity at the Dirty Shame Saloon spilling into the street, and preferring to keep our misadventures to the trail, we didn’t stick around.

The next day, rain awakened us—quite literally, as we had to jump out of the tent to unfurl the rain fly. Things had been uncommonly crispy for a region that’s essentially inland rainforest. Along with much-needed moisture came a wind storm that, as we came to find out, stacked matchsticks of timber on the trails.

That day’s ride, the last of the trip, was otherwise unusually straightforward for the area. A dozen miles west of town, an hour-long gravel grind accesses Redtop, which drops 2,000 feet in two miles and has clearly seen some bike-friendly trail maintenance. After several days of bushwhacking and bike-carrying, we relaxed into an easier riding rhythm, surfing loose duff and shouting “tree!” when the lead rider encountered a downed log.

That is, until one downed log turned into three, then four, then an entire stretch of trail buried. In the Yaak, trees define everything, from the sounds—the ghostly sigh of snags, the disconcerting creaking of leaning trees—to the soft duff of the trail and the glorious shade. They define the economy and the way neighbors, next door but miles apart geographically and maybe politically, interact.

They force you under, over, around, and sometimes well off track. They always have the final say, and sometimes what they say is: how much were you planning on riding, anyway?

Originally published as “Twenty Miles Of Boondoggling—Backcountry Mountain Biking In The Yaak Valley” in the May-June 2021 print edition.

To complement a roadtrip to Montana’s Yaak Valley, Aaron Theisen’s recommends these 5 trails on the way.

Aaron Theisen has contributed to a number of mountain bike magazines, including “Freehub,” “Mountain Flyer,” and “Dirt Rag.” He wrote about biking at Beezley Hill for the November-December 2020 issue.

For more biking stories, visit the OTO archives.

The post Backcountry Mountain Biking Montana’s Yaak Valley appeared first on Out There Venture.

Home to the University of Montana in the whole-foods-and-hiking-boots heart of the state, Missoula is a community of fit free spirits—consider it a cross between Bend and Bellingham. In recent years, the city’s running and river surfing communities have put it on the adventure-sports map, but hiking remains king here.

But full parking lots belie quiet footpaths, with dozens of miles of trails around the city dispersing trail runners and toddler-toting strollers. And its location in a miniature banana belt means that Missoula’s hiking season gets into full swing in spring, when the region’s high-country hiking opportunities still lie encased in snow. These five classic Missoula treks will introduce hikers to Missoula’s many charms.

Mount Sentinel

The large white “M” on above the University of Montana campus is the most immediately visible of the city’s landmarks, the short trail leading up to it a favorite destination for students showing visiting relatives around. But it’s merely the public face of a sprawling trail system that connects forested Pattee Canyon on the east side of town with the letter-stamped Mount Sentinel. Named after an early Bitterroot Valley settler, the Pattee Canyon trail system crisscrosses gently sloping meadows and old-growth ponderosa and larch groves. From the Crazy Canyon trailhead—one of the primary portals into Pattee Canyon–the 3.5-mile hike to Sentinel’s summit stitches together a crazy-quilt collection of spur trails and skid roads through old-growth ponderosa forest. Snags surround a wind-swept summit; bluebirds can often be spotted flitting among these gray perches. Views abound, of the forested lower reaches of Rattlesnake Recreation Area to the north and the broad granite defiles of the Bitterroot Valley to the south.

Stuart Peak

A century ago, travelers up the Rattlesnake Creek drainage north of Missoula would have found a bustling community, complete with a school, post office and hundreds of homesteaders. Today the Rattlesnake bustles with the sound of running shoes slapping gravel and mountain bikes clattering down high-speed trails.

Protected because it was the municipal water supply, the Rattlesnake drainage remained in private hands until the early 1980s, when Congress set aside 61,000 acres in the Rattlesnake drainage to foster watershed, recreation, wildlife, and education: 28,000 acres were designated a National Recreation Area; the remaining 33,000 acres were designated wilderness. Today the Rattlesnake is one of the closest Wilderness areas to a major metropolitan area in the United States.

The origin of the Rattlesnake appellation is unclear: some historical sources claim it’s in honor of a homesteader who succumbed to a rattlesnake bite in the drainage; other sources states it’s in echo of the Salish word for “rattlesnake.” Either way, hikers need not worry about snakes, which don’t live this far up the creek valley. But black bears and cougars should be top of mind; sightings of both are common.

The granddaddy of Rattlesnake hikes is the 18-mile roundtrip trek to Stuart Peak. Don’t be put off by the mileage: outside of Glacier National Park, few trails in Montana match the Rattlesnake’s penchant for pleasantly graded and buffed tread. Determined hikers and trail runners can easily do Stuart Peak as a day hike. A procession of shallow-grade switchbacks gain elevation in lazy loops like a fledgling bird; in late spring, lupine garland larch in the open, fire-prone forest. Wind-stunted whitebark pine surround the summit, a gray and granite dome that overlooks no fewer than a half-dozen lakes in the interior of the Rattlesnake Wilderness. Worthy based solely on its scenic merits, Stuart has added appeal as an exemplar of urban wilderness: where else can you find a nearly 20-mile subalpine summit hike with a trailhead accessible by city bus?

Sawmill-Curry Loop

Before the Forest Service acquired the land that now comprises the Sawmill-Curry portion of the Rattlesnake National Recreation Area in a land exchange with a private landowner in 1986, a century of ranchers and ax-swingers made their homes and livelihoods here. Connecting old timber skid roads and livestock driveways, the 6-mile Sawmill / Curry loop visits moldering homesteads and ancient orchard trees, which mingle with old-growth ponderosa pines spared the saw. It’s a hike rife with history, but there’s lots of life here, thanks to a profusion of open-forest blooms—lupine, balsamroot, buckwheat and more. Be sure to pick up a brochure at the trailhead; the seventy or so miles of trail in the Rattlesnake can bewilder newcomers, nowhere more so than this portion of the recreation area.

Mount Jumbo

A myriad of user-created paths wind toward the Loyola High School “L” on broad, grassy Mount Jumbo, which, with the “M” on University Mountain, bookends Hellgate Canyon. Balsamroot and bunchgrass blanket the broad, south-facing slope that overlooks the confluence of Rattlesnake Creek and the Clark Fork River. Speaking of rattlesnakes: although they don’t dwell in the eponymous recreation area farther up the creek, the snakes do inhabit Mount Jumbo; it’s not uncommon to encounter a rattler sunning itself in the middle of the trail come late spring. Beyond the L, hikers can continue up to copses of firs surrounding Jumbo’s flat summit, from which the views down the Bitterroot Valley are unmatched.

South O’Brien Creek

Ask an avid Missoula hiker about South O’Brien Creek, and—assuming they don’t respond with a blank stare—their reply will likely be “Is that the one with all the ceramic angels?” Yes, it is—courtesy of a homeowner with a whimsical sense of style along the gated gravel right-of-way that constitutes the first part of this 7-mile hike. But there’s no shortage of earthly delights in this drainage that abuts Blue Mountain Recreation Area on the southwest edge of Missoula. From the usually-empty trailhead, the South O’Brien Creek loop passes private property on the lush O’Brien Creek drainage before ascending sunbaked, south-facing slopes of ponderosa and wildflowers. The grassy ridges afford unobstructed views of Blue Mountain and its lookout tower to the south and Missoula and Mount Sentinel to the east. With only modest elevation gain and the option of tacking on nearly 3 miles in figure-eight fashion on the adjoining North O’Brien Creek loop, South O’Brien Creek makes for a pleasant early-season conditioner. //

The post 5 Classic Missoula, Montana Hikes appeared first on Out There Venture.