Cover photo courtesy of Spokane Riverkeepers

Last summer, the Spokane Riverkeeper tested the Spokane River for PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, also known as “forever chemicals”) as part of a national study with the Waterkeeper Alliance. They found significant hazardous levels of PFAS in the Spokane River and have pinpointed at least one likely source: land-applied biosolids.  

Land-applied biosolids refer to treated sewage sludge that is spread on land as fertilizer. Innovative upcycling, perhaps, but it is being done without testing for PFAS compounds, which accumulate in our environment. Additionally, the effectiveness of PFAS filtration at our city’s water reclamation facility, which dumps treated sewer water into the Spokane River, has not been evaluated.  

When the Spokane Riverkeeper collected water samples downstream of the Spokane Riverside Park Water Reclamation Facility, they found concentrations of four types of PFAS that exceeded the EPA’s level to safely ingest water, fish or shellfish.  

PFAS are a group of synthetic chemicals that have been used in everyday products such as waterproof rain jackets, pesticides, ski wax and firefighting foam since the 1950s. Health impacts from PFAS have been linked to cancer, liver and kidney damage, hormone disruption and more. The national Waterkeeper Alliance writes that PFAS chemicals are present in at least 45% of tap water in the United States today.  

Now that we know biosolids-linked PFAS are in our local waterways, the question becomes not how to get rid of these chemicals (they’re called “forever chemicals” for a reason), but how to stop contamination at the source. We’re looking to stem the bleeding, and the Spokane Riverkeeper is on triage. 

With movement toward federal-level rollbacks on drinking water regulations, it will be up to local organizations like the Spokane Riverkeeper, the Washington State Department of Ecology, Spokane County and the City of Spokane to call for regular PFAS testing and regulation to prevent our waterways from further mass contamination.  

The Spokane Riverkeeper will work with the Department of Health in coming months to create a consumption advisory for anglers, since eating contaminated fish is a significant way humans ingest PFAS chemicals. “Eating a single serving of contaminated freshwater fish can be the equivalent of drinking water contaminated with a high level of PFAS for a month (Barbo, et al, 2023).,” wrote Katelyn Scott, attorney and water protector of the Spokane Riverkeeper, on the organization’s online River Journal in June.  

Scott is committed to creating testing regulations for the local PFAS problem, pointing out that it is a matter of social justice when PFAS-related health issues will affect low-income and tribal subsistence fishing communities most. “When fish are no longer safe to eat, these groups bear the disproportionate burden of both health risks and the loss of access to traditional and affordable food sources,” writes Scott. 

Learn more about the issue and stay informed at Spokaneriverkeeper.com or Waterkeeper.org/pfas. You can also follow the Spokane Riverkeeper on social media. 

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By Chris Maccini 

Cover photo by Action Sports Media and courtesy of Dogsmile Adventure

On any given day this summer, you’re likely to find Jon Totten sailing the waters of Lake Pend Oreille aboard one of the boats owned by the nonprofit he started in 2021, Dogsmile Adventures. On board, you’ll find a somewhat unusual crew. It might be a group of veterans, youth with special needs, or adults with disabilities. But there’s one constant, the facial expressions that give the organization its name: wide, toothy grins like you’d see on the face of a happy puppy. A “dog smile.” And that smile is not just a side effect, it’s the whole purpose of the organization. 

Dogsmile is a “therapeutic sailing” program. Unlike other boating organizations that may be focused purely on recreation or instruction, Dogsmile’s emphasis is on creating “powerful opportunities for people to discover healing and potential through sailing adventures.” Through their partnerships with other local organizations, Totten and his small team are helping people in the Inland Northwest discover the healing power of wind and waves.  

An Inland Sailor 

Totten’s journey to founding a sailing nonprofit began when he was a student at the University of Idaho. As an undergraduate, he got involved with the school’s outdoor recreation program and fell in love with the mountains and waters of the Northwest. Soon after graduation, he landed a job 90 minutes north, helping coordinate the Outdoor Pursuits program at North Idaho College (NIC). One aspect of that job included managing a fleet of five small sailboats on NIC’s Lake Coeur d’Alene waterfront. Totten had never sailed before, but he picked it up quickly and soon discovered that sailing gave him a feeling unlike any other. 

“There was just something different about sailing that really captivated me, and it took me a long time to really put a finger on it,” Totten says. “It’s not as hard physically as climbing a mountain, but it takes immense concentration and real coordination. When I got done sailing, I just had this feeling of relief. And it just made me feel better.” 

That feeling developed into a passion that eventually led Totten to get a U.S. Coast Guard Captain’s License and find work as a sailing instructor. For years, he bounced between Washington’s San Juan Islands, Idaho, and the Caribbean, leading sailing trips, guiding on rivers, and working in campus recreation. 

Then, the COVID-19 pandemic threw a wrench into everyone’s lives. The recreation industry was particularly hard hit. At the time, Totten was living on the Caribbean island of Grenada, watching his water-based livelihood dry up. That’s when he decided to act on an idea he’d been mulling for years. 

“The longer we were down there, the bigger the boats got, the more wealthy the clientele,” Totten says. “When you’re living in a place that has so much poverty, it started to get to me. And so it was like, god, it’d be great if I could do something with more purpose, and try to use sailing to do good. But it was no more than an idea until the pandemic, when I literally had no option other than starting a business.” 

Sailing with a Purpose 

Once Totten had made up his mind to start a nonprofit, he sailed his J/105—a 35-foot racing sailboat named Dogsmile—from Grenada to Florida, and then had it shipped to North Idaho. He cashed out his retirement account from his time at North Idaho College and launched a GoFundMe campaign to raise the startup capital to launch his dream of a therapeutic sailing program. 

Totten was an experienced sailor, and he’d seen firsthand how impactful sailing could be, but he had no experience running a nonprofit. For help, he turned to an industry that has been providing experiential therapy for decades. “The people who had the most influence on me are the equine therapy folks,” Totten says. “What they’ve done with people and horses is what I want to do with people and sailboats.”  

Totten connected with leaders of equine therapy programs and learned everything he could from them. He even borrowed their templates for his website and 501(c)3 nonprofit application. By the summer of 2021, Totten was ready to officially launch Dogsmile Adventures. 

Therapeutic Partnerships 

Totten’s approach—again borrowed from equine therapy—was to partner with existing service organizations to bring his new idea to people who could benefit. His first partner in the summer of 2021 was a program based in Coeur d’Alene called Specialized Needs Recreation (SNS), which coordinates recreation and socialization opportunities for children and adults with special needs.  

“Initially I was like, okay, let’s go on a boat ride. We’ll see how this goes,” says SNS Executive Director Lindsay Patterson. “But instantly what I observed with a variety of our participants is an overwhelming sense of calmness and peace that literally takes over their whole being the second they step on the boat. It’s like nothing I’ve seen when they participate in any other activity.”  

Sailing has since become the top-requested summer activity for SNS participants. Meanwhile, Totten has gone on to partner with several other area organizations, including those that work with veterans, individuals with ALS, college students, and underserved youth. He’s also expanded his fleet, adding two smaller sailboats alongside the original Dogsmile. With each outing, Totten—along with a small staff and volunteers—is able to tailor the sailing experience to each group’s needs and abilities. It’s an approach that Lindsay and SNS especially appreciate.  “He’ll find a very specific, targeted task that he needs help with,” she says. “Maybe it’s just stacking the life jackets in the cabin, or maybe it’s holding onto a rope that really doesn’t do anything. But sure enough, they feel like they’ve really contributed to the experience.” 

This summer, Totten is hoping to create new partnerships and get more people on the water. He also offers private sailboat charters for tourists and other visitors—which in turn helps subsidize the therapeutic sailing trips. You can learn more about Dogsmile Adventures or book your own sailing voyage at dogsmileadventures.org. 

Chris Maccini is a writer and audio producer based in Spokane. This summer, you can find him hiking the trails of the Northwest with is dog, Hank. 

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Kids will love Treasure Island and the splash pad. The park is open all summer through Labor Day Weekend. 

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Explore this desert lake east of Spokane on a paddleboard or kayak with a self-guided tour of popular shoreline sites and hidden inlets.

Launch from Blue Heron Park or Connelly Park and cruise along the lake shore keeping an eye out for birds and other wildlife. Both parks also offer shoreline fishing access, or you can try your luck from your paddle craft casting for bass, trout or panfish. 

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Public sessions are available most weekends and daily during peak summer. First-timers can take advantage of the “Learn to Surf” package. Beyond the wave, enjoy Surfside Tacos, Twocan Jenny’s Surf Bar, sand volleyball, panoramic views and the adjacent Slidewaters water park.  

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This stretch of the Columbia River in Lincoln County is your answer to hot summer days. Paddle a kayak from Fort Spokane to Hawk Creek, where basalt cliffs rise over secluded coves perfect for a midday swim.

Cast for walleye or smallmouth bass near Seven Bays, or launch your boat from Two Rivers Resort and find your own quiet spot to cast a line, take a dip or listen to the water lapping at your hull. Camping at Porcupine Bay will extend your time exploring the waters of this massive eastern Washington lake. 

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Washington State Parks’ Recreational Boating Safety Program is bringing back its popular paddle safety initiative for young people this summer. The program invites youth ages 11-18 to learn essential water safety skills through hands-on instruction both on the water and on shore. Participants will receive comprehensive training in paddle safety fundamentals, water competency and teamwork in small group settings of 15-20 students. Each participant will receive a complimentary life jacket and four hours of instruction, including two hours of on-water paddle training with experienced instructors. 

The program aims to build confidence and safety awareness among young paddlers while fostering an appreciation for water recreation. Classes will be held at the 9-Mile Recreation Area from July 22-24, 2025. Space is limited, and advance registration is recommended. For more information or to register, email boating@parks.wa.gov or visit the Washington State Parks website for program details. (OTO) 

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Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho’s largest and deepest lake, serves as a stunning natural centerpiece for the Sandpoint area, with summer offering up an abundance of opportunities to explore its waters, trails, and shorelines. Whether you’re paddling quiet backwaters, cruising beneath mountain ridgelines, or hiking to panoramic lake vistas, there’s no shortage of ways to go deep into the heart of North Idaho’s outdoor scene around Sandpoint.

Swimming Spots on Lake Pend Oreille

Sandpoint City Beach sits just steps from downtown and remains one of the top spots for swimming and relaxing by the water. Sandy beaches, wide grassy lawns, and amenities like tennis, volleyball, and basketball courts, horseshoe pits, and a kid’s playground make it a go-to summer gathering place. A boat launch and adjacent marinas add convenience for boaters, and the whole park is easily accessible on foot or by bike.

Other great swimming locations include Sam Owen Campground on the Hope Peninsula, which features inviting shoreline and easy lake access. For those willing to drive farther south, Farragut State Park offers clear water, spacious beaches, and plenty of amenities, including shoreline fishing and boating access.

Top Paddling Spots around Sandpoint

Flat-water paddling on Lake Pend Oreille offers a peaceful way to explore the lake’s many coves and inlets. Launch from Sam Owen Campground to explore nearby Warren, Cottage, and Pearl islands. Nature lovers can head to the Pack River and Clark Fork deltas, where calm, wildlife-rich backwaters provide a chance to spot birds and other wildlife in a more secluded setting.

Sand Creek, which flows gently into the lake near downtown Sandpoint, offers a sheltered paddle route ideal for beginners. You can launch directly from City Beach or other nearby access points and paddle a scenic mile upstream through quiet waters under bridges and past marinas.

Lake Pend Oreille Boating

Lake Pend Oreille is a boating paradise, with multiple public boat launches and marinas available for those with boats to get out on the water. Boat rentals are available in both Sandpoint and Hope, including pontoons, jet skis, and other boats for cruising the lake. Multiple outfitters offer hourly and daily rentals, as well as lessons, guided lake tours, and private charters. Check out all of the rental, tour and outfitter resources at the bottom of this article.

For a one-of-a-kind way to get out on the water, Lake Pend Oreille Cruises offers 90-minute narrated outings aboard the Shawnodese, a classic lake tour boat. Options include history tours, eagle watching, and sunset trips, with departures from City Beach and seasonally from Hope. Dogsmile Adventures provides sailing experiences out of Sandpoint and Bayview for those looking for a more hands-on boating experience.

Walks & Hikes to Beaches and Lake Views on Lake Pend Oreille

The Pend d’Oreille Bay Trail offers an easy and scenic walk along the lakeshore just minutes from downtown Sandpoint. For more of a challenge and pristine experience, head to Lost Lake and Mineral Point near Garfield Bay. The network of trails there includes an easier loop around Lost Lake as well as the more challenging Mineral Point Trail, with big lake views and access to a swimming beach at Green Bay.

Farther afield, Farragut State Park near the lake’s southern end provides over nine miles of trails for hiking and mountain biking, along with disc golf, a swimming beach, and a well-equipped campground.

For a short but steep hike to a more secluded lake access point, the Maiden Rock Trail south of Garfield Bay winds down through forested terrain to a cobblestone beach with primitive campsites and picnic areas.

Those looking for a more rigorous alpine trek can head up the Scotchman Peak Trail. With over 3,700 feet of elevation gain, the trail climbs to the highest point in Bonner County. The summit rewards with sweeping views of Lake Pend Oreille and, if you’re lucky, a sighting of the resident mountain goats.

Lake Pend Oreille Marinas, Rentals & Tours

Dover Bay Marina and Resort
Located in the heart of the Dover Bay waterfront community, this full-service marina offers seasonal boat moorage, covered slips, a boat launch, 24-hour fuel, dockside power and water, restrooms, showers, and a market. With 274 slips and deep-water access, it’s a convenient base for lake adventures.

Sandpoint Marine & Motorsports
This outfitter in downtown Sandpoint offers a wide range of rentals, from ski boats and pontoon boats to jet skis and kayaks. Options are available by the hour, half-day, or full day, making it easy to tailor your lake time to your schedule.

Action Water Sports
Operating in both Sandpoint and Hope, Action Water Sports rents pontoon and ski boats, jet skis, paddleboards, and kayaks. They also offer lake tours and lessons, which can be helpful for beginners or families looking for a guided experience.

A Day on the Lake Rentals
With a full-service rental fleet that includes ski boats, pontoons, Sea-Doos, and vacation homes, A Day on the Lake Rentals provides delivery service and flexible options for families or larger groups looking to explore the lake in comfort.

Go Fish! Charters
This Sandpoint-based outfitter offers hands-on fishing trips on Lake Pend Oreille and the Clark Fork River, targeting multiple species in varied settings. They run custom trips year-round, including sunrise and sunset outings.

Long Drift Outfitters
For fly fishing and float trips on the Kootenai River, Long Drift Outfitters leads guided adventures through a scenic, canyon-carved stretch of river. With limited access by land, the float-only sections provide solitude and the chance for a more remote experience.

Sandpoint Seaplane
Offering scenic flights over Lake Pend Oreille and surrounding mountain ranges, Sandpoint Seaplane gives you a bird’s-eye view of North Idaho. With an experienced pilot and decades of flying time, this unique experience combines adventure with perspective.

Bottle Bay Resort and Marina
Tucked away on a quieter arm of the lake, Bottle Bay Resort offers cabin rentals with a private beach, a marina with public gas, and a boat launch. Their on-site bar and grill provides a relaxing spot to unwind after a day on the water.

Plan Your Perfect Summer Getaway to Lake Pend Oreille and Sandpoint

Whether you’re paddling Sand Creek, diving in at City Beach, or climbing to a high ridge for sweeping lake views, Lake Pend Oreille delivers a North Idaho summer experience that’s as deep and varied as the lake itself. From downtown Sandpoint to the remote shoreline coves and alpine peaks, it’s a place worth exploring on water and on foot. Combine days on the lake with Sandpoint’s vaunted culinary and entertainment opportunities for a weekend or multi-day visit; discover those, plus an array of lodging choices, at VisitSandpoint.com.

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Slidewaters caters to all ages and thrill levels, from the gentle curves of Bonzai Pipeline to the wild twists of Sidewinder. The Downhill Racer allows you and your kids to race to the finish side-by-side. For those under 48 inches tall, the Aqua Zoo is a safe and fun water play area, and the zero-depth beach zone features a 150-gallon tipping bucket and spray features. Families can spend some quality time together floating the Lazy River, which gives you a chance to check out those views again. Adjacent to Slidewaters, Lakeside Surf is home to the world’s largest stationary surf wave, where adults and kids ages 10 and up can give surfing this magical wave a try (surf session pass required).

Slidewaters makes lunch or snack time easy at the River Run Grill that serves a variety of kid-friendly options. There are plenty of hangout areas in and out of the sun too, and you can rent private cabanas to have your own shaded retreat and basecamp for the day. Slidewaters operates from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day and offers discounted rates for children under 48 inches and free entry for kids three and under. A family trip to Slidewaters may end up being the most memorable adventure you have together this summer. Start planning your getaway at Slidewaters.com.

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